My newly purchased 64-3 (1980) manufacture) has started locking up in the same place after I polished the exterior. However, I polished only the exterior without disassembly. Prior to the it worked beautifully. For a few rotations it cycled through all cylinders although it was rough (harder to pull the trigger) Then it stopped altogether. I have cleaaned and lubed it. the cylinder is fully seated. Opening the cylinder and holding back the release, the trigger works fine. Took off the side plate and used Powder Blast to clean everything out of the interior. Took the cylinder out and cleaned it, the yoke and extractor, lubed and reassembled it. Still locks at the same place. Any thoughts?
64-3 Cylinder Lockup Problem
- Thread starter tda003
- Start date
amazingflapjack
US Veteran
Sounds like the problem is exclusive from your other measures, and just happened to occur after them-it may need some parts replaced-hand?
OP
I haven't taken the cylinder assembly apart. However, the ejector moves freely and ejector rod does not show any sign of being bent when doing the ruler test. Looking at the ejector, I don't see anything that looks out of whack comparing it to my model 10.
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Check between the cylinder face (front) and the breech of the barrel for adequate gauge. B/C gap should be more than .004". Also, check for polishing crud or leftovers in one or more of the cylinder stop slots.
If you removed the sideplate screws, did you get them back in the correct locations?
If you removed the sideplate screws, did you get them back in the correct locations?
The hand moves the cylinder and the stop locks it in place. There is something happening that was introduced during your polishing since the gun worked fine before... can you make a short video of the issue you describe?
OP
64-3-cylinder-lockup-problem
The thinnest gauge that I have is .005". It will just squeeze in the left (cylinder lock) side, will not go all the way through and will not go in at all on the right (side plate) side. I did remove the cylinder assembly during polishing. The polishing was done with a 3M maroon pad by hand.
I cant see anything in the cylinder stop slots even under magnification, but to make sure, I cleaned them with a bore brush.
I'll have to ask one of the younger folks about a video as that"s a skill I don't have as my knowledge ended with Super 8 movies.
The thinnest gauge that I have is .005". It will just squeeze in the left (cylinder lock) side, will not go all the way through and will not go in at all on the right (side plate) side. I did remove the cylinder assembly during polishing. The polishing was done with a 3M maroon pad by hand.
I cant see anything in the cylinder stop slots even under magnification, but to make sure, I cleaned them with a bore brush.
I'll have to ask one of the younger folks about a video as that"s a skill I don't have as my knowledge ended with Super 8 movies.
OP
Works! Having run out of ideas, I removed the side plate, cleaned everything up and carefully replaced it and, PRESTO!, the revolver magically started functioning normally. I'm guessing that the hammer block was out of place and doing something because, other than cleaning up excess oil, it's the only thing I touched.
OP
Stopped working again. When I took the side plate off, Iwas able to push the arm in a bit. Reassembled and it worked thru 5 - 6 revolutions and stopped again. Side plate off hand pushed in, worked. The hand seems to get outside its slot and then stops. This is apparently the problem. What's the cause and the fix?
Does the hand have proper spring tension pushing it into the slot?
You might have a spring problem
Check the hand slot for debris. Some might have gotten in there during polishing
You might have a spring problem
Check the hand slot for debris. Some might have gotten in there during polishing
Last edited:
andyo5
Member
Possibly some contaminant entered the yoke or extractor rod. Also possible that something is lodged between the extractor and the rear face of the cylinder. Check the last option first (its the easiest). If nothing found, disassemble the extractor by clamping the forward tip of the extractor rod in a vice (use wooden blocks as soft jaws to hold it in place. Do not clamp it directly in the vice). Rotate the cylinder clockwise to unscrew the rod. The rod has reverse threads, so clockwise is loosen and counterwise is tightening.
I have several times had your problem happen after using a chamber brush on the cylinder. A single filament from the copper brush was enough to lock up the action where it corresponded with the chamber hole passing by the barrel.
I have several times had your problem happen after using a chamber brush on the cylinder. A single filament from the copper brush was enough to lock up the action where it corresponded with the chamber hole passing by the barrel.
OP
I've ruled out the hand. With the cylinder out and the release held back, the weapon functions perfectly.
That leaves the yoke. I have thoroughly cleaned the extractor front and back. I disassembled and cleaned the extractor and reassembled the pistol. Same problem. Is it just possible that the extractor is toast?
That leaves the yoke. I have thoroughly cleaned the extractor front and back. I disassembled and cleaned the extractor and reassembled the pistol. Same problem. Is it just possible that the extractor is toast?
Polishing your gun is not going to have any influence on the extractor that worked fine before. Examine the ratchets and see if anything is impending. You could have a bent yoke barrel... and as the cylinder turns, some ratchets are not getting the full force of the hand.
Have you put any range time in with this gun? If so how did it work?
Did you remove anything from the inside besides the hammer block? And you are sure that is properly seated?
With the cylinder open, it spins freely by hand?
If this all worked fine before you polished it, I think you have some crud somewhere, that you have not found yet
Did you remove anything from the inside besides the hammer block? And you are sure that is properly seated?
With the cylinder open, it spins freely by hand?
If this all worked fine before you polished it, I think you have some crud somewhere, that you have not found yet
OP
This is a new to me revolver. I have no range time with it. I polished it because its exterior was in the worst shape of any pistol I have ever seen. It's supposed to be a police turn in. I can't imagine what this officer did with it. Many of the scratches will likely never come out. it looks pretty good now.
I dry fired it through several rotations of the cylinder at the store when I picked it up. Smooth action. However, it's possible that it had this problem before and that it just didn't occur.
Holding the extractor on a straight line and turning the cylinder reveals no wobble. I don't have more sophisticated instruments, though.
I have a friend who is a S&W trained revolver armorer. I'll take it to him to work on it.
As I write this, it has suddenly started working. Demon possession?
I dry fired it through several rotations of the cylinder at the store when I picked it up. Smooth action. However, it's possible that it had this problem before and that it just didn't occur.
Holding the extractor on a straight line and turning the cylinder reveals no wobble. I don't have more sophisticated instruments, though.
I have a friend who is a S&W trained revolver armorer. I'll take it to him to work on it.
As I write this, it has suddenly started working. Demon possession?
Hmmm...I got a 64-3 "overseas police return" (strangely, no
import mark) recently. It initially cycled fine, but gradually
began _over_rotating past stop--first on somewhat intermittent
basis, then increasing in frequency.
I've got a post on it in the 1980-newer revolvers section.
Turned out to be a MIM replacement cylinder stop, that had
a raised mold marking on it's port side, which was eating a
groove into the frame and slowing down the ball's upward
movement in the frame window.
Might try looking for ill-fitted replacement parts...
Another option is removing side plate and mainspring,
and cycling action, using some finger pressure in
place of mainspring to motivate hammer movement. Won't
bend mount bosses, but let's you see how everything is
interacting. That's how I realized the cylinder stop ball was
rising up way too slowly, and found the problem.
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OP
Took the revolver to my friend. He worked on it for a while and determined and came up with what I had suspected: The timing was off a lot which he corrected as best he could which stopped the over rotating. However, the ejector has a bad spot on it and needs to be replaced. The firing pin has been replaced (badly and w/o the spring although it functions). The rear sight is damaged (possibly from a carpentry project by its last owner?) There is barrel slop which he made better, but wasn't able to completely cure. There are probably other issues, but who knows
So it's off to S&W for an overhaul estimate. I suspect the repairs will far exceed the value of the revolver itself.
So it's off to S&W for an overhaul estimate. I suspect the repairs will far exceed the value of the revolver itself.
