642 Finish.Definitive answer?

[Mister X]

Is anybody 100% positive what kind of finish is on current production 642's?

Paul Pluff says the 642's are clear coat Anodized, but other S&W CS reps say he is wrong and they are not anodized and merely have a spray on clear coat.I also wonder if the 442's have just a sprayed on black coating rather than Black anodizing since no where in it's description does it say Anodized and you would think they would want to promote that if they were.

On the S&W website under speciality services, they offer Mil-Spec Anodizing.I thought it might be cool to send in my 642 and have the frame done in Black hard coat anodizing.Would wear better and be easier to touch up than whats on there now.

 

[Broker50]

It's a sprayed on clear coat, not anodized. My 642 finish is holding up very well, but if I ever feel the need to refinish, I'll have it hard chromed. Hard chrome is the most durable finish available, IMHO.

 

[Mister X]

I had considered hard chrome myself, but it has to be pre-plated with something else since the chrome won't stick to the aluminum.Sounds rather labor extensive and expensive.

 

[Broker50]

Seems pretty reasonable to me, & yes, they do plate the aluminum frame first.

Price Sheet

 

[Dale53]

Daniel W.;
You are confusing decorative chrome (like an automobile bumper) with Industrial Hard Chrome. I have used Metalife (Industrial Hard Chrome) on guns several times. It is probably the best finish available. That is, there is no plating under the finish on steel firearms. Aluminum requires plating with Electroless Nickel first. Incidentally, Electroless Nickel is itself a very good finish.

Years ago, when I was an active IPSC shooter, a shooter would wear the blue off his 1911 in a matter of months everywhere his hands touched (simple abrasion from the hands) as well as holster wear. I had my 1911 Electroless Nickel plated (the plater was within driving distance and had quick turnaround). I fired 75,000 rounds from my pistol afterwards and it still looks like the day I took delivery of the plated auto. That includes probably an equal number (at the very least of dry firing draws). It is good stuff, also.

I use Mahovsky Metalife for industrial hard chrome:

Hard Chrome Plating & Electroless Nickel Plating, Armalloy & Gun Bluing by Mahovsky's Metalife

A revolver runs $150.00 to completely plate. Mahovsky's are very good people to deal with.

The complete details are on their web site.

Dale53

 

[Mister X]

Not as expensive as I thought it would be. I figured having to pre-plate the aluminum would really jack up the price, but that isn't too bad.

 

[Mister X]

I got this from Grant Cunningham

They appear anodized with some sort of coat over the top to help them match the color of the stainless steel cylinder - a coating that wears and peels with the slightest provocation!

(P.S.: Never trust a gun company CS rep for anything other than the time of day - and still you should double check just to be sure. If the rep in question is their PR person, make sure he didn't steal your watch.)

Anodizing really isn't optional on an aluminum gun frame; it's necessary for wear resistance. The hole in the frame which the cylinder lock pin runs, for instance, would wear to uselessness in no time at all if not for the harder anodization. The same is true where the rebound slide runs; in fact, I do no polishing on the internals of any aluminum frame to avoid wearing through that thin layer.

As to why they don't mention it? Who knows. Remember that those descriptions aren't written by engineers, they're written by salespeople - and who cant tell what they're thinking when they're sober?

 

[jdh]

Powder coated then clear sprayed is what I was told when mine went in for a refinish under warranty.

 

[cwd500]

Has anyone tried polishing there airweight? i thought about trying a polishing compound. if anyone had would you post pictures?

 

[Mister X]

Anyone Else Dislike The S&W Airweight Original Finish - The Firing Line Forums

 

[Broker50]

I got this from Grant Cunningham

They appear anodized with some sort of coat over the top to help them match the color of the stainless steel cylinder - a coating that wears and peels with the slightest provocation!

(P.S.: Never trust a gun company CS rep for anything other than the time of day - and still you should double check just to be sure. If the rep in question is their PR person, make sure he didn't steal your watch.)

Anodizing really isn't optional on an aluminum gun frame; it's necessary for wear resistance. The hole in the frame which the cylinder lock pin runs, for instance, would wear to uselessness in no time at all if not for the harder anodization. The same is true where the rebound slide runs; in fact, I do no polishing on the internals of any aluminum frame to avoid wearing through that thin layer.

As to why they don't mention it? Who knows. Remember that those descriptions aren't written by engineers, they're written by salespeople - and who cant tell what they're thinking when they're sober?

Believe what you will, if they were anodized, they would not need clear-coat. On a gun they're trying to hold a price point on they will do no more than is necessary to get it sold. Powder coating, then clear coating is cheaper than anodizing, & in my experience, I believe holds up better than the old anodizing.

 

[Mister X]

A follow up from Grant Cunnigham if he was sure it was anodizing...

" Without actually testing (the easiest way is electrically, as anodizing is non-conductive), I could never be "positive" - but it sure looks like it's anodized to me, and I've never seen the telltale Al corrosion on those where the applied coating has worn off. Next time I see a worn one, I'll test it."

Epoxy/Powder coat with a clear coat over it would make sense based on it's appearance and the guy in that firing line thread link I posted above said it sure smelled like an expoxy when he took it off.