617 Trigger
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OKFC05
Member
Cock the hammer and put a single drop of Remoil or some such down the bottom front of the hammer to help the polishing process.
Then shoot it. Those old glass-slick S&W revolvers did not start out that way.
Then shoot it. Those old glass-slick S&W revolvers did not start out that way.
scooter123
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As noted the Single Action trigger on a S&W revolver will improve with use and a bit of lubrication. Typically a brand spanking new revolver will have a single action trigger that breaks at 4.5 lbs. or a it more. With use and a small dab of lubrication that will drop down to 4.0 lbs. and stabilize at that point if nothing else is done.
Note, the Sear Notch on the hammer on a S&W revolver has a total height of 0.005 to 0.007 inch and that is the reason why EVERYONE advises anyone new to these revolvers to NEVER STONE THE HAMMER. Trying to "improve" the hammer by stoning it is one method that insures that a new hammer will have to be purchased.
If you want to lighten the Single Action trigger past that 4 lbs. point that can achieved with simple use it's actually rather simple to do. What you do is replace the 16 lbs. factory Rebound Spring with a lighter Rebound Spring. Brownell's sells a kit that features Rebound Springs ranging in weight from 11 lbs. to 15 lbs. in 1 lbs. increments. In my experimentation I've found that installing a 14 lbs. rebound spring will result in a Single Action trigger that breaks just a whisker over 3 lbs.. I've also found that installing a 12 lbs. Rebound Spring will lighten the SA trigger to 2.5 lbs. AND MAY RESULT IN A TRIGGER THAT DOESN'T RESET PROPERLY. In order to get a good trigger reset in a revolver using a 12 lbs. or lighter rebound spring you have to do a LOT of smoothing and fine tuning of the lockwork and the frame cavity. As for the 11 lbs. spring, I consider it useless because you would have to install ball or needle bearings in the trigger to get it to reset with a rebound spring this light.
Final note about an older method for lightening the SA trigger and a WARNING. First, time has proven that this method will increase the rate of wear on the Sear Notch on the hammer and lead to Push Off. So, this once common practice is no longer endorsed. However, when purchasing a used revolver it is something to watch out for and correct if you find a revolver that has this modification. That is to stone the Sear on the Trigger to an angle that provides a slight "assist" in lightening the SA trigger break. Basically, you are creating a ramp that allows the Sear Notch on the Hammer to slide "downhill'. Doing this can result in Single Action triggers that I consider dangerously light, in some cases as light as 1 1/4 lbs. Correcting this condition requires stoning the trigger back to the original factory angle and sometimes it's a flip of a coin on whether you'll stone through the case hardening on the trigger and end up having to replace the trigger. To be blunt, you also do not want to stone the trigger on a new revolver.
Note, the Sear Notch on the hammer on a S&W revolver has a total height of 0.005 to 0.007 inch and that is the reason why EVERYONE advises anyone new to these revolvers to NEVER STONE THE HAMMER. Trying to "improve" the hammer by stoning it is one method that insures that a new hammer will have to be purchased.
If you want to lighten the Single Action trigger past that 4 lbs. point that can achieved with simple use it's actually rather simple to do. What you do is replace the 16 lbs. factory Rebound Spring with a lighter Rebound Spring. Brownell's sells a kit that features Rebound Springs ranging in weight from 11 lbs. to 15 lbs. in 1 lbs. increments. In my experimentation I've found that installing a 14 lbs. rebound spring will result in a Single Action trigger that breaks just a whisker over 3 lbs.. I've also found that installing a 12 lbs. Rebound Spring will lighten the SA trigger to 2.5 lbs. AND MAY RESULT IN A TRIGGER THAT DOESN'T RESET PROPERLY. In order to get a good trigger reset in a revolver using a 12 lbs. or lighter rebound spring you have to do a LOT of smoothing and fine tuning of the lockwork and the frame cavity. As for the 11 lbs. spring, I consider it useless because you would have to install ball or needle bearings in the trigger to get it to reset with a rebound spring this light.
Final note about an older method for lightening the SA trigger and a WARNING. First, time has proven that this method will increase the rate of wear on the Sear Notch on the hammer and lead to Push Off. So, this once common practice is no longer endorsed. However, when purchasing a used revolver it is something to watch out for and correct if you find a revolver that has this modification. That is to stone the Sear on the Trigger to an angle that provides a slight "assist" in lightening the SA trigger break. Basically, you are creating a ramp that allows the Sear Notch on the Hammer to slide "downhill'. Doing this can result in Single Action triggers that I consider dangerously light, in some cases as light as 1 1/4 lbs. Correcting this condition requires stoning the trigger back to the original factory angle and sometimes it's a flip of a coin on whether you'll stone through the case hardening on the trigger and end up having to replace the trigger. To be blunt, you also do not want to stone the trigger on a new revolver.
