6.5" 38/44 from 1940
- Thread starter Reddog
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Not sure abt the drill bit but you have one hell of a nice gun there. Larry
Dick:
Thank you for sharing you Outdoorsman ! If you are willing I would very much appreciate its serial number for my files (offline). I am trying to locate as many of the pre-war and post-war transitional models as possible. Do you happen to have a factory letter for your gun?
Best Regards,
Jerry
[email protected]
Thank you for sharing you Outdoorsman ! If you are willing I would very much appreciate its serial number for my files (offline). I am trying to locate as many of the pre-war and post-war transitional models as possible. Do you happen to have a factory letter for your gun?
Best Regards,
Jerry
[email protected]
Alk8944
US Veteran
Yes a pin can be made from drill rod or a drill. Shaping the spherical ends so it looks right is the most difficult part. Correct size for the barrel pin is #50. Barrel pins are not hardened. Pin making is the absolutely most basic of all gunsmithing operations.
OP
Reddog
Absent Comrade
Thank you, Larry!
Jerry, e-mail sent! No letter, yet. Maybe later.
Alk, Would you have a pin you would sell me, or tell me how to make one of a softer material?
Dick
Jerry, e-mail sent! No letter, yet. Maybe later.
Alk, Would you have a pin you would sell me, or tell me how to make one of a softer material?
Dick
The shank of drill bits is softer than the fluted section thereby making perfect barrel pins. Anything softer mashes over when they are driven in and out.
I found it easy to round the ends by chucking them in a drill press, a drill motor held in a vise or in a hand held Dremmel tool. Once you have the pin spinning, rough shape it with a fine file and then fine grit paper backed up by an eraser. You can end up with 2000 grit paper to polish it or spin them in the drill motor or Dremel tool against a rotating buffing wheel with white ( for stainless steel) rouge. Blue the ends after installation.
I found it easy to round the ends by chucking them in a drill press, a drill motor held in a vise or in a hand held Dremmel tool. Once you have the pin spinning, rough shape it with a fine file and then fine grit paper backed up by an eraser. You can end up with 2000 grit paper to polish it or spin them in the drill motor or Dremel tool against a rotating buffing wheel with white ( for stainless steel) rouge. Blue the ends after installation.
OP
Reddog
Absent Comrade
Hondo,
Thanks for that info! Will the bit take cold blue?
Dick
Thanks for that info! Will the bit take cold blue?
Dick
I don't have anything to add to the excellent info you have received about pin manufacture, but I do want to express my appreciation for that fine OD.
I am becoming very fond of any commercial specimen on any frame shipped in 1939 or 1940. There just weren't that many of them as the Great Depression droned on and the company began tooling up for military production for the Brits. There seem to be a few more K frame revolvers than I or N.
I am becoming very fond of any commercial specimen on any frame shipped in 1939 or 1940. There just weren't that many of them as the Great Depression droned on and the company began tooling up for military production for the Brits. There seem to be a few more K frame revolvers than I or N.
OP
Reddog
Absent Comrade
Thank you, David W.!
I always appreciate your comments. The Outdoorsman is all done except the pin. If I have a #50 bit on hand, I'll get that done this afternoon. Stay tuned for pictures!
Thanks to everyone for the help!
Dick
I always appreciate your comments. The Outdoorsman is all done except the pin. If I have a #50 bit on hand, I'll get that done this afternoon. Stay tuned for pictures!
Thanks to everyone for the help!
Dick
Tyrod
Member
How ironic. Flip the drill bit over to make the correct size hole then chop the shank off to make the pin.
OP
Reddog
Absent Comrade
Well, my luck!
I have a 49, but no 50! I'll have to get one the first chance I can get to town! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, everyone!
Dick
I have a 49, but no 50! I'll have to get one the first chance I can get to town! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, everyone!
Dick
OP
Reddog
Absent Comrade
Update
Well, Boys!
Haven't been able to find a # 50 drill bit, what with the holidays and all, so I mounted a #49 bit in my electric drill and ground it down a little at a time with a flat file, until it would start in the pin hole. then I scored it with the corner of the file and broke it off with pliers. Afterwards, I filed the ends to a nice round shape and tapped it back into the pin hole.
