photoman
Member
I supposed that's a possibility but I've never heard of anyone doing it. If anything, you gun will smell really nice after your done.
642 Action Job
- Thread starter bassoneer
- Start date
I supposed that's a possibility but I've never heard of anyone doing it. If anything, you gun will smell really nice after your done.
It may be as easy as taking the side plate off and lubing the moving parts,this can be done by you and the results will be noticed immediately. If this doesn't help bring it to the smith that did the work and show him what you are describing. He may need to touch up the moving parts.
It sounds to me like the trigger is being staged and what you are describing sounds grittiness at the break. For double action shooting your pull should be smooth and nonstop through the break, not necessarily slow and deliberate.
You don't say if your friend had similar results or did his turn out more to your liking. I don't own a 642 but you may be expecting too much as far as the trigger pull is concerned. Having said that don't give up, most every Smith I own/owned has had smoothed up some with use.
Comparing an older Smith to your 642 may yield very subjective results.
Most of the pre MIM guns i've owned were very smooth through the
break.
It sounds to me like the trigger is being staged and what you are describing sounds grittiness at the break. For double action shooting your pull should be smooth and nonstop through the break, not necessarily slow and deliberate.
You don't say if your friend had similar results or did his turn out more to your liking. I don't own a 642 but you may be expecting too much as far as the trigger pull is concerned. Having said that don't give up, most every Smith I own/owned has had smoothed up some with use.
Comparing an older Smith to your 642 may yield very subjective results.
Most of the pre MIM guns i've owned were very smooth through the
break.
ContinentalOp
Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2009
- Messages
- 6,315
- Reaction score
- 12,813
I've heard of that being done, but from what I've read it doesn't do anything to smooth the action.
glock_556
Member
Does it do anything?
I don't care whether you pull the trigger fast or slow, nothing should be "crunchy". If there's a catch at the end just before the sear releases the hammer, something's not right with the engagement of the sear and the hammer.
I cleaned up an MIM 642 following Jerry Kuhnhausen's instructions in his S&W revolver book - just lightly polishing the primary contact points but staying away from the hammer hooks & sear. (polishing being taking off high points - NOT getting a smooth, shiny surface) Trigger pull went from over 12 pounds down to 11 something, and all of the grittiness disappeared. I'd had the gun for over 10 years and had shot it plenty before fixing it.
If there are rough spots through the trigger pull, there may be grit and/or rough spots on the contact surfaces of the rebound slide, the edges of the hand may still be too sharp (stay away from the top of the hand though!), etc.
Bottom line, I'd either take it back to the gunsmith who did your "action job" or find a gunsmith who knows what he's doing. Lube in the right places may help, but "crunchy" and "gritty" won't be fixed by oil or grease, not in the long-term anyway.
I cleaned up an MIM 642 following Jerry Kuhnhausen's instructions in his S&W revolver book - just lightly polishing the primary contact points but staying away from the hammer hooks & sear. (polishing being taking off high points - NOT getting a smooth, shiny surface) Trigger pull went from over 12 pounds down to 11 something, and all of the grittiness disappeared. I'd had the gun for over 10 years and had shot it plenty before fixing it.
If there are rough spots through the trigger pull, there may be grit and/or rough spots on the contact surfaces of the rebound slide, the edges of the hand may still be too sharp (stay away from the top of the hand though!), etc.
Bottom line, I'd either take it back to the gunsmith who did your "action job" or find a gunsmith who knows what he's doing. Lube in the right places may help, but "crunchy" and "gritty" won't be fixed by oil or grease, not in the long-term anyway.
ContinentalOp
Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2009
- Messages
- 6,315
- Reaction score
- 12,813
It makes a mess that can be difficult to clean out. Maybe makes your gun smell minty-fresh.
