625-8 Problem solved!Pics added!

[Fishslayer]

So I go pick up my new-to-me PC 625-8.

Plug, check.
Early cylinder latch thumbpiece, check.
Nice laminate walnut to replace those red, white blue items...

Wait a minute. Screw won't engage the threads.

Some Einstein put the screw hole right over the mainspring!

Is the PC mainspring somehow different from the others?

 

[75Vette]

Sounds like you either need an offset screw or a better set of grips.

 

[Fishslayer]

Sounds like you either need an offset screw or a better set of grips.

Huh... ya mean Goodyears? Cause if ya want a RB/SB conversion N frame grip from the Mother Ship... that's what ya gonna get.

But thanks for your enlightening input...

 

[75Vette]

Huh... ya mean Goodyears? Cause if ya want a RB/SB conversion N frame grip from the Mother Ship... that's what ya gonna get.



But thanks for your enlightening input...

Just having fun. Hogue makes really nice wood grips too. Look and feel good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[photocosmo]

I wonder if you couldn't just refinish the JM originals? Maybe a dark stain or a textured/rubberized application? That is, if you don't mind the RB...

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Can you see the mainspring through the hole? They come in halves. Can you leave one half of the grip on to confirm mainspring is in the way??
It shouldn't be.
I've gotten sent grips with screws that were too short??
Maybe?

 

[jh9]

Is the PC mainspring somehow different from the others?

In the post-MIM/lock era, the PC and pro series guns have used various strain screw and mainspring combinations. Some of them, afaik, will interfere with stocks that don't use the hogue style stirrup attachment method.

The factory has at any given time has used:

the standard flat black mainspring

Wolff Type 1 "factory" equivalents (installed by the PC as part of the 'master revolver action job' in a 681 I sent back in the early 2000s)

Wolff Type 2 "competition only" (installed from the factory with the longer square butt strain screw in a 627 pro I bought new in 2012).

Meanwhile, the Wolff springs themselves have changed. What used to be almost identical to the regular mainspring except for the "power rib" at one point got thicker and then gained a gray coating. Probably as Wolff tried to accomodate the new FMFP guns needing a harder whack to set off a primer.

The only way to know for sure what's going on is to pull the grips and look.

 

[Fishslayer]

I wonder if you couldn't just refinish the JM originals? Maybe a dark stain or a textured/rubberized application? That is, if you don't mind the RB...

Considering that. Would be a no brainer if the colors were skin deep. Looks like they thoroughly soaked the wood.

Can you see the mainspring through the hole?

Clearly.

The screw on the JMs also seems to be offset to the rear. If this is some proprietary PC thing and if those hideous JMs are the only thing that work I'm gonna be a bit annoyed...

 

[Fishslayer]

The only way to know for sure what's going on is to pull the grips and look.

Thanks for that. If it's just a spring change I can live with it. I ain't Jerry Miculek.

I'll pull 'em off again & see if I can find some P/N or other ID. Maybe Wolff will have some info on their website!

 

[jh9]

Thanks for that. If it's just a spring change I can live with it. I ain't Jerry Miculek.

I'll pull 'em off again & see if I can find some P/N or other ID. Maybe Wolff will have some info on their website!

Spring and strain screw. You don't want to use the standard spring in a round butt frame with the longer square butt screw they use in the pro/pc guns. That's way, way too much preload.

 

[Fishslayer]

GOTCHA!

Thanks for all the inputs! Problem is semi-solved.

The mainspring is indeed a gray power rib.

I found that if I back off the strain screw just slightly the grip screw clears. So... I need to get a shorter strain screw and/or the black power rib?

For now I will shoot it & see how it functions. For now it's a range toy until I'm certain it is absolutely 100%. Should take a number of tweeks & range trips!

Oh... for your viewing pleasure...

Before

...and after

 

[BLUEDOT37]

The screw on the JMs also seems to be offset to the rear. If this is some proprietary PC thing and if those hideous JMs are the only thing that work I'm gonna be a bit annoyed...