The next step was to shoot it! It was too cold today to set up for target shooting so I just shot five rounds off the back porch into the woodpile. It has a fine trigger at 2.5 lbs! Should be a real fine shooter when I get a chance to put it on paper! The only thing I've found not to like so far is the tiny sights. I guess that just shows how much things improved between 1940 and now! I definately like the modern sights better. The adjustment screws are so small on this gun that It will probably require a tiny screwdriver like ones used to work on eye glasses. I imagine they'd be pretty easy to screw up!
The stocks are Herrett's Shooting Stars. I have a pair on my 5" Mod. 27 and do like them. I have a set of stocks like the originals except without the diamonds. I wonder what it would cost to make a left stock like the original right stock that came with the gun?
Targets soon!
Dick
Well, Boys!
Haven't been able to find a # 50 drill bit, what with the holidays and all, so I mounted a #49 bit in my electric drill and ground it down a little at a time with a flat file, until it would start in the pin hole. then I scored it with the corner of the file and broke it off with pliers. Afterwards, I filed the ends to a nice round shape and tapped it back into the pin hole.
The next step was to shoot it! It was too cold today to set up for target shooting so I just shot five rounds off the back porch into the woodpile. It has a fine trigger at 2.5 lbs! Should be a real fine shooter when I get a chance to put it on paper! The only thing I've found not to like so far is the tiny sights. I guess that just shows how much things improved between 1940 and now! I definately like the modern sights better. The adjustment screws are so small on this gun that It will probably require a tiny screwdriver like ones used to work on eye glasses. I imagine they'd be pretty easy to screw up!
The stocks are Herrett's Shooting Stars. I have a pair on my 5" Mod. 27 and do like them. I have a set of stocks like the originals except without the diamonds. I wonder what it would cost to make a left stock like the original right stock that came with the gun?
Targets soon!
Dick
Attachments
Sounds like you got her all fixed up. The new Micro click sights were definitely an improvement. Those little tiny sight screws tend to work loose and get lost. But I think the sewing machine screwdriver is a great solution, especially with the original SATs for that model selling at close to $1000!
Remember to let us know how it shoots on paper. Keep your tiny screw driver with you and make sure the sight screws are tight every so often. Mine is a nice shooter and I'm sure yours is also. I have a real nice set of Herret's like your's that I'd sell for 35.00 shipped. Don't use them. Larry
OP
Reddog
Absent Comrade
Sight Adjustment Tool, which is what S&W called these things. They really shouldn't be considered general purpose screwdrivers.
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Beautiful gun.
Is the right stock panel numbered (possibly faintly, in pencil) to the gun? If so, you can find a replacement left panel, but perhaps not an exact match in color or grain. Pre-war Magnas will be pricey.
If you are interested, this one looks to be a good candidate for a factory historical letter, which will also confirm the type of stocks with which it shipped if yours are not numbered. I think the front sight is the Call or flat bead type (or the McGivern, I can keep the two straight in my head for about 15 seconds at a time)
. Enjoy!
Is the right stock panel numbered (possibly faintly, in pencil) to the gun? If so, you can find a replacement left panel, but perhaps not an exact match in color or grain. Pre-war Magnas will be pricey.
If you are interested, this one looks to be a good candidate for a factory historical letter, which will also confirm the type of stocks with which it shipped if yours are not numbered. I think the front sight is the Call or flat bead type (or the McGivern, I can keep the two straight in my head for about 15 seconds at a time)
. Enjoy!
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OP
Reddog
Absent Comrade
Larry, I sent a PM on your Herrett's. I'd like to have them.
David, thanks for explaining SATs to me! Aren't they the opposing screws? They are set pretty tight. If it prints anywhere on an 8.5" X 11" target I may not even try to adjust them.
Alan, The right stock is numbered to the gun. I'd like to find a mate for it! The insert in the sight appears to be flat silver or something similar.
It's supposed to be in the high 40's today so maybe I'll get a chance to shoot a couple targets!
Dick
David, thanks for explaining SATs to me! Aren't they the opposing screws? They are set pretty tight. If it prints anywhere on an 8.5" X 11" target I may not even try to adjust them.
Alan, The right stock is numbered to the gun. I'd like to find a mate for it! The insert in the sight appears to be flat silver or something similar.
It's supposed to be in the high 40's today so maybe I'll get a chance to shoot a couple targets!
Dick
Dick,
Thank goodness the gun had the panel with the serial # on it!
Keith Brown is a renowned Smith grip maker/restorer. I'm sure he can match your grip. He's done work for my son and his work is stunning! Not cheap but then you only need half of a pair. You can also find an original single panel for sale on occasion.
