I sent my 586 no dash in to the performance center for an action job, and the "M" fix on forcing cone. They came back with the barrel needs to be replaced because it's jammed or something. So I said do it. Got it back and I'm wondering about the small gap on top where the barrel meets the frame on the sighting area and to the right and left. Doesn't look real bad, but none of my 15 or 16 revolvers from the 1950s to ones made 6 years ago have any gap. I can get up to about a .010" feeler gage in there, but it only goes in a 1/16 or so. I don't know if it is typical or just normal. Any others have new barrels from the factory on older revolvers with similar, or is there a normal range for the gap? Thanks.
586 barrel to frame gap
- Thread starter Pequod
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The M fix was for the hammer nose bushing I had understood. Any additional information for the need to replace the barrel?
Unsure about the gap - my only suggestion might be the differences in tolerances with new/old parts and engineering changes.
Smith barrels have a slight boss at the root of barrel threads to keep the underlug from swiping the frame on assembly. I've never seen one beyond three maybe four thousandths thick however. Possibly a max tolerance stacking of your frame/barrel combination?
I'd sure hate to lose the original classic elegant barrel rollmarks for the newer billboard markings.
Unsure about the gap - my only suggestion might be the differences in tolerances with new/old parts and engineering changes.
Smith barrels have a slight boss at the root of barrel threads to keep the underlug from swiping the frame on assembly. I've never seen one beyond three maybe four thousandths thick however. Possibly a max tolerance stacking of your frame/barrel combination?
I'd sure hate to lose the original classic elegant barrel rollmarks for the newer billboard markings.
Rlg#17
US Veteran
M recall on no dash and early -1 had nothing to do with a fix to the forcing cone. It was a replacement of the hammer nose, and hammer nose bushing , and fitment of those items.
The picture is kinda dark, and from the picture doesn't seem too bad. Any GOOD pistolsmith should have the tools and knowledge to make it flush if you have to have it that way.
Regards, Rick Gibbs
The picture is kinda dark, and from the picture doesn't seem too bad. Any GOOD pistolsmith should have the tools and knowledge to make it flush if you have to have it that way.
Regards, Rick Gibbs
OP
Probably fine I'm thinking.
I looked again at my other revolvers and I have a 686+ 5" barrel TALO edition that has almost the same gap, really not that noticeable at all. I was focused on the barrel fit because I was surprised when the PC contacted me and said barrel needed to be replaced in the first place, gun was very tight and did not seem to have been shot a lot. I have had it for 5 or 6 years, bought from a forum member. There work at the PC has been good the few times I have sent revolvers in but the communication is not the best.
I looked again at my other revolvers and I have a 686+ 5" barrel TALO edition that has almost the same gap, really not that noticeable at all. I was focused on the barrel fit because I was surprised when the PC contacted me and said barrel needed to be replaced in the first place, gun was very tight and did not seem to have been shot a lot. I have had it for 5 or 6 years, bought from a forum member. There work at the PC has been good the few times I have sent revolvers in but the communication is not the best.
