629 Polishing question

Lefkiguy

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I just bought a 629-3 5" for $550 from the original owner, who shot it very little, but banged it up in the safe a lot, as seen in the picture below (his picture). I'm going to polish it out with Flitz, but was concerned about polishing around the lettering, I don't know how deep it is or if it will polish off. I was thinking of taping over the lettering, just in case. Any suggestions?
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No worries about obliterating the stampings with the Flitz.I can reccomend a coat of wax after the Flitz to put a little more "pop" in the final results.Any good carnauba wax will suffice many folks use the Rennaisance wax.Not readily available-internet ordering is about the only way.Johsons paste wax works for many,I use high grade auto wax with no cleaners.Better than oil.

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But the OP's are the laser etched marks...

I've read that Flitz etc. can remove the etching but have no first hand experience. I'm sure others will be along that can give you a definitive answer.

If that's what his "safe" guns look like I cringe when I imagine what his users must look like!!
 
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With that many scratches I doubt that you get it right with Flitz. And I did polish up a SS part once with laser etched letters. Letters were gone real fast.
If it were my gun I would Total polish or total sandblast it. In both cases the letters are lost but is that a problem?

If I polish I use waterproof sandpaper 1000, 1500 and last 2000. Use small pieces of flat wood to pressure the paper, not with the fingers. Round parts move the sandpaper/wood in "counter round movement. When I am not clear I rather make a small drawing than try to be more clear.
Flat surfaces need to stay flat, therefore use the wood. Edges only as last done.
After that, then use Flitz. Or better a polishing wheel on a bench grinder.

I have some experience, this way polishing works.
Start:
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Dull metall:
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Halfway pollishing parts
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Re nickeled
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I have not a good picture of the polished gun but believe me, SS can shine like a nickeled gun.
 
Don't know how much or little value you lost on the refinish but it looks magnificent.What kind of revolver is that ?
 
I lost no value since the start was real bad. A 1900 revolver with nails were the screws should be, missing internals and springs and even a hex screw.
I just like to see what I can make of something dead.
It's a pinfire revolver (Systeme lefaucheux) from about 1900 and in Europe not scare or worth that much.
I do this just for fun and try to work some on metal

This was my first project:
From:
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Halfway:
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To:
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For the original poster - yes, it is fairly easy to remove those early laser etchings. But, what the heck. In the condition it's in, I'd try Flitz, simichrome, etc. under the "what have you got to lose" theory. Your idea of taping the markings is a good one.

Then, after you're done, if you don't like it, then you can send it to S&W for a professional refinish; you won't remove enough metal with a cloth and Flitz to prevent them from doing their magic.
 
That 5" 629 looks like it was stored in a cement mixer and carried loose in the bed of his pickup when he did carry it. 320-400 wet dry paper will duplicate the original base finish then polish by hand with Mothers mag wheel polish to subdue the sanding marks. Avoid sanding the laser engraving and you should be able to restore this revolver pretty close. If you want it nickle plated looking then sand it on down to 1000 wet dry and then hit with a buffing wheel. The wheel will really cut a lot of metal and will smear and streak the finish over the laser markings and screw holes so avoid them until the very end and go very lightly over them when the rest of the gun is done.
 
Thanks everyone for your comments, I was thinking of trying to keep the laser engraving, but I guess I'll see how the rest of the polishing comes along before I do near the engraving.
Ted
 
An update to bring some closure to this thread...I purchased the OP's 629 at the beginning of October with the intention of either full polishing or full bead blasting it. Here are some before/during/after photos. I started by polishing with semichrome which did look a lot better, but some of the scratches were still visible so I went with a glass bead finish using MSC fine (175-325 grit) beads. I'm pretty happy with how it came out. My plan was to completely remove the lettering on the barrels, which was in rather poor condition to begin with. I just wanted to subdue the "Made in USA" lettering, which came out about how I pictured it. Initially I just wanted to subdue the sideplate logo, but I went a bit too heavy on it I think. If it ever needs to be re-blasted I'll just use emery paper and polish to remove the sideplate logo and re-blast, but since I plan for this to be a shooter it's not worth the effort at the moment.

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