637-2 with a 642-1 hammer experiment UPDATE PICS ADDED

Grimjaws

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So I put a 642 hammer into my 637-2 basically bobbing it for pocket carry without any worries about snagging. It was a drop in process since parts are MIM.

I can still sort of get a purchase to try single action but it is hard to do - so I'm focused on double action.

Ran 60 rounds of mixed wadcutters, fmj and even two cylinders of +P Remington. I have a set of Pachmayr on there and it still had a sting to it.

No failures to fire or any issues with the new hammer

Total price was $38 for to 642 hammer

I know many folks have seen or even used a bob hammered j frame with no issue. I figure I have all the benefits of concealed carry without any snagging plus the full weight of a stock hammer for various ammo and primers
so far so good

Going to run another 50
rounds this weekend of more mixed ammo including some armscor and federal and see how it does

On another note this came from the factory with the smoothest trigger. Very nice to shoot double action so I figured why not try the 642 hammer.

Will try and post a picture later

As requested here are the before and after pictures
the rebound spring removal tool is worth its weight in gold for working on Smith and Wesson revolvers
 

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Mostly a pocket carry thing

I only have the one picture of the finished revolver.

In terms of why? I just thought it was worth a shot and I don't have access to the tools to grind down the existing hammer plus it was cheaper than paying a gunsmith to do it. And due to MIM parts it was an easy swap.

Smith and Wesson offered factory bobbed hammer models in the past and they know more about this stuff then me but I just feel more comfortable using a stock full weight hammer configuration versus a lightened one.

I pocket carry and practice drawing with an empty pistol. A few times the normal exposed hammer caught on my sweatshirt. I put a thumb over my hammer when I draw but if my thumb slipped off the normal hammer caught my pocket. It happened enough times to understand the appeal of the shrouded hammer models.

This experiment only cost me $38 which is cheaper then a 642 😁
 

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Your logic appears pretty sound and clever. You still have the original hammer also. I am a dedicated pocket carrier when it gets warm out and I am in town. Anything that could possible snag represents a bad idea to me. My pocket carry choice is a 649 "no dash". Could we have a photo of the back of the revolver?
 
I will say, well done! Changing hammers is actually easier than cutting down a hammer and, if you ever decide to sell it, you can return it to factory original configuration. The bobbed hammer is definitely a benefit to concealed carry.
 
637-2 with a 642-1 hammer experiment

Tried to bob the hammer on this model 36 and did a terrible job. So, I just replaced it with a bodyguard hammer from my parts bin. Works just fine. A little less "snaggy." It was a drop-in fit. Got lucky.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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Kudos to you & nice job! I have a 637 and had the spur removed. I actually considered what you've done albeit, too late. All the benefits of the centennial but with the ability to still use SA. What's not to like?
 
grim, so after having this a bit, do you still like it this way and how does it shoot?
 
I won't argue alleged benefits or claimed disadvantages of a revolver with hammer vs. bobbed hammer one way or the other, but here's something to think about... Carry any J-frame snubnose .38 with a hammer daily for at least several years. Do the same with a bobbed hammer version of the same gun. Keep track of the number of times the full-hammer version "snags". Compare these figures with the same for the "no snag" gun. The comparison will likely surprise most.
 
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grim, so after having this a bit, do you still like it this way and how does it shoot?

It has smoothed out with more time at the range trigger wise and have not had one misfire or failure to fire reloads or factory rounds.

I tried the factory grips but those are two small and beat up my hand too much that is why I went pachmayr

I'm surprised at how accurate it is at 7 and 10 yard ranges with 158 grain ammo. I can hit some steel too at the 25 yard range. I grew up shooting revolvers mostly k frames and I prefer the S&W trigger over Colt and Ruger(had both other makers but have since sold off all non S&W save one 1968 Cobra I just got)
 
I won't argue alleged benefits or claimed disadvantages of a revolver with hammer vs. bobbed hammer one way or the other, but here's something to think about... Carry any J-frame snubnose .38 with a hammer daily for at least several years. Do the same with a bobbed hammer version of the same gun. Keep track of the number of times the full-hammer version "snags". Compare these figures with the same for the "no snag" gun. The comparison will likely surprise most.

