my 625 won't fire double action - one g/s shaved front of cylinder(said it had a high spot rubbing on forcing cone) what happens is I can fire double action 5 times but one chamber won't cock. Single action it works every time. Any help would be appreciated, if not it goes back to S&W
Need a whole lot more specific information. Do you mean the trigger will pull but the cylinder doesn't rotate? The cylinder rotates but the hammer doesn't cock? The gun locks and you cannot pull the trigger more than about 1/8"? Or is it something else? Each of these is a specific symptom which require different fixes.
It could be something so simple as you are not allowing the trigger to fully recover and it isn't engaging the cylinder stop properly to be able to pull it out of engagement with the cylinder stop notches before the cylinder starts to turn. This can be aggravated by either the rebound spring being replaced with a lighter one, or the stock spring has been cut with the intention of reducing the double action pull weight. With he gun empty, dry fire it and then watch, and feel closely as you let the trigger forward. If the trigger hesitates, or seems to barely making it past the "hump" as the hammer begins to be cammed back by the rebound slide then it is time to replace the rebound slide spring with a factory one and see if the problem goes away. The rebound slide should easily cam the hammer back, not just barely be able to do so. There should be no hesitation at this point.
I can tell you one thing it isn't, though. Has nothing to do with the "Locking Bolt", that is the plunger in the barrel lug that engages the front of the extractor rod.
Check the cylinder for end-shake by trying to move it fore-and-aft when closed. anything more than barely perceptible (the limit is generally considered to be .002-.003") is too much and has to be addressed before anything is done with the barrel-cylinder gap. If your gunsmith tried to correct the cylinder dragging on the barrel breech without correcting end-shake first, then he is not worthy of calling himself a gunsmith. Same goes if he tried to correct the problem by working on the cylinder instead of a simple file stroke across the barrel breech, after correcting end-shake first of course.
At this point it may be a very good idea to send it to S&W so it can be repaired by people who you can be confident know what they are doing.
