66-7

[shadow1]

First post here.
I went to the indoor range today and while I was waiting, I noticed a 2.5" S & W model 66 sitting in the cabinet. It was just traded in that day.
The more I handled it, the more I liked it. I had been wanting a 2.5" 686 but had not run into one at a decent price.
I picked it up for $420.
When I got it home I see it's a 66-7. I'm not finding much love for the -7 on the web.
Did I make a mistake?
Dave

 

[bamabiker]

Welcome to the forum.
Most the newer S&Ws have the internal lock and MIM parts which a lot of us do not like and some refuse to buy. Others could not care less, most of which pay it no attention or do away with the lock...the most hated of the two.
It should be a fine gun and at $420 I think you got a good deal but you'll have to decide if it was a mistake.

 

[shadow1]

It's the only S & W I have that has a lock. I will probaly just remove it. I know some where I ran across a thread on removing the lock and filling the hole with a screw.
And thanks for the welcome.
I need to find some pictures of grips for it to get an idea of what to order. The rubber Hogues are not doing it justice.
Dave

 

[bamabiker]

There is a forum member who sells "the plug" which fills the hole once the lock is removed. Do a search and you should find info on it or someone will be a long to tell you more about it.


Here it is...
http://smith-wessonforum.com/showthread.php?t=143299

 

[stantheman86]

There's a good chance that 66-7 is an Australian PD trade in and the lock is already de-activated There were 2.5" and 4" 66-7's re-imported by the Australians.

Ask the gun shop owner to turn the key in the lock so the flag is up, and try to work the action.

I have a 4" 66-7 that is a SWEET shooter, and it was an Aussie PD re-import. They had ground the nub off the flag, thus rendering the lock inoperable All this griping about the lock, and they can be removed or cleanly deactivated in minutes. If you "boycott" the IL S&W's you are missing out on some nice shooting guns.

 

[shadow1]

Thanks for the responses. I got flamed on another web forum for not noticing the lock. I wasn't looking for a lock behind the cylinder latch. None of my other S & W's have locks. The only revolver I have a lock on is a Taurus and it's on the back in plain sight.
I pulled the flag out but I left the spring in. Should I remove everything?
Dave

 

[MTKTM]

I have a 4" 66-7 that I bought new in '05 just before they discontinued the 66 entirely. I decided I wanted one of the late examples. The -7 has the lock, MIM parts, and a two-piece barrel (although I've never seen an example of the 2.5".....post a few pics sometime if you can) and none of those features endear themselves to S&W lovers. However, I shot mine a bunch over the next several years in IDPA and practice, and it's a great gun. Never gave me a single issue. I presently have it on my nightstand.

 

[shadow1]

Good to know. I will probably buy the plug through the member here and do away with the locking mechanism.
One other thing I notice is the trigger pull does not feel as good as my 686-4 but close. Right before the break I can feel a slight "hang". Seems to be coming from the lever that indexes the cylinder. Could just be it has not been shot enough.
Dave

 

[shadow1]

Pictures

 

[65kaiser]

No mistake at all in my opinion. I have a -6 that is my every day carry and is one of my favorite guns. I removed the lock and put in the plug. I paid about $40 more for mine and was happy with the deal. good luck and good shooting!

 

[shadow1]

I ordered a set of Hogue Bantam grips for it until I decide what wood grips I want. Too bad I can't find the exact same Bantam in wood.
Dave

 

[mbnatt]

If you can't stand it, PM me and I'll info to ship too! I have a late model 4" and I love it, Lock and all, most accurate 66 I've shot!

 

[shadow1]

I think I'll like it just fine. Glad I came here to find some information on it.
I have a few S & W revolvers. Nothing else like them as far as I'm concerned.
I still want a 2.5" 686 pre lock. -4 would be great to match my 4"

 

[Ashlander]

Shadow: Before you remove anything, do as Stantheman mentioned -- make sure the lock has not already been deactivated. My 66-7 is like Stan's. It was an Aussie cop trade-in and the lock has been deactivated. If you you turn the key -- nothing locks.

What's nice about the 66-7 is that it has a 2-piece tensioned barrel that helps accuracy. Though it has only a 2 1/2" barrel it is my most accurate revolver (of several). Its forcing cone is also different from the previous k-frame models -- it does not have the flat spot at the bottom which was an unfortunate design weakness for a gun intended to shoot full magnum loads.

 

[shadow1]

Unfortunately it did not come with the key.The flag does have a nub sticking out of the hammer side.
Dave

 

[stantheman86]

I traded a Dan Wesson Model 15 .357 for my 66-7. Dan Wessons are known for their accuracy, but my 66-7 is a better shooter than that DW ever was, and has a better action. That 2-piece tensioned barrel makes the 66-7's real tack drivers. That being said, I have a 67-1 and a 10-6 that will shoot cloverleafs at 25 yards from a sandbag, so I think the "real world" difference in accuracy with the tensioned 2-piece barrels is negligible. It would probably only be noticed by a very skilled shooter using a sandbag rest.

I have no real love for Dan Wessons since I discovered that you can rotate the cylinders out of lockup by hand, and DW enthusiasts say it's "normal"

If it has the nub it is not an Aussie trade in and it has not been deactivated. The flags are a pain to get back in, but you could just file the nub off and reinstall the flag.

I "plugged" a 10-14 that I have, and I can never fully get over the gap to the left of the hammer where the flag was. I almost wish I had just left the whole mess in place.

If you are using this 66-7 for defense, and as a CC piece I would just go ahead and leave the flag out. it will have a gap next to the hammer but this is only cosmetic. There is no way that lock will activate.

 

[dentkimterry]

I have two 66-7's, a 4" and a 2 1/2". Both are excellent shooters and trouble free. The lock and two piece barrel are of no concern to me. All I care about is how they shoot!

 

[Ashlander]

Shadow: Keep in mind that many of the guys who hate the lock hate MIM parts as well. There is nothing wrong with MIM parts -- they are just new. When the lock was new -- they were dead set against it from the get-go.

 

[shadow1]

Oh if I had a 66-7 and a 66-4 side by side, I would have picked the 66-4. But it's been a long time since I've seen a 66 for sale any where around here. Most likely the reason I didn't notice the lock on the side. I didn't do any research and if I had, it would have been gone when I went back.
I don't regret my buying it. It's mine now. I also have the whole alphabit now. J,K,L, and N. No X yet