617 trigger

richrd

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Anyone ever work on one?

I have a 617/2 that I have been trying to get a good trigger pull on.

I suspect it is symptom of being a ten shot. (I checked a new one in the lgs and it did the same thing). I can't tell if it is the hand hitting the top of the window of if it is hanging in the star wheel. I have polished all external surfaces, it got about 40% better but is still there.

What it feels like is a built in stop for someone who likes to stage his trigger pull.

Any ideas?
 
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I have two of these and have done the action on a dozen or more. There is no difference in the action of these 10 shot guns and any other K, L, or N frame as far as doing an action job and ending up with a very nice S/A and D/A trigger pull.
 
well,guy, you say there is no difference. I have 8 six shot revolvers that have nice smooth pulls. And both 617's I've looked at have a distinct catch.

The salesman at the gun shop could SEE every time the trigger stroke hit that spot.

So if none of my 6 shots do this and both 10 shots do, something is different.
 
There is not supposed to be any difference. A lot of the newer guns of various calibers have this condition. It is easily fixed by a good revolversmith, although a new gun shouldn't need "fixing".
 
Have you put enough rounds through the gun to "break it in"? Several hundred rounds usually impart enough "wear" on the new parts to smooth it out. I use 500 to 1000 rounds as a general rule, and try to make 2/3 of that shot double action.
 
I have no idea of how many rounds have been thru it before I got it, but between live fire and dry fire I have well over 1000.

I do my own trigger work. Have been since the late '70s. I know what a "good revolversmith" would do. That was not my question.
 
The hand is too wide for the ratchets. You can file the left side of the nose of the hand down a little bit with a diamond file to pass by the ratchets smoothly. It is not hitting the top of the hand window. It will only take a couple of thousandths. I hope you find this information helpful.
 
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I have several 617’s, both six shot no dashs and 10 shot. There is for sure a difference between the two. I know exactly what you are referring to. The 4” model I have, which has significantly more rounds through it, is worse than the 6” model.
 
My 617's trigger stacked until I installed a new hammer leaf spring. For 15-20 dollars it might be worth a try.
 
Because the 617 is a ten shot, the timing ratchet circumference is tight because they now have 10 lugs in the area that previously only had 6. To avoid the hand hitting the additional lugs, the 617 hand has material removed in the area where it would rub against the lugs once the cylinder locks. The 617 10 shot revolver has unique shaped hand.

On one recent 617 purchase it dragged past lockup, w/empty gun & right handed I put pressure on the cylinder with my left thumb and double actioned the cylinder few times. In my case the hand rubbing against the ratchet essentially polished the mating surfaces & corrected the problem.
 
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the last 4 responses are what I am looking for, thanks.

I polished the hand and it helped a little, but I never remove metal by filing unless I'm sure what I'm doing.

I'll take a good look at the hand when I get time.
 
You can watch the interaction of the hand and ratchets by looking in the back of the hand window with the sideplate off. You can remove the hammer and mainspring for this operation to make things easier.
 
With the side plate off remember to back off the main spring, too much tension and cycling the trigger could possibly break the trigger/hammer pins away from the frame.
 
"THEY ALL DO THAT"

I had a chance to check various revolvers at different places including two new 617's at a gun store.

The results is none of mine or a friends have this catch. 2 out four centerfires we checked at the shop had a slight catch.

But both of the new 617s had a very pronounced snag.

So yes, this a characteristic of the 10 shot.
 
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