I usually have some Hogue rubber grips on my 625-8 (625PC), for the range, but I have installed a set of Badger grips on it that also work on my other S&W's.

I'd say the wooden grips you got have the hole slightly out of place.

The factory strain screw needs to be fully tightened or you're going to have ignition issues.

.

.

 

[Fishslayer]

I usually have some Hogue rubber grips on my 625-8 (625PC), for the range, but I have installed a set of Badger grips on it that also work on my other S&W's.

I'd say the wooden grips you got have the hole slightly out of place.

I'm not a fan of finger grooves even a little bit and wanted wood, even if it's laminate. The selection for RB/SB N frame grips available is kind of limited. S&W is out of stock on the only set that appealed to me.

For some reason I want to think I actually came across the mainspring issue somewhere in my research but can't find anything now.

The factory strain screw needs to be fully tightened or you're going to have ignition issues.
.

Aware of that. I'll be doing some testing & tweeking and replacing if necessary. If I can get 100% ignition with a shorter screw I'll be pretty happy.

 

[Pizza Bob]

The laminated Target grips that you picture (and with which the problem exists) appear to be Altamont. I suggest you contact them and see if they are aware of the interference issue and if there is a remedy. Their customer service is outstanding.

A lot of gunsmiths, amateur and otherwise, use the strain screw as a means of "tuning" the trigger pull weight. You just have to Lock-Tite it in place once you get to a 100% reliable state with an acceptable pull.

Good luck.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

 

[Fishslayer]

The laminated Target grips that you picture (and with which the problem exists) appear to be Altamont. I suggest you contact them and see if they are aware of the interference issue and if there is a remedy. Their customer service is outstanding.

A lot of gunsmiths, amateur and otherwise, use the strain screw as a means of "tuning" the trigger pull weight. You just have to Lock-Tite it in place once you get to a 100% reliable state with an acceptable pull.

Good luck.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

Yes, they are Altamont and I sent them an email.

I've considered the loctite fix & may go that way if I can get 100% ignition and still be able to get the grip screw engaged.

I really like the look & feel of these grips and will be keeping them by hook or by crook!

 

[jh9]

I found that if I back off the strain screw just slightly the grip screw clears. So... I need to get a shorter strain screw and/or the black power rib?

The shorter round butt strain screw with a Wolff spring of any type is probably going to produce knuckling. The rebound will bump into the spring and won't have enough room for the action to cycle.

Getting the round butt strain screw and the standard, flat OEM mainspring should work, but will have a heavier trigger.

If you have access to a decent gunsmith you can have the strain screw hole drilled and tapped for a set screw. Then you can adjust it up and down til your heart's content.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

If you have access to a decent gunsmith you can have the strain screw hole drilled and tapped for a set screw. Then you can adjust it up and down til your heart's content.

No need to go to that extreme. Just find a Grade #8 machine screw or a 1/2" set screw with 8-32 threads. Trim to length, test & purple Loc-Tite the final installation. I believe Ace Hardware has them but I keep forgetting to check each time I go.

.

 

[TazTJ]

I used a 1/2" set screw 8-32 to solve light strikes with my 617 .22lr. The factory strain screw won't screw in far enough with the wolff springs to get good ignition. The Wolff springs needed more arch to them to work properly. Then I LocTited the heck out of the screw once it was adjusted.

 

[usafcct]

After you have the correct adjustment and a dab of loc-tite, I use the wifes finger nail polish. Use a little on the side of the screw head at the frame. It provides additional strength in holding the screw in position and also a visual indicator if the adjustment changes.

 

[OldChief]

So I go pick up my new-to-me PC 625-8.

Plug, check.
Early cylinder latch thumbpiece, check.
Nice laminate walnut to replace those red, white blue items...

Wait a minute. Screw won't engage the threads.

Some Einstein put the screw hole right over the mainspring!

Is the PC mainspring somehow different from the others?

Just put a set of Culina French walnut targets on my 625-3.