625 DA trigger pull question.

[brucev]

Briefly, I shot in a match a few weeks ago sponsored by the police department. They will not permit use of a handgun w/ a barrel longer than five inches. This eliminates my use of my six inch 686-1, a revolver that for me ise superlative for competition. I shot the match using a borrowed four inch 686 w/ handloads supplied by a fellow shooter. Iwas impressed with just how light and easy it functioned in DA. There were two rounds that failed to fire. This cost me a loss of 20 points... ouch.

I have a 625-2 with the standard five inch barrel. It shoots superlatively in SA. The DA is heavy when the strain screw is run all the way in. Turning it out maybe a half turn does make a real difference in on target results when firing DA. For the short term I think it will be fine to use the revolver w/ the strain screw backed off a bit. However for long term shooting I figure to look into the springs offered by Wolff.

One problem I have run into is that the screws on my 625 tend to loosen with extended use. Specifically the forward screw that retains the side plate and cylinder comes loose. Once because I was not aware of it getting loose, it fell out while I was dry firing the revolver. Happily I found it on the carpet and was able to put it back in the revolver. As well the ejector rod will loosen. This makes opening the revolver a little difficult.

I have used the lowest grade of LocTite to keep these the screw and ejector rod from backing out. I have been thinking that perhaps that might be the way to go to keep the strain screw from moving. I would appreciate any suggestions others might have as to the above mentioned issues. Sincerely. bruce.

 

[BigChief52]

LocTite is the way to go. Use the blue not the red type and only apply it on the first 2 or 3 threads up by the screw head. That would be enough to keep it from backing out. You can remove the screw by lightly heating it with a micro torch if you ever need to.

 

[ken158]

The strain screw is NOT an adjustment screw - it is designed to be tight or it will vibrate loose and the result is the light indent - ie: fail to fire that you experienced with the 686 you mentioned. If you must tinker with it, file the end down a very little and screw it in tight. As far as side plate screws, a very little locktite but I prefer none - just arm yourself with a proper screwdriver and tighten as needed.

 

[tomcatt51]

I have used the lowest grade of LocTite to keep these the screw and ejector rod from backing out. I have been thinking that perhaps that might be the way to go to keep the strain screw from moving.

Loctite works. Three types are usefull. 222 Purple, 242 Blue, and 290 Green Wicking.

The strain screws on the stainless guns come loose (and their tips mushroom) because they're junk. They're soft, a bad choice of material and/or heat treat. The blued guns don't have strain screw issues.

290 Loctite works well on strain screws. Get it set where you want it and put a SMALL drop on the threads and let lt wick in.

Some insist the strain screw is NOT and adjustment but then say you should shorten it to adjust the mainspring preload. That's not using it as an "adjustment"? How is shortening it functionally different than backing it out? Except that you can't undo shortening it where if you back it out you can screw it back in.

I replace the SS strain screws with 8-32 socket set screws and use a dab of Loctite. Lets me adjust the spring preload easily and being grade 8 the tip doesn't mushroom like the SS strain screws do.

 

[Nick B]

I check the screws on my Smith's after every range trip .

 

[S&WIowegan]

I'm a long-time 625 shooter who has experienced all that you describe. There is a Youtube vid of a friend experiencing his yoke and cylinder falling out of his 625 in the middle of a stage. Been there done that,

I encourage you to get Wolff springs and change them out to lighten the DA pull. Backing out the strain screw is asking for a problem during a match because the screw won't stay put.

Tomcatt's screw replacement is a good idea.

 

[papajohn428]

Large Pistol primers are pretty easy to ignite, and an N-frame hammer is pretty heavy, so the 625 doesn't need a heavy spring for consistent DA fire. However you secure the screws, you need to check them regularly, losing them is no fun. If it were my gun, I'd set the tension where it felt best and leave it there. Guns, especially stainless ones, seem to get slicker over time as the parts wear in, and a lot of shooting or dry-fire practice is an easy way to improve the trigger.