5906 trigger work

[btolliverjr]

I just bought a brand new 5906 this past weekend. With it being brand new, the trigger isn't "broken in" yet. I have successfully detail stripped it and reassembled it. That part is no problem. Does anyone have any good information on which parts/areas need to be lightly polished to get a smoother/crisper breaking trigger?

 

[TAC]

Before doing that, I would recommend putting a couple hundred rounds through it, and you might be surprised how nice it will become!

 

[btolliverjr]

even after a few hundred rounds, it still won't be as good as a trigger job...will it?

 

[TAC]

even after a few hundred rounds, it still won't be as good as a trigger job...will it?

Yes, and no. Two things will happen. You'll build up a little strength and control in your trigger finger, and yes, it will smooth out. You may find at that point you're more than satisfied with the trigger. If not, you can always do it later.

Too often a trigger job will make the gun less safe as a defense pistol, and sometimes make the pistol less reliable under extreme conditions such as cold weather, dirt, and limp wristing under stress.

 

[btolliverjr]

good points, but this will not be used for a defensive pistol. Mainly only a range gun. I have a M&P 9c and a G30SF for cc.

 

[handgunner356]

Your TDA trigger will always feel quite a bit differant than the "safe action" triggers like on M&Ps, Glocks or XDs'. Without getting into stoning the hammer and sear one thing I've found that works easy to improve the trigger is a lighter hammer spring. I usually go with a 17# hammer spring and switch to a pound or two heavier recoil spring.

 

[tpd223]

I always found that they smoothed out rather nicely after about a thousand dry fires.

 

[5906fan]

stoneing the edges of the trigger spring rod will likely help the da pull a bit. cutting off a coil or 2 will lighten it up but at risk of ftfires.

 

[btolliverjr]

where do I need to stone/polish to smooth out the SA trigger pull. I am mainly looking for a more crisp break.

 

[CALREB]

Hello BT, my suggestion is like someone else said, shoot the gun 500 or so times,put a snapcap in it and dry fire 2-3 double action presses then 5-6 single action presses, so you dont train you trigger finger to d?a mode only. Just a word of advise if you have to ask where to stone a trigger/hammer/sear, you probably shouldnt do it,and whatever you do dont cut the spring, shoot it as is , save your money and send it to the performance center for a trigger job, would be my recomendation. Good luck, Bob

 

[CALREB]

Hello BT, my suggestion is like someone else said, shoot the gun 500 or so times,put a snapcap in it and dry fire 2-3 double action presses then 5-6 single action presses, so you dont train you trigger finger to da mode only. Just a word of advise if you have to ask where to stone a trigger/hammer/sear, you probably shouldnt do it,and whatever you do dont cut the spring, shoot it as is , save your money and send it to the performance center for a trigger job, would be my recomendation. Good luck, Bob

 

[WR Moore]

At this hour, I shouldn't try to quote the factory manual, but, IIRC, the single action factory specification is 4 to 6 lbs. May be 4 1/2-6lbs.

DO NOT try to stone the hammer hooks, they are not configured like a 1911. Deburring the trigger, trigger bar and sides of the hammer & sear will produce a smoother pull. As will polishing the inside of the mainspring (hammer spring) cup.

Removing tool marks from the sear surface and polishing it really requires a jig.

As the previous poster notes, the S&W Performance Center does good work and it maintains the warranty.