686 Mountain Gun question

[M66 3"]

How do I remove the cylinder from the crane arm?

Meaning, the correct screw/bit etc on the screw, check.

The ejector rod has the knurled end that doesn't clear the hole.

I mean, I don't always take the cylinder off for cleaning, but on all my other modern guns, the ejector rod slides out.

Any advice?

 

[The Norseman]

I was wondering that myself. As usual the
Owner's Manual (Smith & Wesson Safety
& Instructional Manual) is too generic.

I to sometimes like to clean with the
cylinder off.

I'll keep watching hopefully for an answer.

Good question!

 

[The Norseman]

Topic title; New S&W 686 M.G., How do you
get the Cylinder off the Yoke?

I was looking at mine just now out in the
garage where there's a lot of sun light.

It appears the knurled knob on the front of
the ejector rod is a screwed on nut. With the
assistance of a flashlight there appears to
be a minute space between the knurling and
rod.

I haven't tried unscrewing anything yet
because all is good now. So when the time
comes to remove the Cylinder I hope that's
it.

The Best to you and your Endeavors.

 

[SLT223]

Unscrew the ejector rod. There are proper clamps for this as opposed to pliers.

 

[racer19j]

Right hand or left hand threads?

 

[SLT223]

Left hand. I just did mine. You need to work the knob at the end not the rod. The rod on the ball dent guns is smaller diameter than original design. I just found out the old clamp tools will grab the knob but not the rod.

 

[The Norseman]

So the Knurled Knob is not screwed on?

To remove the Cylinder one has to unscrew
the actual rod then? Curious; how hard was
it to unscrew the ejector rod?

Would this wrench work with these plastic
synthetic jaw adapters?

Thank in advance.

 

[686PC]

So the Knurled Knob is not screwed on?

To remove the Cylinder one has to unscrew
the actual rod then? Curious; how hard was
it to unscrew the ejector rod?

Would this wrench work with these plastic
synthetic jaw adapters?

Thank in advance.

View attachment 790112

I wouldn't use any set of pliers even with synthetic jaw adapters for that job.

I like to use the Power Custom Universal Extractor Rod Wrench available at Brownells. Even if the diameter of the new 686 Mountain gun is smaller than the J frame extractor rod (the smaller hole in the tool), you can easily shimmy a piece of leather to make us the extra space if necessary.

The Power Custom tool will allow more control when unscrewing the extractor. (Or you can probably manufacture something similar if you are able to.):

POWER CUSTOM UNIVERSAL EXTRACTOR ROD WRENCH

Check out POWER CUSTOM UNIVERSAL EXTRACTOR ROD WRENCH available Online at Brownells Today and many more Action & Frame Tools products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.

www.brownells.com

The important thing to do is to use blanks on a few chambers when unscrewing the extractor.

Cheers,
686PC

 

[Neumann]

The extractor rod has a left hand thread, and is very fragile. There are special tools, not all that expensive, to grip the extractor without crushing it. Insert empty cases in the cylinder to prevent strain on the extractor star pins.

BROWNELLS EXTRACTOR ROD TOOL FOR S&W

Check out BROWNELLS EXTRACTOR ROD TOOL FOR S&W available Online at Brownells Today and many more Action & Frame Tools products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.

www.brownells.com

 

[SLT223]

NORSEMAN,
I was saying to unscrew the knob, NOT the rod. The knob unscrews left hand thread. If using pliers, pad the jaws so you don't mar the knurling. It was pretty tight.

You can see the removed knob in the black tool in the picture is posted.

 

[SLT223]

The extractor rod has a left hand thread, and is very fragile. There are special tools, not all that expensive, to grip the extractor without crushing it. Insert empty cases in the cylinder to prevent strain on the extractor star pins.

BROWNELLS EXTRACTOR ROD TOOL FOR S&W

Check out BROWNELLS EXTRACTOR ROD TOOL FOR S&W available Online at Brownells Today and many more Action & Frame Tools products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.

www.brownells.com

This is what I used above, incase anyone was wondering.

 

[The Norseman]

Thank you SLT223 and Neumann and
686PC for all the great information.

I just mic'd that knurled knob on the front of
the ejector rod (now we know it's a knurled
headed screw). Left head threaded too.

Knurled screw mic'd .2185-.219 dia.
Which .2188 = 7/32 drill bit.

I'm thinking….

 

[The Norseman]

Nothing was scratched or harmed. Well a
7/32" is 5.56mm….so I got out a .223 shell.
It slipped over my 7/32" drill bit with some
slop. with ordinary pliers, crushed down
nicely on to the drill bit.

Slipped the 223 over the knurled headed
screw, with 38spl shells in place, and care-
fully tried to loosen the screw. Well with a
little effort, the whole Ejector Rod came
loose.

 

[The Norseman]

So I disassembled all, carefully cleaned all,
and very lightly lubed all. Much smoother
turning Cylinder now.

Assembly, I put springs back how I found
them, made sure all was aligned, worked
smooth, and slipped all back together.

Note: when Ejector Rod is unscrewed, Rod
will not slip off Yoke.

Learned something and all is good now.