...As opposed to a clumsy oaf like me who couldn't draw a spurred hammer gun from a laundry bag w/o it snagging.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

P.S. I know, don't use a laundry bag for carry...:D
 
I replaced the 637 factory hammer with a factory J frame bobbed hammer from midwest gun works $15
I did have to move the sear from the old to the new hammer
 

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I know this is an older thread, but i just bought a like new 642 hammer and trigger on ebay for $20 shipped. It was a drop in fit and now allows me to shoot DAO which is best with a revolver like the 637. Using hbwc from Georgia Arms I can keep them all in the space of a playing card at 7 yards shooting POA. No +P for me, too much recoil and different POA. I polished the cylinder flutes for a little pazazz.
 

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I think there is much to be said for being able to fire an S&W revolver single-action or double-action as designed, but defensive use and a gunfighting frame of mind seems to take precedence. Looks is likely a factor as well.
 
To me, snagging while carrying isn't the issue. With the right holster, any gun will never catch on your clothing. The real problem is snagging during the draw. That can stop the draw dead in it's tracks right when you need your gun the most. Once the gun comes out of the holster, there is no end of things it can catch on.

There are those who say "Just put your thumb over the hammer spur when you draw. That's something I don't want to have to remember and execute under high stress. It's the KISS principle. Everyone else is free to have their opinion, and do as they please. This is just one person's thoughts on the subject.
 
I once saw at a gun show a Model 60 with a Model 38 hammer. Low snag but still cockable, easier than the Bodyguard. Claimed to be NYPD policewoman configuration.
 
I know this is an older thread, but i just bought a like new 642 hammer and trigger on ebay for $20 shipped. It was a drop in fit and now allows me to shoot DAO which is best with a revolver like the 637. Using hbwc from Georgia Arms I can keep them all in the space of a playing card at 7 yards shooting POA. No +P for me, too much recoil and different POA. I polished the cylinder flutes for a little pazazz.
That's awesome. About a year ago one of my son's friends had just bought a house out in the country and with two kids and single income could not afford a handgun to carry around his property. He always liked shooting the 637 when he came for a visit plus he liked the idea of the lock. So I put the spur hammer back on and gave it to him as part of a smoking deal - literally - he had to smoke a brisket for the missus and me while we visited with his kids. I still have the hammer and can find a replacement much easier than he can. I carry a 442 now but miss that little belly gun.

Also who knew 2 years later someone else would give it a try. Neat!
 
How much of a problem is snagging?
I've been pocket carrying a J-frame for over 60 years and haven't had a hammer snag yet.
Should I start worrying about the possibility ?
 
I once saw at a gun show a Model 60 with a Model 38 hammer. Low snag but still cockable, easier than the Bodyguard. Claimed to be NYPD policewoman configuration.
Served as a sgt and lt at the NYPD Firearms and Tactics Unit. I was one of several officers who specified the model 60 NY-1 design (I specified stainless steel construction and a full width front sight; i.e, same width as the model 10 heavy barrel model). There was never an issued Model 60 with 38 hammer. "Police-womans" handguns went away sometime in the 1970s.

Mine is serial #RPR0001 (my initials).

RPR let ver 1.JPG

RPR let ver 2.JPG

Here's the whole story behind the development of that revolver and stainless revolvers at the NYPD specifically:

The Story of How the NYPD Switched to Stainless Steel Handguns as well as Why All S&W Two-Inch Barrel J-Frame Revolvers Now Have Full Width Front and Rear Sights

I served in the NYPD from October 24, 1969 to the end of April 1990 (from January 1990 until April 1990 I was on various leaves officers received upon retirement), retiring as a lieutenant, and become chief of police in Wellfleet MA (January 15, 1990~October 1, 2010). While in the NYPD one of my commands, serving as a sergeant and lieutenant, was in the Firearms & Tactics Section (FTS). I served under Commanding Officers Frank McGee, Tom McTernan and John Cerar, in that order.

