Recently purchased a used 625-4 "Model of 1989". New to the 45 acp revolver scene. First thing is I wasn't aware that the 1/2 clips had a particular side for loading the rounds correctly. One side facing the cylinder caused the cylinder to bind when trying to cock. I noticed when removing the clips and inspecting the ejector that there were small "spurs" on the ratchet part of the ejector. These spurs were appearing to be sheared off by the hand from the action of cocking. I'm not sure if the ratchet is being damaged, or if the spurs were pieces of the ratchet that weren't removed properly in the mfg process (doesn't seem possible). I have attached some pics of the remaining spurs on some of the ratchet lugs and a drawing of what they looked like prior. Does this affect the timing and locking of the cylinder? I've looked at several other Smith revolvers I own as well as at some shops to compare and no others have these spurs. Can any other 625 owners shed some light on this? Do I need to have the ejector replaced? I looked on line for pictures of ejector ratchets and the only one I can find is "new style".
625 Ejector ratchet problem
- Thread starter McH2o
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My 625 dash 3 does not have "Spurs" like your drawing. It looks like they are gone from you gun now right (well maybe one small one). How does the ratchet look. Have you tried new full moons in it. Also if half or full moons are bent even a little bit it can cause binding like you describe. You can check this by loading the gun pointing in a safe direction and hold the hammer about half cock with your finger off the trigger and spin the cylinder with you other hand. It should spin freely. I dont feel it is worth it to try and fix bent clips, I toss them. Theo
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They are hard to see in the pics, but two of the lugs still have a part of the spur on them, and two are almost completely sheared off. The other two are gone. It's hard for me to believe that the piece was inspected and moved on with those spurs unless they are normal and shear off in normal use. I haven't tried full clips but have heard good things about the RIMZ polymer clips. May try them. I assume I am correct regarding the appropriate direction of the 1/2 clips when inserted. One side looks to have a slight bevel. I discovered the difference when doing the test with a slightly cocked hammer as you described. If anyone else has any input, it would be greatly appreciated. I love the 625. My new favorite weapon. Being new to it and the use of moon clips, if anyone has any insight or tips that would help me enjoy and get the most out of a great revolver, bring it...
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I'm not sure how the half moon clips could interfere with the hand/ratchet workings, or would cause what I think I'm seeing in the pictures.
You have the new style extractor. It might be available, but if you are not experienced with working with hands and ratchets, I suggest you just send it back to the factory for repair. It will not be expensive and you will get it fixed properly. It is a very real possibility that the hand is also damaged or is not properly fitted. My experience with fitting a new "new style" ratchet was that the hand also needed work to achieve correct carry up.
Call Smith customer service and ask for a return label.
You have the new style extractor. It might be available, but if you are not experienced with working with hands and ratchets, I suggest you just send it back to the factory for repair. It will not be expensive and you will get it fixed properly. It is a very real possibility that the hand is also damaged or is not properly fitted. My experience with fitting a new "new style" ratchet was that the hand also needed work to achieve correct carry up.
Call Smith customer service and ask for a return label.
Thanks Richard,
I dropped by a shop and spoke with a gun smith. He said that it is normal to have some excess metal on the ratchet and that it works off during normal cycling of the hammer. He checked the timing and lock up and said it was as good as it gets. I'll take your advise and call S&W.
I dropped by a shop and spoke with a gun smith. He said that it is normal to have some excess metal on the ratchet and that it works off during normal cycling of the hammer. He checked the timing and lock up and said it was as good as it gets. I'll take your advise and call S&W.
Dale53
Member
MCH2o;
I cannot tell from the pictures if there is anything wrong with the ratchet or not.
Steel clips whether half moon or full moon do not have a particular side. They should work well from either side unless they are bent.
On the other hand, RIMZ clips had a definite proper "side" to them (and I regularly use them without issue).
