640 firing pin

[Doc TH]

I have had problems with my 640-3 firing pin(s). A few years ago, the firing pin broke when I was dry firing (with snap caps). At that time I usually, but not always, used snap caps. S&W repaired the 640. Subsequently, I always used snap caps when dry firing. I don't dry fire a great deal, but mainly do so to smooth out the trigger pull a bit. About 2 months ago, the pin broke again while dry firing w. snap caps. I am concerned about this because this is designed as a defensive handgun, and its reliability is now in question to me, and also because I have other handguns with frame mounted firing pins that I have dry fired more frequently without any issues. S&W again repaired the gun and replaced both the FP and yoke.
Have any Forum members had similar experiences? Is this a common problem with this model, and if so, are there recommended aftermarket FP replacements?

 

[7shooter]

I had a firing pin break on a 640 years ago which I attributed to dry firing . S&W fixed it. I have since sold it.

 

[stansdds]

I have a 640-1, no issues at all and I have had mine for over two decades.

 

[white cloud]

I have always read that drying firing should not damage firing pins. That said, I don't dry fire my EDC revolvers much. This is frustrating because dry firing is a very useful activity IMHO. I also keep spares around.

 

[gwpercle]

Just keep snapping that revolver ... everyone say's it won't harm a thing ... Right ?

My Dad had a big Rule ... No Snapping
I turned into my Dad , I don't Snap and I don't damage guns .

Your gun , you get to make your rules .

Gary

 

[H Richard]

I was told once that dry firing a revolver with a hammer mounted firing pin was no problem, but should limit dry firing a "Frame Mounted" firing pin, such as K22, or the 640 along with others.

 

[M29since14]

I always did more dry firing with the 1911 than with revolvers. Never had anything break in any of my .45s, but I have seen a couple of broken hammer noses on revolvers owned by others. These days, as parts for our older revolvers will only continue to be harder to find, and smiths who actually KNOW how to work on them (not experimenters), I never dry fire my older S&Ws any more. It is a shame that these perfectly serviceable, wonderfully made weapons, about 30+ years old, are no longer fully supported. In the case of a newer 640, I'd not worry much about it unless the current owner's manual cautions against it.

 

[armorer951]

Personally, I'm not a fan of the S&W frame mounted firing pin assembly. Seems they are often plagued by the accumulation of shooting debris, and the spring and firing pin designs can contribute to spring and firing pin failures. We are now stuck with them, however, so be sure to check the integrity of these components often.

If you are able to do so, regular cleaning of the firing pin cavity, spring and firing pin can reduce failures.
Remember to use a de-greasing liquid like alcohol or acetone.....and check the cavity and components for debris or stray Q-tip fibers (if you used Q-tips for cleaning) with a magnifier before reassembly. If you clean this area periodically please remember, do not lubricate the components before re-assembly.

Apex and Power Custom spring and pin combinations seem to be the most reliable in my experience. I have not tried the TK Custom pins.

Cylinder and Slide pins seem to be the most vulnerable to breakage, and should only be dry fired using snap caps. I believe they include a warning to this affect in their packaging.

 

[Doc TH]

Thanks, armorer 951, I am afraid that's what I suspected. The frame mounted FP and spring assembly seems to lend itself to problems, and I will probably get an Apex or Power Custom spare pin and spring, as this seems to be a fairly straightforward replacement. Still, S&W's website CLEARLY states dry firing CF revolvers is OK, and I have concerns that problems occurring from dry firing with snap caps seem equally likely to occur with real ammo. Thanks again.