I've recently seen a spike in these posts and my 610-3 came with a slightly tipped barrel. Since it was easy to adjust the sight to accomidate for this it really didn't bother me. I am also wondering if it isn't intentional, it may be possible that they are doing this in order to have the adjustable sight centered on the bulk of the guns shipped. BTW, "clocking" the barrel is the traditional way for tuning a SAA to shoot to point of aim, bending the frame only came into use when swing out cylinders weakened the frame enough to permit doing this without risk of damage to the barrel.
Point is, I'd suggest that you take the time to shoot your 625 from a sandbag rest in single action before doing anything. If you find that your rear sight ends up being nearly perfectly centered, just ignore it. If you find that it's near the end of the windage adjustment, then don't bother fixing it yourself, just send it in to S&W and have them correct it, it's why we have a warranty.
BTW, the use of Blue Locktite for mounting the barrel is about the ONE area where I think that it's adviseable on a revolver. It would allow S&W to back off on the interference in the "crush" fit used today and perhaps we wouldn't see so many posts about cracked Scandium frames. I've used this on critical screws on my motorcycle when I found that tightening to factory specs left me with a loose brake caliper and it's good stuff. However, I do not advice using this indescriminately because it can make removing screws that have this in place a bit of a pain. For something like the yoke screw or sideplate screws, a check during cleanings is sufficient. In addition it's actually rare for these screws to shoot loose.