olfart
Member
I bought one a couple of years ago, but I find the two-stage trigger to be a problem for me. I'm accustomed to a single-stage, one smooth stroke. Is there an easy modification to eliminate the two-stage?
637-2 Two Stage Trigger
- Thread starter olfart
- Start date
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OK, are you referring to the double action stroke (trigger action moves the hammer and cylinder until a chamber aligns with the barrel and the hammer falls) or during the single action where you manually cock the hammer to align the chamber and the hammer locks in the cocked position? If there's slack in the single action trigger, send it back to S&W.
I think we need a few more words...."two stage" can mean many things to different people.
As you work through the double action trigger pull, are you feeling a hesitation or an increase in the pull weight just before the hammer drops? Something that you can pull through but definitely feels different?
As you work through the double action trigger pull, are you feeling a hesitation or an increase in the pull weight just before the hammer drops? Something that you can pull through but definitely feels different?
OP
olfart
Member
Sorry for my lack of clarity. Yes, I'm referring to the double action pull. First part is smooth, then hesitation before the break. The hesitation is the part I'd like to remedy, making one continuous stroke.
If I'm interpreting what you're typing correctly, the trigger movement is controlled by your finger. The trigger stroke should be one continuous motion, making slight sight picture corrections until the gun fires. Depending upon how many cycles your gun has been through, there may be some minor drag from parts that haven't worn in yet. Also, the springs of a new gun will let down somewhat with use.
ALL mechanical gadgets need some "break in" before the parts are moving smoothly. This is why automotive owners manuals suggest driving and stopping gently for awhile to let the parts get accustomed to working together. A slight change in the rebound slide spring might help, but don't get too radical. You do want the trigger to return promptly.
See my post on new gun trigger issues in the M&P semi area. Applies to ALL triggers.
ALL mechanical gadgets need some "break in" before the parts are moving smoothly. This is why automotive owners manuals suggest driving and stopping gently for awhile to let the parts get accustomed to working together. A slight change in the rebound slide spring might help, but don't get too radical. You do want the trigger to return promptly.
See my post on new gun trigger issues in the M&P semi area. Applies to ALL triggers.
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OP
olfart
Member
Every other S&W revolver I've owned has been smooth right out of the box. This one has a definite hesitation requiring extra effort just before the break, every time. That's why I assumed it was built that way.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
That is the hand binding between the ratchet and frame. A lot of the newer guns come with that "feature". Cycling the action will wear it in, or you can thin the hand a tiny bit on the left side of the nose part with a diamond file. A thousandth or two will get there. It's easy to do too much.
OP
olfart
Member
Thanks for that info! Sounds like a much easier solution than I had envisioned. The way the trigger pull is now, I never would have shot it enough to wear it in. There may be some serious dry fire on the horizon.
I've had a few with that issue. Some came to me that way, others were the result of parts changes that needed just a little bit of wearing in before they were smooth all the way around.
If yours is the same on every chamber and you're comfortable taking it apart multiple times, Protocall_Design's suggestion is what you need. Please heed the warning about going too far. It's better to disassemble/reassemble the gun a dozen times than it is to take too much off and have to start over with a new hand.
Another method that has worked for me is extensive dry fire. The hand is harder than the ratchet teeth, so it will "fit itself" with enough use. Double and triple check that you have snap caps or empty cases in the gun, put on a movie, pick a character, and every time that character comes on screen give them two to the chest and one to the head. Stop every once in a while and put a drop of oil on each ratchet. Oh...and wear gloves. The last one I did this way had a serrated trigger and it chewed the heck out of my trigger finger.
If yours is the same on every chamber and you're comfortable taking it apart multiple times, Protocall_Design's suggestion is what you need. Please heed the warning about going too far. It's better to disassemble/reassemble the gun a dozen times than it is to take too much off and have to start over with a new hand.
Another method that has worked for me is extensive dry fire. The hand is harder than the ratchet teeth, so it will "fit itself" with enough use. Double and triple check that you have snap caps or empty cases in the gun, put on a movie, pick a character, and every time that character comes on screen give them two to the chest and one to the head. Stop every once in a while and put a drop of oil on each ratchet. Oh...and wear gloves. The last one I did this way had a serrated trigger and it chewed the heck out of my trigger finger.
OP
olfart
Member
Back in 1975 when my wife and I went through the sheriff's academy, our FBI firearms instructor had us dry firing nightly. By the time we got to the range, we all had band-aids on our trigger fingers, but we scored well. The exercise he had us doing was to hold the revolver vertically with the front sight at eye level, concentrating on the front sight as we stroked the trigger. Once we were satisfied that the front sight was not moving, we put a quarter on the muzzle and continued. We eventually got to a point where the quarter would stay on the muzzle through multiple strokes of the trigger. Then it was time to do the same with a dime. No way I could do that with this 637, but with enough practice maybe it will improve.