Order the reduced power mainspring from Wolff:
Springs for SMITH & WESSON Revolvers
I buy the "shooters pak" which includes a reduced power rebound spring as well. It made the trigger in my 617 buttery smooth and still very reliable.
Chris
Springs for SMITH & WESSON Revolvers
I buy the "shooters pak" which includes a reduced power rebound spring as well. It made the trigger in my 617 buttery smooth and still very reliable.
Chris
jepp2
Member
An excellent resource to guide you is the Jerry Miculek DVD on how to perform an action job on S&W revolvers. It is also an excellent guide on how to disassemble and reassemble your revolver. If you follow the guidance provided, you will not do any damage. It can be found here link.
I follow Scooter's advice and always go with a 14 lb. rebound spring. Very consistent trigger reset with the approx. 3 lb. pull.
I follow Scooter's advice and always go with a 14 lb. rebound spring. Very consistent trigger reset with the approx. 3 lb. pull.
Last edited:
MichiganScott
Member
I find that until a revolver is well worn in the trigger may not reset fast enough for fast DA shooting with a 14lb. spring. For my needs the 12lb is useless for DA work, even if worn in.
DanWales
Member
Trigger
Scooter knows what he speak'uth.
I have done a little of work to my 617, 625 & 686.
The 686 is a no dash, I think for what ever reason the earlier pistols seem to have a smoother trigger with little work. One worked by someone who really knows what they are doing the trigger DA and SA are insane.
The 617 I got a few years ago. The trigger was a Volkswagon compared to the 686 or 625.
I bought and watched the Miculek video 5 times before I touched either the 617 or 625. As it turned out smoothing overall was a much bigger player as far as shooting improvement. I too use the 14 lb spring in the 617 / 625 I honestly don't know what is in the 686. I do know though all three pistols the pull is just over 3 1/2 lbs and very consistent gosh that must have been just plain out right luck. I've put a 13 lb rebound spring in the 617 / 625 and the trigger reset just didn't feel right. I'm sure someone like Scooter could make it a lot better. But the 14 lb spring is what's still in there.
But honestly smoothing everything ( very carefully ) did the job for me. Each pistol I dry fired over 2,000 times each before I fired them. Sounds like a lot but actually throwing a doubled over towel over each pistol reduced the noise 90 % and I simply sat and watched TV while while doing all the dry firing I do know the dry fire really helped the smoothness I can't emphasize this enough.
So far so good. On the 625 I spent quite a bit of time breaking the area around the chambers as well as the star. I found several very small snags on the star and after I removed those it really helped dropping in LSWC and round nose. Of course the round nose are going to probably drop in a lot smoother unless you really work the chambers for me anyway smooth was a WHOLE LOT BETTER and made a huge improvement.
Ain't much but that's my two cents worth.
Dan
Scooter knows what he speak'uth.
I have done a little of work to my 617, 625 & 686.
The 686 is a no dash, I think for what ever reason the earlier pistols seem to have a smoother trigger with little work. One worked by someone who really knows what they are doing the trigger DA and SA are insane.
The 617 I got a few years ago. The trigger was a Volkswagon compared to the 686 or 625.
I bought and watched the Miculek video 5 times before I touched either the 617 or 625. As it turned out smoothing overall was a much bigger player as far as shooting improvement. I too use the 14 lb spring in the 617 / 625 I honestly don't know what is in the 686. I do know though all three pistols the pull is just over 3 1/2 lbs and very consistent gosh that must have been just plain out right luck. I've put a 13 lb rebound spring in the 617 / 625 and the trigger reset just didn't feel right. I'm sure someone like Scooter could make it a lot better. But the 14 lb spring is what's still in there.
But honestly smoothing everything ( very carefully ) did the job for me. Each pistol I dry fired over 2,000 times each before I fired them. Sounds like a lot but actually throwing a doubled over towel over each pistol reduced the noise 90 % and I simply sat and watched TV while while doing all the dry firing I do know the dry fire really helped the smoothness I can't emphasize this enough.
So far so good. On the 625 I spent quite a bit of time breaking the area around the chambers as well as the star. I found several very small snags on the star and after I removed those it really helped dropping in LSWC and round nose. Of course the round nose are going to probably drop in a lot smoother unless you really work the chambers for me anyway smooth was a WHOLE LOT BETTER and made a huge improvement.
Ain't much but that's my two cents worth.
Dan
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