60-15 Broken trigger mounting stud

[mykeal]

I removed the side plate on my Model 60-15 to inspect for cleaning and it wouldn't go back on; the stud that mounts the trigger would not engage the hole in the side plate; all other parts seemed to be located properly. I removed the trigger and found that the stud it was mounted on had broken off flush with the mounting surface. I should say the gun operated normally prior to disassembly for cleaning.

I sought the advice of a professional gunsmith I know well, and he said it needed to be returned to Smith & Wesson for repair. I've contacted them and they've emailed me to expect a prepaid shipping label in the next 5-7 business days.

Question 1: can this be repaired, and how is it done?

Question 2: I had lighter springs installed and really liked the trigger control with them installed - will Smith & Wesson return the gun with those springs installed or will they replace them with factory springs?

 

[Pef]

When it rains, it pours. I have had two S&W's break like this. One was a 642 (Trigger pin) and the other was a 640 (hammer pin).

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...94-revolver-3-now-going-back-sw-warranty.html

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...pivot-pin-broken-but-works-going-back-sw.html


If it is under warranty, S&W will just replace the revolver. S&W replaced my 642, and I just sent my 640 off today. I am quite sure they will replace it. Once the stud shears off, it cannot be reattached.


It can possibly be repaired by counter-boring where the stud sheared off (IF the break is clean) and fitting a steel pin. But that is work that is far beyond any amateur gunsmith, that's for sure.

You probably do it right I am sure, but it is very important that sideplates be removed according to the procedure in Kuhnhausen's shop manual, Book I (gently tapping along the strike line of the bottom part of the frame).

Also it is a good idea to NOT work the revolver innards when the side plate is off, as it puts a lot of shearing stress on the pins.

Both of mine broke during normal use, which is quite odd.


As for the spring kit - I would swap back in your originals. SW will likely "pull another off the line" for the replacement gun if they decide to replace. When I got my 642 back, it was an entirely new gun - nothing was "reused."

You can keep the factory grips though, they won't reuse those when replacing.

 

[mykeal]

Thanks for the reply, Pef.

I'm pretty sure it's not under warranty; I bought it used, and it's 10 years old. I have K's book, and I've always had it out and open when doing anything beyond simple exterior cleaning; I did follow his procedure in this case, including removing the trigger.

And yes, it's pretty obvious this repair is way beyond an amateur; my local gunsmith is very competent, experienced and professional with a very well equipped shop, and he wouldn't attempt a repair. So, off it went, or rather will go when the return label appears.

 

[Fastbolt]

I remember in my S&W revolver armorer class, when the instructor was warning us about inattention and any improper disassembly/reassembly that might result in damage to a frame stud.

He said that as long as the frame isn't damaged, the company would probably be able to replace the stud (and it might only cost us approx $135).

A damaged frame would be more expensive (unless it was determined to be a warranty issue).

An aluminum alloy frame could complicate matters, since a steel frame is less easily damaged than an aluminum frame.

 

[mykeal]

Thanks, Fastbolt.

There doesn't appear to be any frame damage; its a steel frame.

 

[mykeal]

Received the gun back from S&W today, completely repaired and refurbished for no charge. I sent them the gun per their instructions, and they had said they'd get back to me with an estimate of costs if the repair wasn't under warranty; I never heard a thing, and the gun arrived via FedEx this afternoon. Box contained a repair order but no bill. My springs were in fact replaced with factory springs, so I'll need to redo that. Looks like many of the internal parts are new. I have no idea how they repaired the broken stud - it looks brand new, but the frame sure looks like the original. The serial number is the same. Anyway, kudos to S&W for their customer service.

 

[chief38]

I have replaced them myself in the past. In order to NOT have to refinish the gun (one was blue and the other stainless) a somewhat less than perfect Factory look has to be acceptable to you. This is because the stud can not be taken down PERFECTLY flush after being pressed into the frame. A good caliper goes a long way in sizing stud.

The one I did on a M60 no dash actually came out good enough that most would not realize it has been replaced. The M36 came out acceptable but again, not Factory. STILL I'd sacrifice that any day over a new gun - even if mine were under Warranty (which they weren't). The repair jobs have lasted over 20 years so far and there have been no issues.

 

[Fastbolt]

Glad to hear your experience. Not surprising.

If you have reason to remove the trigger & cylinder stop ever again, be a bit cautious to avoid exerting improper pressure & leverage against the trigger pin. Not saying you did, but it can easier to damage a stud without meaning to, at times. Some folks can end up damaging the rebound slide spring stud, too.

Even as a S&W revolver armorer, I try to avoid excessive (or at least unnecessary) frame disassembly.

While I did let a more experienced revolver armorer try some reduced power rebound springs in my first 642-1 Airweight when I first received it, I soon discovered there was a real advantage in returning to the factory spring. Once I'd 'rebooted' my DA revolver skills (after changing from issued revolvers to pistols for several years), I discovered a couple of things.

First, the "heavy DAO" trigger of my 642 wasn't really that heavy, after all.

Second, once I'd become acclimated to the DAO revolver trigger press for fast, accurate shot strings once again, I found my trigger finger was frequently out-running the trigger's return when doing fast-paced drills. Not a good thing when in the midst of fast action drills.

I returned the factory rebound spring to the 642, and everything was fine. Fast, brisk and positive trigger recovery tyhat easily kept pace with my trigger finger.

Just a thought.

A fun revolver kept for a range leisure/target enjoyment gun is one thing, but a revolver dedicated to a defensive role? Having that brisk & positive trigger recovery is a good thing ... and the admittedly "heavy" factory spring also helps to keep things working normally if the gun is unexpectedly exposed to sudden contamination/fouling, too.

 

[mykeal]

You make a very good point about the factory springs. The lighter spring was installed by a friend shortly after I had acquired this gun and it's essentially the only one I'd used; I was very pleased with it and practiced frequently. I have not experienced the problems you related with a lighter spring as yet. I'm going to work with this factory setup for a while to see if I can become accustomed to it on the basis of your advice. This is a CC/SD gun.

 

[Ofc.JL]

The pivot pin has a head on it like a nail, only thicker. The frame has a same shape divot cut into the frame, but not thru(and some pins are drilled thru, mounted and ground and polished off.). The frame is jigged up and after the old stud head is removed and the divot is cleaned, then the new stud head is placed into the divot under pressure and the metal around the pin head is stacked/ swedged up tight. Presto, new stud pin! But I think S&W can do this only once. After that, IIRC, the frame is done, and only recourse is replacement.