I recently picked up this 586 from an older gentleman who purchased it new in 1983. It came to me complete with box,papers,and unopened tools. Gent said he took it out to the range twice and has been stored since. So I believe that this 586 came from the factory like this. The sideplate has a definite difference as you can see in the pictures. The bluing on the barrel and underlug has different colors from dark blue to a milky blue. I noticed this upon inspection, but the $500.00 asking price could not be passed. Have any of you ever seen a factory job such as this? What could have happened and how did it make it out of the factory like this?
586 factory finish quality
- Thread starter nvkframe
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iPac
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I seen a Python with a side plate a lot like that. The only time I have ever seen something like that.
I could only figure a defect in the steel used for the side plate. Must have caused artifacts in it that polishing couldn't remove. Never understood why a company would still use it though.
At least yours was only $500. The Python I saw was listed for $2999. I think they ended up selling it 'in-store' for a loss, but most likely still got close to $2500 for it. Some people just like to pay up.
As for the rest of your gun, I don't see anything wrong with the bluing. Looks normal from your pics.
I could only figure a defect in the steel used for the side plate. Must have caused artifacts in it that polishing couldn't remove. Never understood why a company would still use it though.
At least yours was only $500. The Python I saw was listed for $2999. I think they ended up selling it 'in-store' for a loss, but most likely still got close to $2500 for it. Some people just like to pay up.
As for the rest of your gun, I don't see anything wrong with the bluing. Looks normal from your pics.
Last edited:
scooter123
Member
Wipe the finish down with a cotton rag or patch soaked with WD-40 and let it soak in for a day. The wipe the revolver dry and apply some pure carnuba wax {the kind with ZERO polishing abrasives) or Renaissance Wax, let it dry and wipe off any residue. I'll bet you a quarter that doing this will make the finish look much more even.
Because I suspect that what you have is a "dry" finish. Bluing on a revolver is actually a Black Oxide finish and they way this finish protects a surface is because it's sort of a microscopic lattice that holds oil. This means that these finishes actually need to be oiled to act as a rust preventative and when WD-40 was developed it was actually called Water Displacing Oil Formula # 40. Basically it's an oil originally developed under a government contract to be used as a rust preventative. As such it's a rather poor lubricant but excellent for preventing rust with a black oxide finish. Note, NEVER EVER use WD-40 as a lubricant for tapping or drilling steel, doing that will ruin the cutting edge of hte tools very quickly. A far better choice for a cutting oil if you don't have any Tap Magic on hand is plain old motor oil.
Because I suspect that what you have is a "dry" finish. Bluing on a revolver is actually a Black Oxide finish and they way this finish protects a surface is because it's sort of a microscopic lattice that holds oil. This means that these finishes actually need to be oiled to act as a rust preventative and when WD-40 was developed it was actually called Water Displacing Oil Formula # 40. Basically it's an oil originally developed under a government contract to be used as a rust preventative. As such it's a rather poor lubricant but excellent for preventing rust with a black oxide finish. Note, NEVER EVER use WD-40 as a lubricant for tapping or drilling steel, doing that will ruin the cutting edge of hte tools very quickly. A far better choice for a cutting oil if you don't have any Tap Magic on hand is plain old motor oil.
MetalMan
Member
nvkframe,
I used to own an "L" Frame 586 that I bought around '83. It was manufactured after S&W was sold, to a British outfit, I believe. As politely as I can convey this, that was the worst piece of junk I've ever owned. Keep in mind that it was a duty weapon that I had carried on duty as a sworn cop. It had to go back to the factory twice. Once, during a training session, the cylinder froze rendering the gun useless. Back to the factory it had gone. I finally gave it to a friend. I even paid about a hundred bucks to have it UPS'd to my friend's state's FFL. BTW, he lived on a farm & he wanted a handgun for pests. I did tell him to not rely upon it for self-defense.
This was not an isolated malfunction. Many guns S&W manufactured during that era were of poor quality. Many Model 15's had serious flaws that rendered them useless.
Thank God, S&W was purchased by an outfit that's dedicated to quality. Lickety-split, S&W was back in business of manufacturing some of the best guns in the world. I merely bought my 586 at the wrong time. But it did leave me with a bad feeling that I can't shake. I know that "L" Frames manufactured after the sale to the great-gun-making version of S&W are excellent. It's just one of those bad experiences that I can't shake. BTW, the 5904, manufactured by the good S&W version was one of the most reliable firearms I've ever fired.
I have only admiration for older and newer S&W guns. It was just that one dark period of S&W's history that I wish hadn't existed. BTW, if I remember correctly, the FBI returned to S&W a huge order of guns it had bought during the dark period.
My point is you might want to contact S&W to see if your gun needs to be returned to correct its design flaw. If you give customer service your gun's serial number, the clerk will tell you whether your gun has to be returned. If I remember correctly, S&W will pay all costs, and shipping a handgun is expensive.
I call S&W's history from light-to-dark-to-light.
BTW, I hope your 586 is not one of the guns has has to be returned. If it is, my advice is to return it. Otherwise it might fail when you need it to not fail.
Best of luck to you,
P-229.
I used to own an "L" Frame 586 that I bought around '83. It was manufactured after S&W was sold, to a British outfit, I believe. As politely as I can convey this, that was the worst piece of junk I've ever owned. Keep in mind that it was a duty weapon that I had carried on duty as a sworn cop. It had to go back to the factory twice. Once, during a training session, the cylinder froze rendering the gun useless. Back to the factory it had gone. I finally gave it to a friend. I even paid about a hundred bucks to have it UPS'd to my friend's state's FFL. BTW, he lived on a farm & he wanted a handgun for pests. I did tell him to not rely upon it for self-defense.
This was not an isolated malfunction. Many guns S&W manufactured during that era were of poor quality. Many Model 15's had serious flaws that rendered them useless.
Thank God, S&W was purchased by an outfit that's dedicated to quality. Lickety-split, S&W was back in business of manufacturing some of the best guns in the world. I merely bought my 586 at the wrong time. But it did leave me with a bad feeling that I can't shake. I know that "L" Frames manufactured after the sale to the great-gun-making version of S&W are excellent. It's just one of those bad experiences that I can't shake. BTW, the 5904, manufactured by the good S&W version was one of the most reliable firearms I've ever fired.
I have only admiration for older and newer S&W guns. It was just that one dark period of S&W's history that I wish hadn't existed. BTW, if I remember correctly, the FBI returned to S&W a huge order of guns it had bought during the dark period.
My point is you might want to contact S&W to see if your gun needs to be returned to correct its design flaw. If you give customer service your gun's serial number, the clerk will tell you whether your gun has to be returned. If I remember correctly, S&W will pay all costs, and shipping a handgun is expensive.
I call S&W's history from light-to-dark-to-light.
BTW, I hope your 586 is not one of the guns has has to be returned. If it is, my advice is to return it. Otherwise it might fail when you need it to not fail.
Best of luck to you,
P-229.
Engine49guy
Member
1980's S&W's are probably the products low point for blueing,
If your gun doesnt have an "M" stamped in the yoke its eligible for a free factory inspection and hammer nose bushing mod.
Do some research first as I wouldnt send mine in unless it needed a tuneup or locks up using your preferred brand of ammo.
Do a search as there are plenty of threads discussing the M Mod and hammer nose bushing issue.
If your gun doesnt have an "M" stamped in the yoke its eligible for a free factory inspection and hammer nose bushing mod.
Do some research first as I wouldnt send mine in unless it needed a tuneup or locks up using your preferred brand of ammo.
Do a search as there are plenty of threads discussing the M Mod and hammer nose bushing issue.