OP
bassoneer
Member
UPDATE: I have solved this dilemma. I took the gun back to the same gunsmith who did the action job. He wasn't there when I took the gun in and the young guy behind the counter just started snapping away at the gun saying it felt fine. I assured him that he would not have hit any target shooting like that and he just chuckled as if I was stupid, but he agreed to check the gun in. I called the older guy (the gunsmith) on the phone the next day when he was in...I explained what was going on...that the trigger was OK, but there was a snag at the very end. He asked that I bring some ammo to him and he would take it to the range and try it (not sure why all gunsmiths don't do that anyway) but I did...it was basically just some Remington 130 grain FMJ practice ammo. He only shot 15 rounds, but found the problem. We had all been looking in the wrong place. The little piece that comes out of the frame (hand??) and turns the cylinder at the little star (sorry for my lack of knowing proper lingo) was snagging on a rough spot. The gunsmith found the issue and took away a burr and now it is AWESOME! The young guy snapping away at the trigger just makes me smile...I know how to shoot a damn gun...may not be any good, but I've shot enough S&W's to know it had a snag. I took it to the range today to finally get the CT laser grips sighted in and it was dead on. What a pleasure to pull the trigger slow and smooth, all the way through the action, and then have the gun fire without having a snag at the end. That always made me pull to the right. I put five shots dead center in the target and smiled a big smile...I am very happy.
So, for all of the 642 owners...if you have an action that is rough, a good gunsmith can figure out how to make it smoother. It may take two trips and putting up with some youngsters that have never fired a revolver, but you can figure it out if you are persistent. I had never heard of this problem before. Hope this helps somebody. B
So, for all of the 642 owners...if you have an action that is rough, a good gunsmith can figure out how to make it smoother. It may take two trips and putting up with some youngsters that have never fired a revolver, but you can figure it out if you are persistent. I had never heard of this problem before. Hope this helps somebody. B
Once happened to me...
Sometimes a mere re-springing even with Wolff's will not get you there, on DA pull in particular. I personally have had no problem w/ disassembly/reassembly when closely following Jerry Kuhnhousen's excellent S&W Revolver book. I use TriFlow Teflon oil in the bottle to relube innards. Also, I once bought a new Python with a burr on the part of the extractor star where the hand turns the cylinder, BUT it only affected ONE chamber, gunsmith stoned it off, a critical part. Ask your 'smith to fix it and tell you the type of Wolff springs installed, standard power mainspring or reduced power, also trigger return spring pounds value. The book will keep you out of trouble if you follow it religiously and take your time. Best of luck... I would try speaking to your 'smith first, cannot hurt.
Sometimes a mere re-springing even with Wolff's will not get you there, on DA pull in particular. I personally have had no problem w/ disassembly/reassembly when closely following Jerry Kuhnhousen's excellent S&W Revolver book. I use TriFlow Teflon oil in the bottle to relube innards. Also, I once bought a new Python with a burr on the part of the extractor star where the hand turns the cylinder, BUT it only affected ONE chamber, gunsmith stoned it off, a critical part. Ask your 'smith to fix it and tell you the type of Wolff springs installed, standard power mainspring or reduced power, also trigger return spring pounds value. The book will keep you out of trouble if you follow it religiously and take your time. Best of luck... I would try speaking to your 'smith first, cannot hurt.
GCT00427
Member
Problem was going to Predator in the first place. One of the gunsmiths there (I won't name him here) nearly ruined a Colt Commander of mine. I wouldn't let them work on a toy gun. Luckily a really good metal smith named Pete Single was able to correct their screw up and made a show piece out of it.
getoff
Member
be careful how easy a trigger pull you get/want. had my 442-2 done and got many ftf, on all ammo. had to go back to almost factory pull to get reliable ignition. its still pretty smooth, but this is not, i repeat, not a target gun. good luck.
I just wanted to mention the fact that the 642 has a coil mainspring and other models have the flat mainspring, making those much smoother feeling compared to the 642. I'm not sure that a coil mainspring can ever give you that buttery feel...
Similar threads
