629 Internal Lock Replacement

OldChief

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If you remove the lock from a 629 and plug the lock hole, is the entire locking mechanism removed or is the plate that rises and indicates the revolver is locked left in?
 
but if you plug the hole with JB weld nobody will know the internal lock has been removed without disassembling the gun

There are proper plugs made for this purpose. They are removable and the lock can be replaced if selling the gun or sending it back to S&W. My company sells them as do a couple of others.
 
Or you can Tig weld the holes and stone down the weld and polish the holes away like I did on my 340mp..gone like it never happened...not for everyone I understand.
 
Or you can Tig weld the holes and stone down the weld and polish the holes away like I did on my 340mp..gone like it never happened...not for everyone I understand.

You may have the ultimate fix, but not sure what the folks at the mothership might do if you had to send it in for repair.
 
There are proper plugs made for this purpose. They are removable and the lock can be replaced if selling the gun or sending it back to S&W. My company sells them as do a couple of others.
Yes, but the “flag” still must be removed which is the part the O.P asked about. To my knowledge there is nothing available to fill the slot beside the hammer after removal of the “flag”.
 
Or you can Tig weld the holes and stone down the weld and polish the holes away like I did on my 340mp..gone like it never happened...not for everyone I understand.

Do you have any pics? You can PM me if you'd like not to share.

I've been wanting to tig a hole shut for a long time but I don't have the guts to do it. I haven't been able to figure out how to match the brushed finish of a stainless S&W
 
Yes, but the “flag” still must be removed which is the part the O.P asked about. To my knowledge there is nothing available to fill the slot beside the hammer after removal of the “flag”.

Correct. Nothing I know of either. It is, however, somewhat less of a cosmetic issue than the plug hole. I’ve replaced the lock on two exposed hammer guns, a 627 and a 686. Both had marks on the side of the hammer where the flag was dragging on the hammer. Removing the lock and flag reduced the trigger pull weight an ounce or two according to my scale. Also smoothed the trigger pull a bit.
Lock replacement for most folks is strictly cosmetic I think. There are other benefits. Yes, there’s no doubt that once in a great while the lock can engage unintentionally. Likely more guns in any given time frame fail from other common causes like dirt under the extractor or loose extractor rod.
 
You can keep everything looking normal by just grinding the nub on the flag down flat with the rest of the surface. Then there is nothing to engage with the hammer, no open space where the flag was, etc.
 
You can keep everything looking normal by just grinding the nub on the flag down flat with the rest of the surface. Then there is nothing to engage with the hammer, no open space where the flag was, etc.

You can certainly do that and many owners have done so. Very, very dangerous thing to do. News flash! You are not the last owner of your gun. You might even sell the gun to someone and tell them that the lock is inoperative. They might tell the next owner. Or not. Somewhere in time this information will be lost. You may be long dead. Maybe not. Someone locks the gun to prevent tampering by a child. Or so they believe. Could turn into a real tragedy very easily.
I strongly suggest that the locks be removed or left alone! You can remove the lock without plugging the hole. Looks like **** but won’t lead anyone down a rabbit hole. Pun intended.
 
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Do you have any pics? You can PM me if you'd like not to share.

I've been wanting to tig a hole shut for a long time but I don't have the guts to do it. I haven't been able to figure out how to match the brushed finish of a stainless S&W

That might be a situation where someone refinished the whole revolver and at the same time weld up the holes and maybe the flag slot next to the hammer..don't forget to backpurge the inside of the frame with plenty of argon lest you sugar the stainless and render it rusty..mine was a Scandium frame and I wasn't going back to black ion bond coating so a light beadblast after finishing off the weld was all it took...a beadblasted stainless finish would make this a easy weld job. Brushed stainless could be done but probably not for someone who hasn't matched brushed finishes..now if you refinished the whole revolver brushed and did it carefully it would probably look great.

The thread I posted on my hole weld up is titled"Bye Bye Illness"
 
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