All handguns used by the NYPD when I was with the FTS were of blued (ferrous) metal. From memory, my first stint with the unit started around 1981. My assignments were:
  • Conduct the NYPD Police Firearms Instructors School
  • Run the Heavy Weapons Training Unit
  • Oversee Research and Testing
By 1981 it was clear to everyone in the police world that blued handguns (made of ferrous metals), which had a propensity to rust if not properly maintained, should have been replaced with stainless steel model revolvers some years earlier. The first stainless steel handgun which came out was in 1965, the S&W model 60. By the 1970s it was clear that this was the preferred material for service use handguns.

Yet, the NYPD stuck with their blued metal sidearms. Why?

On April 3, 1972, Detective William Capers, while on duty and attempting to arrest a robbery suspect, was killed by "friendly fire." The Detective was carrying a nickel-plated revolver at the time of his unfortunate death.

At the Grand Jury the officer who fired the fatal shot made a statement to the effect that he thought all NYPD officers carried blue-metal handguns, thus he thought that the Detective was an armed criminal.

The Grand Jury, among its recommendations, stated that the NYPD should only permit blued metal handguns for its officers use, to prevent such a tragic mistake as took place with the Caper's shooting from happening again.

So, when I first came to the FTS as a sergeant, the Commanding Officer, lieutenant Frank McGee, would not consider any handgun color other than "blued." Frank was an extremely bright, well educated and highly knowledgeable individual, particularly in the field of police firearms training. But he could be rather ridged and that Grand Jury recommendation that all police handguns in the NYPD were to be blued would not change under his command.

I initially, as a sergeant, contacted Ruger and S&W, and had both companies send me stainless steel handguns, but dyed (?) a dark color (kind of an ugly gray). I still no luck in convincing the Commanding Officer into making the switch to stainless.

I left the FTS to fly helicopters for the department, having been made an offer by the Aviation Unit I could not turn down (they would train me to fly helicopters!).

When promoted to lieutenant, as is the custom in the NYPD, I was required to be transferred to another command. That was at the 46 precinct (Bronx NY). Sometime after this new assignment I was contacted by the Commanding Officer of the FTS, then Captain John Cerar, who asked if I'd like to return to the training unit. Captain Cerar was an administrator but was shy on the intricacies of police firearms training and was looking for someone knowledgeable in the field he could rely on.

Once back at the FTS as a lieutenant, I had better luck with the stainless steel matter. The unit had a recent problem with their newest batch of S&W heavy-barrel model 10 revolvers (so-called "C" models). These handguns must have had some manufacturing issue with their finishes, as the amount of rusting seen on them was wholly unacceptable. S&W blamed the issue on poor maintenance on the part of officers (nonsense) and I was given the responsibility to try and fix the problem.

We were running large recruit classes at this time. I ordered several Ruger and S&W revolvers, in stainless steel, and put them out on the range for use by the recruits. I deliberately did not permit these handguns to be cleaned between firings. Each revolver had many hundreds of rounds went through each handgun.

I made a pitch at a committee meeting on this issue at 1 Police Plaza for stainless and prevailed!

Prior to the guns being shipped I was called in to the Gunsmith shop. S&W asked what other modifications I wished them to place on the new stainless guns. I specified full-width front sights. Since that order ALL S&W 2" J-frames come with the wider sights!
Richard Rosenthal

Chief of Police, Wellfleet MA PD, retired
Lieutenant NYPD, retired

IMG_4532_S&W 60-1 NYPD_07-09-11.JPG
 
I once saw at a gun show a Model 60 with a Model 38 hammer. Low snag but still cockable, easier than the Bodyguard. Claimed to be NYPD policewoman configuration.
Interesting...I would have liked a photo of that setup
 
Interesting...I would have liked a photo of that setup

It looked like a handy outfit, the front sight painted orange, the rear sight painted green.

There was never an issued Model 60 with 38 hammer. "Police-womans" handguns went away sometime in the 1970s.
Hey, it was at a gun show... in the 1970s or early 1980s. Claims get made to sell stuff.
 

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