625 JM 45ACP 4"

ADI Sporting Powders - AS50N
I was wondering where you got your loads. Looking at ADI's web site, and in their 6th Edition load guide, they don't show a load for AS50N in the .45 ACP. Maybe it's fine. ADI lists AS50N as a shotgun powder, and I understand it's often a distinction without a difference as there is a lot of overlap between handgun and shotgun powders. My concern, based on your problems, is not that the load is too high, but too low.
 
I was wondering where you got your loads. Looking at ADI's web site, and in their 6th Edition load guide, they don't show a load for AS50N in the .45 ACP. Maybe it's fine. ADI lists AS50N as a shotgun powder, and I understand it's often a distinction without a difference as there is a lot of overlap between handgun and shotgun powders. My concern, based on your problems, is not that the load is too high, but too low.

Yes you are right its a shotgun powder, but it works extremely well with my variety of different calibers and loads, I use it for everything, so there is probably very little if any difference.

I have tried a higher load - 4.6gr and it made no difference other than the bang!

Finally I have more or less pinpointed the problem to being a mechanical issue with the head spacing or a bent crane pivot shaft, either way there is nothing I can do to fix it so I'm sending the gun back to the smith.
 
Watched about 10 videos on this revolver
it is now on my short list

Once my issues have been sorted by my gunsmith I will have to replace the grips which is a huge problem for me. Beyond that it's an absolutely beautiful gun and it will set at the top of my collection.

In the meantime I have fallen in love with my 617 (.22) and it's already pushing its way to becoming my number 1 favourite handgun.
 

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Pic of you with your finger on the trigger, that's going to set the Finger Position Police hot on your trail. You can expect a fleet of black helicopters overhead and a knock on your door shortly.

As others have suggested you may have "tightened" the action of your revolver too much. S&W revolvers are designed to function perfectly after being dropped in the bottom of a muddy trench during a firefight, unlike that prima donna brand that begins with a C that requires a resident gunsmith to keep them functioning. Yeah, I'm a die hard S&W fan.

The first potential cause for your problem that comes to mine is something that is very simple and has happened to almost anyone who has spent time shooting a revolver that uses Moon Clips. That cause is a bent Moon Clip. It can be flat out amazing how a bit of bend that is nearly invisible unless you have it laying on a granite surface plate can cause the action to tie up so badly that sometimes you can't pull the trigger using both hands. BTW, a 12 x 12 inch surface plate isn't horribly expensive and can easily be found at a distributor of Machine Shop supplies.

The second very simple potential cause is a bit of stray powder under the extractor star. This is also something that can really become an issue with Moon clips because if you don't use the proper technique you are then dumping the left behind residue from 6 cases onto the extractor and cylinder. BTW the correct technique is to point the barrel straight vertical and give the ejector rod a firm pop. If you simply open the cylinder and pick out the moon clip with the barrel pointed downrange I can guarantee you will have problems with debris under the extractor. BTW, I can state that with absolute certainty because I've been there done that too many times to count with my 610 and 625.
 
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scooter123 is ABSOLUTELY on point! Instead of a surface plate, go to a glass shop and ask if they have some pieces of plate glass. It is flat and the scraps can often be had for pennies (they may be irregular or sharp - ask the glass man what he'll charge to square it up). It only takes a couple of seconds with a glass cutter and a tap...

Just a thought or two...

Scooter, that is a GREAT post!

Dale53
 
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Pic of you with your finger on the trigger, that's going to set the Finger Position Police hot on your trail. You can expect a fleet of black helicopters overhead and a knock on your door shortly.

Yessssir... Scooter... you were right on, the Finger Police came and tried to take all my guns, ammo and even my reloading equipment (just kidding but you are right I should have removed my finger for the photo) and heaven help any shooter here in the land of oz that even has a thought about using a gun for self defense, even if your every day iced crazed home invaders are fully armed and ready to kill your family whilst trying to steal your car, wallet and tv. Oh, and most of them can't be charged with an offense because.... they are 'under age'.......!!!

The base ring thickness of new starline casings is 0.0435"-0.0445" and the cylinder spins free when I load them but I have found one in a pile that prevented the cylinder from spinning free at one spot where the back of the casing binds with the recoil plate. I removed that casing and the cylinder was free spinning. I then measured the offender and the base thickness measure 0.044"-0.0475". I then went through a bag of fired casings and most were within the smaller range but a few Federal casings were up to 0.050". I understand that the gap between the firing pin bushing (head space) and the back of the casing is supposed to be .006" so the thicker or distorted casing bases could be a clue to the issue.
 
scooter123 is ABSOLUTELY on point! Instead of a surface plate, go to a glass shop and ask if they have some pieces of plate glass. It is flat and the scraps can often be had for pennies (they may be irregular or sharp - ask the glass man what he'll charge to square it up). It only takes a couple of seconds with a glass cutter and a tap...

Just a thought or two...

Scooter, that is a GREAT post!

Dale53

Most of my moonclips are new and I have tested the ones I have used on a sheet of glass and they are all pretty much flat.
 
If It Ain't Broke...

I too would agree that the usual cause of a revolver that won't cycle through is a loose tension screw allowing the main spring to straighten. That spring must remain curved when installed.

Next, you had extensive gunsmithing done without first ascertaining whether or not the gun needed fixing.

When evaluating a new gun, it is always best to use factory ammunition so as to eliminate one possible source of shooting issues.

Welcome to the forum.
 
The base ring thickness of new starline casings is 0.0435"-0.0445"
...I then measured the offender and the base thickness measure 0.044"-0.0475".
...a few Federal casings were up to 0.050".
I understand that the gap between the firing pin bushing (head space) and the back of the casing is supposed to be .006" so the thicker or distorted casing bases could be a clue to the issue.

The SAAMI specs for the .45ACP's rim thickness is .039" to .049". Even the Federal cases that were .050" wouldn't be a biggie.

I believe the .006" is minimum shell head clearance. Nomimal headspace between the recoil plate & top of the shell head is .015" for this revolver (.104" max between the cylinder face & the recoil plate (minus) .089" max rim thickness, per SAAMI diagram, 45AR.) And .025" as a worse case (.079", minimum rim thickness, to .104" maximum rear gage, specs) scenario. My 625PC measures .017" while my 325TR is .012"

Let us know what your gunsmith finds out.

.
 
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