When using steel clips it is almost mandatory to use proper tools to demoon and remoon them. I prefer the Brownell screwdriver type tool to demoon:
http://www.brownells.com/shooting-a...ries/moon-clip-stripper-prod6727.aspx?ttver=1
To remoon, I use the Moonclip tool;
Deluxe Moon Clip Tool
the moonclip will actually do both demoon and remoon but I prefer the Brownell tool for demooning.
These tools will allow you to painlessly load and unload the clips without risking damage to the clips.
Another tool, which looks really good but is a bit pricy (I haven't used it as it came after I bought my tools) is the BMT tool. It sure looks easy (watch the video):
BMT Equipped, Inc.
If it is just for range use, then give serious consideration to the RIMZ clips. I prefer their newer model that is carbon fiber/poly. It is stiffer than the original but won't shed rounds if a loaded clip is dropped. The RIMZ clips require no tools but easily load with your fingers.
If you have no problems operating the revolver with proper, undamaged, clips, then I suggest your only problem is with the clips. If you take some better pictures of the ratchet we may be able to offer you some better advice. I suggest open shade and make sure no shadow is covering the ratchet. Further, it is extremely important to be properly focused and hold the camera still (a tripod can be quite helpful).
You might want to have a local dealer take a good look at the ratchet - perhaps they may offer help. If the ratchet is indeed damaged, S&W will probably fix it under warranty. However, they will probably need better pictures to make that decision. A non-dealer gets charged outrageous rates to send a revolver to the factory, that is why others have mentioned calling Smith and asking for a return label (then the return will be on their "dime".
Dale53
I cannot tell from the pictures if there is anything wrong with the ratchet or not.
Steel clips whether half moon or full moon do not have a particular side. They should work well from either side unless they are bent.
On the other hand, RIMZ clips had a definite proper "side" to them (and I regularly use them without issue).
When using steel clips it is almost mandatory to use proper tools to demoon and remoon them. I prefer the Brownell screwdriver type tool to demoon:
http://www.brownells.com/shooting-a...ries/moon-clip-stripper-prod6727.aspx?ttver=1
To remoon, I use the Moonclip tool;
Deluxe Moon Clip Tool
the moonclip will actually do both demoon and remoon but I prefer the Brownell tool for demooning.
These tools will allow you to painlessly load and unload the clips without risking damage to the clips.
Another tool, which looks really good but is a bit pricy (I haven't used it as it came after I bought my tools) is the BMT tool. It sure looks easy (watch the video):
BMT Equipped, Inc.
If it is just for range use, then give serious consideration to the RIMZ clips. I prefer their newer model that is carbon fiber/poly. It is stiffer than the original but won't shed rounds if a loaded clip is dropped. The RIMZ clips require no tools but easily load with your fingers.
If you have no problems operating the revolver with proper, undamaged, clips, then I suggest your only problem is with the clips. If you take some better pictures of the ratchet we may be able to offer you some better advice. I suggest open shade and make sure no shadow is covering the ratchet. Further, it is extremely important to be properly focused and hold the camera still (a tripod can be quite helpful).
You might want to have a local dealer take a good look at the ratchet - perhaps they may offer help. If the ratchet is indeed damaged, S&W will probably fix it under warranty. However, they will probably need better pictures to make that decision. A non-dealer gets charged outrageous rates to send a revolver to the factory, that is why others have mentioned calling Smith and asking for a return label (then the return will be on their "dime".
Dale53
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Boogsawaste
Member
I think I see what you're talking about. I'm wondering, does the cylinder lock up tighter on those 2 ratchets? If it's the part I think I see the side of the hand would contact that spur at full lockup and looks like it would have less play. Of course I'm looking at this on my phone and it's really small on my screen. 
Jamesatrange
Member
If timing is solid and cycling is smooth then I'd keep shooting it. If something fails then Smith will solve your problems. If it's only a fun gun then just shoot it if your local gunsmith said all is well. My 2 cents.
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