.45 Auto Rim

Either works fine, just make sure it's minimal - enough to keep the bullet in place under recoil and no more.

I've gotten slightly better accuracy using a Redding Taper Crimp die vs. a roll crimp, but roll crimp is okay if you already have one.
 
45 ar

i use a roll crimp on all revolver cartridges, and i load for the auto rim 45.
 
with a 200 grain SWC and 4 grains of Bullseye going out of a 1955/45, I have used a taper crip and had no issues.
 
I too use a taper crimp on most of my 45AR loads. Since your 200gr L-SWC bullet (cast or swaged?) likely doesn't have a cannelure anyway & you're probably using a fast or moderate speed powder, taper crimp should be fine, especially if it's swaged.

Really don't need a roll crimp unless you have a jump crimp problem or are using slow powder.

My hot loads using Sierra 240gr JHP get a roll crimp.

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I use a roll crimp on 45AR. Just shot a good buck yesterday with my 5-inch Model 625-2, using a 250-grain lead "Keith" bullet with near-maximum powder charge. Hi-Viz front sight. Dropped on the spot.

I have RCBS roll crimp die....I'll post the part number later IF I can remember.
 
I used to think a roll crimp on either Auto Rim or .45 Auto cases was minimally more accurate in my revolvers, but not so sure now......I am convinced that I'm a second or two quicker dropping rounds with roll-crimps from either moon clips or speed loaders into my cylinder than I am with taper-crimped loads..... For this reason only, I apply roll crimps to the rounds I intend to use in timed competition.
 
I load for .45 Auto Rim. type of crimp depends on the bullet you are using. If it has a crimping groove or cannelure, then a roll crimp is appropriate. If you are using a .45 ACP-style bullet, then a taper crimp is correct.

Since the 200 LSWC is an ACP style bullet, use a taper crimp if available.
 
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