DS-10-SPEED
Member
The very first (DS-10-SPEED) loaders I made 9 years ago had equal length pins, some shooters mentioned they were too hard to push. The reason they were changed was the reduce the loading force. I always recommend holding the cylinder when loading even with the new loaders, this takes the pressure off the spring loaded crane screw that can be broken or damaged with repeated excessive force. I do not recommend using equal length pins unless you firmly hold the cylinder while loading. Staggered length push pins reduces the loading force by 50%.
I have 3 617's that work great with speedloaders as far as the rounds going in all the way, they have never had the cylinders reamed. I have heard of some having tight cylinders and heard the finishing reamer fixed the problem.
The reason I mentioned this is that a friend of mine (who shoots his 617 a lot) at my club was using one of my very early loaders with push pins the same length. He holds the revolver grip in his right hand and pushes the loader with his left hand to load. This worked fine for a year or so then he noticed the cylinder and crane moving forward when loading, I told him he should be holding the cylinder when loading. He continued his method until the cylinder crane screw broke and both (cylinder and crane) fell on the floor. By then it was too late and a groove had worn in the crane to where a new screw wouldn't fix the problem. I think he welded the groove and filed it smooth.
That's why I don't recommend modifying my loaders to make the push pins even, they are too hard to push.
Just a quick note:
Tested the push force of my current loader with staggered pins = about 4 lbs to load.
Tested the push force of an aluminum loader with even pins = about 14 lbs to load.
Found an old loader:
Tested the push force of my original loader with even pins = about 13 lbs to load.
Tested the push force of my current loader (lighter spring) with even pins = about 8 lbs to load.
Note that the scale readings are approximate from a postal scale.
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