442 questions

Doc Joe

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Just went to the range with my new 442. I put 50 rounds through it. Shooting was uncomfortable but bearable. But I was thinking that perhaps replacing the grip would help. Any suggestions?

Also I was going to remove the side plate to get rid of internal locks, but the screws are so tight that I can't budge them. Is there a secret to getting the screws out the first time?
 
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don't mess with the sideplate unless you have the proper screwdriver and you know what you are doing.

You can get larger grips that might help with shooting, but at the sacrifice of concealing the gun.
 
I'd strongly recommend investing in a set of laser grips for the little beast. Also, a very firm grip will help immensely. I have LaserMax grips on my J frames. They're far from perfect, but I wouldn't imagine trying to use my J frames without them. Also, I don't know what kind of load you're shooting, but I'd suggest 148gr. mid-range wadcutters for both practise, and they aren't shabby as an anti-personnel round, either

Best of luck,

Dave
 
Shoot it more and more and more before you start changing grips ( or anything else). You will find that you will "adapt" to the gun. In my case it takes me about 300 to 500 rounds within a 30 day time frame to "properly" adapt to a gun (any gun).
Laser grips are great for dry fire trigger control practise.
 
J frames talk a lot of practice to shoot well.

I am a big fan of hideout grips. If things don't improve, google them. Precision Gun Specialties.
 
I would agree with shooting it more to get use to it before changing anything. J frames are not easy to shoot well. Find some "light" loads to work with first.
 
I agree with much of the above. Don't mess with the side plate until you have the correct tools, and maybe even not then. I have two S&W revolvers, purchased eight and three years ago, and I intend that my grandsons be the first to remove the side plates. Get a set of Crimson Trace grips. Just as grips, they are AT LEAST as good as what the factory provided -- my 686+ -- and often much better -- my Browning Hi- Power and (more to the point) my S&W 637 snubby. There are those who disagree with me but as far as I am concerned, Airweights kick like mules. After twenty rounds of RANGE LOADS, I am done.

Cordially, Jack
 
Hi guys, my first post and on one of the best pistols out there. The 442 is not exactly the gun of choice for an afternoon at the range. the twist is sharp, especially with boot grips. Carried alot, shot a little, sums it up. Larger stocks make it easier to shoot, but then why bother with a small hideout gun if you negate the size with handfilling grips? Live with the kick and be thankful that it will always go boom.
 
Uncle Mike's three finger rubber combat grips are the most comfortable for me. I use them at the range and often use them when I carry a 642 AIWB.

Just about any three finger grip will be more comfortable.

Use light loads and practice, practice, practice! Practice point shooting on silhouette targets if your range will let you.
 
Like Photoman44 I use uncle Mike's Combat Grips. You can get a good grip on them and they cover the backstrap. They don't make them any more but S&W has something similar on their website. I also use service grips with a Tyler T grip,good for concealing.
 
I have a 442 and the load I am shooting is the 158 Hornady @ 800 fps.

I find that quite comfortable to shoot and I am confident that the load will suit it's intended purpose.

There are grips available that will give a little better hold on the gun without hampering the concealability significently.

EDIT::
I got my 631 .32 Mg out and switched grips with the 442, just to show what the result looks like.... They seem to fit OK, but I would rather have a set that Hogue says will fit the 442....I'm pickey that way.
2010_0409442grips0001.jpg


2010_0409442grips0002.jpg


2010_0409442grips0003-1.jpg
 
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my favorite J frame grip

for many years. Spegel checkered boot grips. They do kick some, and twist more but I can easily go thru a box at the range. I just wear a golf glove. It works well and in a real use situation I doubt I'll worry about recoil. The Nyclads are nice standard pressure loads but I also shoot the GDHPs and 158 lead +P.

IMG_0541-1.jpg
 
My 442 has had Eagle Grips Secret Service grips for many years -- yeh -- It's a handfull but I've learned to love them -- I've carried it every day since I bought it
 
Uncle Mike's three finger rubber combat grips are the most comfortable for me.

Same here. They're not pretty, and they're harder to conceal than boot grips, but I've never found any J-frame grip more comfortable than these:

4h1kqrc.jpg
 
DC7, that's the same kinda grips my 940 came with (when purchased new).
 
FWIW: J frame grips

The first thing I look at with any J frame is "What hurts?" Is it drawing blood anywhere? I have big hands and the cylinder release, even the new ones, will often draw blood. If that's the case, different grips usually won't help. Time to take a little metal off the lower edge of the release.

Is the revolver bruising or cutting the web of your hand? That may well be a function of the grips. You may need something to spread the recoil out over a little more area. Also, just a little bit of sloppy fitting in the area that contacts the web can make things darned uncomfortable. If the grips are a little proud or have a bit of a gap between the top of the grip and the back strap, the web of your hand can suffer. Since Smith went to rubber service grips, I've seen some that fit quite well and some it seems were forced on the frame.

Does you wrist or elbow give you fits after a range session? This is probably a function of recoil (and maybe age) and different grips may not have much effect. A change in ammunition, as noted by other posters, may help. I don't carry WCs, but I know a couple of guys with a lot of mileage on them who do. In any event, training with reduced recoil ammunition is not wasted, even if you carry stouter stuff.

Laser grips? Good idea. They are larger than say, Magnas and a T-grip, and may not work in some pockets or in ankle holsters (depends on how your trousers are cut). To me, the thing to remember with laser grips is this: you are now training with TWO sighting systems. You need to train in different conditions so that you can choose the correct system for the situation without having to stop and think about it. This means more rounds down range, not less.(Think you will always be able to see that laser? Get you a cheap Hawaiian shirt or maybe a cool red and green Caribbean patch shirt and lay it out in your backyard on a nice bright day. See how long it takes you to find that little red dot. Then think about how long a second or two really is when all the chips are on the table. People have said that the green lasers mitigate this problem, but I've never tried one.)

Since I'm apparently on my soap box, I'll throw in one more consideration. If you must have two hands to have a reasonable chance of making a good hit at typical defense ranges (for me that means 10 yards of less), you have an issue that needs to be addressed. You just can't assume you will have two hands available to control the gun. My feeling is that your grips, training, and sighting system all have to work together to give you a reasonable hit probability when shooting with one hand. This applies in spades to j frames, because they are little, they don't weigh much, and they will jump around on you.

Like I said, "for what it's worth."

Charles
 
Same here. They're not pretty, and they're harder to conceal than boot grips, but I've never found any J-frame grip more comfortable than these:

4h1kqrc.jpg

+1!!

I found a set of these grips on Ebay for my 442 a few months back. Wow! I never thought that one single item could make such a big difference on a gun! Now it feels like I'm shooting a "full size" gun, but it still fits in my pocket like the J frame that it is!
 

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