617 erosion question

[Tranquility]

Hi,
This is my first time on this forum. I have a recently purchased a brand new model 617 rim fire. I love the weapon and I am getting fairly accurate with it While cleaning it today, I noticed a crusty buildup at the top of the frame opening adjacent to the back side of the barrel. I have put fewer that 500 rounds through this revolver. The crust did not seem willing to be removed with solvent and scrubbing. There is also a sort of linear line of this crust just above the back end of the barrel. It appears to be coming from the discharge of the cartridges.
Is this normal? If not normal how do I prevent it from getting worse? Any thoughts on how to clean up the small mess I have?

Thanks,
Bill C
Connecticut

 

[arjay]

It's lead,a tool like a dental pick will work for removing it.

 

[snubbiefan]

What your are describing is carbon build-up. A good solvent and elbow grease....then cleaning more often to prevent the build-up.It's going to happen and some ammo is dirtier than others.

 

[ralph7]

I use a single edged razor blade, but whatever you use, remember that the scratches will be there forever unless you sand them off.
be careful and try not to scratch the metal.

 

[snubbiefan]

I agree....it's a combination of lead and other fouling contaminants that naturally land in that spot, carbon being one of them.

 

[DS-10-SPEED]

When you do a lot of shooting this is normal, I usually let it soak a few minutes with solvent, Rem Oil or WD-40 then I use a small flat blade screwdriver to push it off. Just have to be careful not to scratch something.

 

[Tranquility]

Thanks for your thoughts on this issue. I will get after this tomorrow and will take care not to scratch the surfaces.
I appreciate the help.
Thanks,
Bill in CT

 

[k22fan]

Welcome to the forum tranquility;

While I have resorted to using a razor blade to remove the normal lead & fouling build up from the bottom of my 617s' top straps, I leave that for a last resort. Creative tools made of softer metal than steel can be substituted for the razor blade to eliminate the risk of scratching. We had a bunch of them in a thread a while ago including flattened brass cases and scraps of brass shim stock.

Most if not all of the crude can first be removed with bronze wool. I like fine bronze wool available from Brownell's, yacht stores near marinas and True Value Hardware. If your local True Value doesn't have it on their shelf it is in their chain's warehouse. I have a few little scraps of walnut whittled to chisel ends to press the bronze wool in along the sides of the rear end of the barrel. I wrap bronze wool around the cone shaped end of a stub of pencil to clean .22 forcing cones. A small slot whittled down the length of the pencil's sharpened end keeps the bronze wool rotating with the pencil.

The beauty of stainless revolvers in my eyes is not their rust resistance but how easily they can be cleaned with bronze wool without thinning delicate blueing. 617s are my favorite guns. I hope you find this helpful maintaining yours.

 

[TSQUARED]

Tranquility,
When you have shot another 20,000 or 30,000 rounds through it it will still have some of that buildup from carbon and lead. I use Hoppes#9 and what does not come off stays there. So far I have more than 20,000 rounds through my 617.

 

[Nightowl]

I use a bronze brush and brush the topstrap at the rear of the barrel. What I cannot get that way stays! That goes for all my guns.

 

[jspick]

This is a different point of view, but I don't clean it unless it affects the function of my gun. More damage can be done to a gun from over cleaning than a lifetime of shooting, especially a 22LR. A Stainless gun has no finish problems to deal with, so why clean it. I just wipe it down and put it away.

John

 

[MichiganScott]

I use a brass scraper that I've made from a rifle cartridge case. No worry about scratching anything.

 

[k22fan]

This is a different point of view, but I don't clean it unless it affects the function of my gun. More damage can be done to a gun from over cleaning than a lifetime of shooting, especially a 22LR. A Stainless gun has no finish problems to deal with, so why clean it. I just wipe it down and put it away.

John

Well that works with .22 rifles that are only stored in a warm dry house away from salt water. When I shot 4 position indoor 50 foot .22 rifle we never fired our first shot for record without first fouling the bore other wise the first shot would land ¼ to 3/8 inch off missing the ten ring. Most of us did not clean our bore from the start of the league in fall until it ended in the spring.
However, I shoot DA and every .22 revolver I've owned would start to drag the fouling on the front of its cylinder against the fouling on the back of the barrel after 75 to 150 shots. You might not notice that if you only thumb cock but firing indoor bullseye leagues DA is hard enough without irregular resistance in the DA pull. Left uncleaned eventually the .22 cartridge heads would drag on the fouling on the recoil shield. Also, .22 cartridges need to be pressed fully into the chamber or mainspring energy will be dissipated seating them possibly contributing to missfires. It is easier to fully seat cartridges into clean chambers.
I believe a lifetime of cleaning stainless guns with brass wool, brass bore and tooth brushes will not degrade the gun in the slightest. Besides, pride of ownership is enough reason to clean our S&Ws.

 

[jspick]

Well that works with .22 rifles that are only stored in a warm dry house away from salt water. When I shot 4 position indoor 50 foot .22 rifle we never fired our first shot for record without first fouling the bore other wise the first shot would land ¼ to 3/8 inch off missing the ten ring. Most of us did not clean our bore from the start of the league in fall until it ended in the spring.
However, I shoot DA and every .22 revolver I've owned would start to drag the fouling on the front of its cylinder against the fouling on the back of the barrel after 75 to 150 shots. You might not notice that if you only thumb cock but firing indoor bullseye leagues DA is hard enough without irregular resistance in the DA pull. Left uncleaned eventually the .22 cartridge heads would drag on the fouling on the recoil shield. Also, .22 cartridges need to be pressed fully into the chamber or mainspring energy will be dissipated seating them possibly contributing to missfires. It is easier to fully seat cartridges into clean chambers.
I believe a lifetime of cleaning stainless guns with brass wool, brass bore and tooth brushes will not degrade the gun in the slightest. Besides, pride of ownership is enough reason to clean our S&Ws.

Well I can see a high humidity area would make a difference. But I have never had the problem you are discussing about the front of the cylinder dragging on back of the barrel. Not in single or double action. Now if the cylinder is getting a little sticky I just run a brush through the chambers and I am good to go. But to each his own.

John