Bigduck
Member
Im wondering what ammo everyone else is using in there 642 airweights,I couldn't hit the ground at my feet with mine.At 7 yards I have trouble keeping it in an 8inch plate.I run 130gr,158gr,and wadcutters 158gr
I could only shoot my 442 well with 148gr wadcutters. 3.2g of HP38.
I tried all others including the factory "lite" ammo. 90gr I think.
I'd rather shoot a 2" K frame all day.
My 642-1 lady smith I carry regularly in a back pocket with a soft pocket holster is stoked with 158-grain Lead Semi-Wadcutter Hollow Point (LSWCHP) +P's [ whats known as the fbi load.Im wondering what ammo everyone else is using in there 642 airweights,I couldn't hit the ground at my feet with mine.At 7 yards I have trouble keeping it in an 8inch plate.I run 130gr,158gr,and wadcutters 158gr


I move between my 642-1 and the shield plus myself. The shield plus is much more effective past spitting distance. Two fine pistols with different capabilities/parametersThe secret to shooting J-frames accurately is practice, practice, practice! My 642-2 is very easy to shoot and accurate out beyond 20 yards, but my normal practice distance is 7 yards. At the shorter distances, I forget about the sights and practice point shooting. My EDC is intended to only be a "fire extinguisher" and get me out of a tough spot, not keep me engaged in some type of extended gun fight. I typically practice with Winchester 130 gr FMJ or Federal 158 gr. Nyclad RN...and finish up with a few Federal Hydra-Shok 110 gr. JHP. When I EDC, the 642-2 has the 110 gr JHP Hydra-Shok along with a spare Speed Strip. But to be honest, I've began to EDC with my PC Shield Plus 9mm. It's the same size as the Airweight, fits in the same Sticky pocket holster, but gives me many more rounds of 9mm HPs and is easier to shoot. Just my 2 cents.
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My j frame smith has requirements set by myself based on my ability with the snub. I'm not going to intervene in a scenario that's 10 yrds out with the snub, where with a glock 17 or 1911, 20 yrds isn't out of the question making reliable COM hits.I had no problem putting hits on a 10x20 steel target at 30+ yards with my 642. Would I ever choose to shoot my 642 that far in a defensive situation, highly unlikely.
I also practice point shooting.The secret to shooting J-frames accurately is practice, practice, practice! My 642-2 is very easy to shoot and accurate out beyond 20 yards, but my normal practice distance is 7 yards. At the shorter distances, I forget about the sights and practice point shooting. My EDC is intended to only be a "fire extinguisher" and get me out of a tough spot, not keep me engaged in some type of extended gun fight. I typically practice with Winchester 130 gr FMJ or Federal 158 gr. Nyclad RN...and finish up with a few Federal Hydra-Shok 110 gr. JHP. When I EDC, the 642-2 has the 110 gr JHP Hydra-Shok along with a spare Speed Strip. But to be honest, I've began to EDC with my PC Shield Plus 9mm. It's the same size as the Airweight, fits in the same Sticky pocket holster, but gives me many more rounds of 9mm HPs and is easier to shoot. Just my 2 cents.
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The solution is dryfire. Hundreds of times.
It won't hurt the gun. Our 642 has been dryfired a thousand times at least and wasn't new when we got it. It functions perfectly and the dryfire reps also smooth out the trigger.
Grips are a second avenue of potential improvement. For J-frames, the choices are many but you won't know for sure until you drop the hammer on some live rounds.
To the K versus J issue: get a Detective Special.
I use 110 Gr Silvertips in the aluminum frame 642-2 with very good results. I also use Crimson Trace grips on this pistol which helps, too. ---Despite good advice from this forum I went ahead and purchased a 638-3 a week ago and have seen multiple problems/defects with it unfired, so back to S&W. Should learn to take good advice that I asked for, so the error is mine; should have known better. (I have CC'd S&W revolvers since 1974 including my Model 36 Chief Special which despite being a Bangor Punta Smith has been an absolute gem for 52 years. I did get the square butt back in the day and it certainly helps get on target and then some.I have a 638-3 Airweight and it is difficult to shoot double action with accuracy, I shoot 148 grain wadcutters; forget the +P stuff, too much recoil. I shoot at 7-10 yards on an IPSC practice target and just try to get 5 quick rounds center of mass.
If I could shoot my airweight like that id print the target and were it on a t-shirt id be so proud !Full disclosure, both of these had trigger jobs done by Nelson Ford....
I have also since replaced the wooden grips with OG Uncle Mike's as I was getting a little bit of tearing on my hand.
One-Handed
135gr speer gold dot reloads I practice with to the same velocity as the factory ammo that I carry
10 yards
442 top
642 bottom
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Well, the forcing cone and bbl area were not deburred, as were some other easily accessible external parts, finger slicing sharp. Cylinder was very tight and very gritty to open and close, along with a deep channel on the rear frame cylinder window from the cylinder release ball detent - far, far worse than my other Smiths with years and years of use on them. The key for the 638 would lock but not easily unlock the mechanism without a lot of fiddling around, and the key from my 642-2 wouldn't work the 638 lock at all! The trigger was very, very gritty and 12-15# DA but almost hair-trigger-ish SA, and all this while not fired or broken in at all (and again this is brand new in the box), so off it went to Tennessee. Years ago, my 642-2 went back twice - brand new, too, so I'm seriously bummed out, and will certainly trade this away if it comes back less than GTG. I will lose $$ but can't have a non-reliable revolver on board if/when needed. My other two are fine, so it can be done, but S&W QC is less than trustworthy, apparently. Just as an aside, several years ago I tried to buy a couple of spares for my Model 36 - first guy at S&W cust service said, call back in a month; when I did, same guy said "we only make parts as needed and don't sell spares to owners. If you have a need you will need to send the entire revolver to us and pay to get the spares added to your current piece, no spares will be returned." At that point I dropped the whole spares thing - like I said, should have known better last week but didn't take good advice from the forum and purchased anyway - my bad!What kind of problems did you have with 638? I have a 638 no dash that I have carried either on ankle or off side pocket since the late 1990s it has never failed
I do much prefer steel frames, but with my older, smaller hands, and generally older stiff back, I carry the 642-2 as much as my Model 36. My wife preferred the 642-2, also. The older Model 36 has been a gem for 52 years, no issues at all, so S&W used to deliver that type of quality. Corporate mergers etc., are not necessarily our friend as customers, I guess.I've had two 638-3s that worked fine and were 100% reliable. Accuracy was fine as I recall. One would outshoot the older guns. It takes much shooting practice to develop the skill necessary to shoot these guns well.
I prefer steel-framed guns and sold my 638s, but these are still good revolvers.
Im wondering what ammo everyone else is using in there 642 airweights,I couldn't hit the ground at my feet with mine.At 7 yards I have trouble keeping it in an 8inch plate.I run 130gr,158gr,and wadcutters 158gr