642 advice needed

spirit4earth

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I'm going to buy a 642, and I can find a no lock one, but there more deals available on the ones with the internal lock. Is the internal lock really that bad? Your feedback is appreciated!
 
I'm going to buy a 642, and I can find a no lock one, but there more deals available on the ones with the internal lock. Is the internal lock really that bad? Your feedback is appreciated!

Just how much cheaper is the one with the lock? I have one without the lock, and when I got it, the prices were the same with or without the lock. If you're only saving 20-40 bucks, buy the one without the lock. If you ever decide to sell it, I'm sure you would get you're money back.

Just my .02
 
I have a LOCK 642 and 442, they have always worked when i pull the trigger probably have something else break before the "locks" shut it down, but from what i read on the internet "lock" S&W's are second class.
 
I have a 442 and a 340sc with locks and have never had a concern. I shoot .357 in the 340 and still no concern. I do admit though that I make sure with the key that they are fully unlocked on occasion and they always are. If the price isn't too much higher go with the no lock model. When I bought mine it was not available unless you bought a used gun. Those 2 j-frames are my most carried guns and I never feel under protected.
 
Oh boy, a lock thread. In before the...well, you know.

After reading a million of the often heated and impassioned debates, my personal conclusion is that 99-and-44/100% of the time, the lock is a non-issue and should be regarded as such.

The only thing I have against the lock I'd have against the addition of any unnecessary component to a mechanical device: increased complexity (however minutely, perhaps) increases the chance of failure, and why take the chance in a self-defense device if you don't have to?

I do think it's worth noting that in most (of the very few) cases where lock failure has appeared to occur, it has been in the smaller framed revolvers (where it is reasoned that the greater concussive effect of expending a round might be jarring the lock); it is some of these same smaller framed revolvers (including the 642) that, without official explanation, S&W is beginning to offer without the lock.

Take from that what you will.

None of my guns has the lock.
 
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I bought my 642 with the lock and bought the plug and removed the lock. Just one less thing to go wrong when your world turns to S***.
 
No-lock means no key needed in your pocket all the time also. Another thing to worry less about.

If I knew they were available I would have purchase a no-lock one. But I have one with the lock so I disabled it. Still is an ugly spot on an otherwise fine looking revolver. I'll get the plug one of these days.
 
It's more of an issue of fewer things to break on my pistola issue than anything else. Well, that, and the fact that I hate lawyers and what they have done to this country, gun owners and the gun industry.
 
Although all the guns I've owned w/the lock have had no problems, to include my 340PD shooting .357, I'd still go for one w/o the lock.
 
I'm as frugal as the next guy, and I have no issues with the lock myself. I have a 686 and 617 with the lock that I happily shoot thousands of rounds with in competition. I haven't given one thought to the lock.

That being said I bought a 642 without the lock. For me they were the same price. So there is no reason to get one with a lock, unless you plan to use it.

For you, there is a price difference. Even being frugal and personally being wholly indifferent to the lock, for a purely self-defense gun (and only for a few bucks - what are we talking $20?) I'd pay a little extra to get the no-lock.

Others care plenty about the lock which may affect you financially later. While I'll likely never sell the gun, if I did, as mentioned above, I might make more money on the sale or at least be able to sell it easier to a bigger audience.
 
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I have a 642 and a 638 that both come with the lock. I removed the internals and left the rest. Really doesn't look that bad. I won't buy a new K frame, or regular J frame because of that lock but because of what the lock has done to the profile of the frame.

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2
 
Is there a thread or instructions somewhere on how to remove the lock and where could I find the plug needed?
 
Personally, I would get one without the lock. In 20 years, you will be glad you spent the 10-30 dollars extra. For a compact, pocket type gun, simplicity is paramount, as is keeping debris out. Removing flags, locks, putting in plugs, etc. whatever, makes things more complex, and opens up the possibilities of things going awry and/or possible openings for debris to enter the action. The 642 is designed to be simple, and too keep debris out of the action. Adding or changing factory parts, etc. simply adds more possibility/chance of failure.... I would spend the extra money to eliminate the 'chance'...

The truth is, the initial cost of the gun is nothing in the long run. You can save more by starting to reload, if you shoot a lot... or, simply finding deals on ammo....
 
If I have the option, I'll go no lock. It isn't needed and is one more POSSIBLE thing to go wrong.
That said, I carry a MP 360 daily and shoot GD SB .357's out of it. Never had a problem.
Dave N
 
No lock for a carry/defense arm....period. For target and hunting work it doesn't much matter.
 
As others have said, I'd go with the non lock if economically feasable. I never gave the lock much thought until, while shooting a friend's gun, it locked up on me during a range session. I came home and followed the youtube tutorial with the exception that I dremmeled down the post and reinserted the flag on my own gun. I don't think it took more than half an hour to do. As photoman said, "how much is peace of mind worth".
 
Is there an advantage to either the 442 or the 642? Is the cylinder on the 642 actually painted?
 
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