Local store has a 66-1 for $700... should I jump on it?

I agree with those who would buy it if it checks out. Our likings have changed over the last 20 years from six-inch and longer barrels to snub-nose revolvers but the good old four-inch has always been a favorite. Possibly the best buy I ever made on an S&W K-frame was this Model 66-2. It isn't pinned or recessed and it has a very hard to see scuff on the lower forward corner of the right side of the frame just above the trigger guard but I'm sure I would have no trouble selling it for more than the $450 I have in it (its factory stocks weren't that handsome).

Ed
 

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If you like it. If you want it. That would be about the going rate around me. Hard to tell through glass but that gun looks to be in nice shape.
 
Hi all,

I was perusing the ammo selection at my local shop as I do with some frequency, and made the same move (mistake?) I always do, perusing the used gun counter, and I noticed they have this S&W 66-1 tucked back under the glass. It's wearing what looks like Hogue monogrips or similar, and the sticker says no original box. There was a bit of a line to get a cashier to help and I didn't have time to wait, but I'm considering going back tomorrow for a better look and to try to check the lock-up and timing and whatnot.

I recently picked up both a 19-4 in I'd say average condition, and a 10-6 that spent a decade or two in a NYPD duty-holster, (plus a Ruger Security Six), so I'm pretty flush on the K-frame or similar sized wheelguns, but I got the sense that a -1 (pinned and recessed I believe) Smith of any kind in what looks like pretty good shape might be worth snagging, if no reason other than to hold onto. I'm also in my early 30s so I figure the market/supply of these will be even more depleted 10-15 years from now and I'll probably be able to turn it around if I want to down the road without TOO much of a ding to the wallet, other than the obvious, less money for other purchases now.

What do you all think? If it's in good condition is a 66-1 (no box etc) worth $700? My gut says yes... secondary question, I have tended to gravitate towards blued guns but I know the stainless models are probably easier to clean/maintain without worrying too much about the finish. Do the wheelgun aficionados here prefer stainless over blue or vice versa? Any insight is appreciated. Thank you.

In the late 1980’s I bought a 66 no dash and it was my favorite gun. Fast forward a few years later I’m now married and have a kid, with NY gun laws and outrageous permit fees I had to give it up. Fast forward to 2025, I’m retired and living in a gun friendly state and I been thinking about my old 66. Last week I found one on gunbrokers long story short I found my exact gun and won it for $675 which was a steal. If you want a reliable, fun to shoot gun that’s extremely accurate and will only go up in value then yeah grab it. These guys are averaging around $850 to over $1000 depending on condition and what it comes with so go for it.
 

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Thats a fair price if you are looking for an early M66. If you don't own one I personally keep my K frames in .38spcl and save my .357's for the L frames. I've never been a fan of .357 K frames despite having owned a few, I think the tapered barrel K frames in .38 are where the K frame is at its best.
 
I would buy it if you want it. I would not sell mine for that.
I personally have never seen a M66 or M19 with a cracked forcing cone. I con’t think you would want to shoot full house .357s all the time any way. They kick and are loud.
If you reload, load +P pressure loads in .357 magnum cases. More than adequate for most purposes.
I have owned my M66 since the early 70s. It shot lots of rounds in qualifying, practice for, and just general shoooting over the years. Still works like the day it was born.

 
I'm not a fan of K frame .357s. Basically just glorified .38 specials with lengthened chambers that were never intended for much firing with .357 magnum ammunition. I would pass on it and look for an N frame, a 27 or 28. Before you spend your money on the 66, you better look for forcing cone cracks or general looseness. Others will disagree but years ago an LEO friend that was issued 19s and then 66s told me the 66s did not even hold up as well as the 19s.

I’ve been told that S&W used a harder alloy steel for the original 66. This came from an an armorer. I’ve only seen one 66 that that the cone cracked and that was a from a guy who would hot load his 357 mag cartridges. I love shooting 38’s and 38+P’s out of it, with pachmayr grips there’s practically no recoil.
 
I'm not a fan of K frame .357s. Basically just glorified .38 specials with lengthened chambers that were never intended for much firing with .357 magnum ammunition. I would pass on it and look for an N frame, a 27 or 28. Before you spend your money on the 66, you better look for forcing cone cracks or general looseness. Others will disagree but years ago an LEO friend that was issued 19s and then 66s told me the 66s did not even hold up as well as the 19s.

I’ve been told that S&W used a harder alloy steel for the original 66. This came from an an armorer. I’ve only seen one 66 that that the cone cracked and that was a from a guy who would hot load his 357 mag cartridges. I love shooting 38’s and 38+P’s out of it, with pachmayr grips there’s practically no recoil.
 
Thats a fair price if you are looking for an early M66. If you don't own one I personally keep my K frames in .38spcl and save my .357's for the L frames. I've never been a fan of .357 K frames despite having owned a few, I think the tapered barrel K frames in .38 are where the K frame is at its best.
The K-frame 357's were the result of law enforcement's desire for a 357 Magnum revolver that weighed less than the Model 27 and 28. When designed, most law enforcement range practice was conducted with 38 Special ammo, 357 Magnum ammo was fired only for qualification and in the line of duty.
The standard weight bullet for 357 at the time was the same as for the 38 Special, 158 grains. Under these conditions, the K-frame 357's held up well.

The weakness of the K-frame 357's came with law enforcement switching to 125 grain bullets for duty ammo in 357 and using the duty ammo for practice and qualification. The punishment dealt to the forcing cone by the full power, lightweight bullet ammo combined with the higher volume of this ammo being fired created severe forcing cone erosion and cracking of the thin, bottom edge of the forcing cone.
 
If you stay with 158 grain 357 rounds you shouldn’t have any problems with a cracked forcing cone. The 125 grain rounds were the ones causing damage to the forcing cone.
 
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The price is not a bargain, to me, but it’s fair - if the revolver is in nice shape. If I didn’t have one of those and I wanted one, I’d buy it.

I agree that K-frames are kickers with full-charge magnums, but I also agree with the “use as intended” theory. S&W made the Combat Magnum to be used sparingly with .357s. It’s a “magnum-capable .38” and that has always been perfectly fine with me. You already have a Model 27 if you want to shoot a lot of .357s.
 
I’ve been told that S&W used a harder alloy steel for the original 66. This came from an an armorer.

All stainless steel firearms are made with some carbon added to the alloy for increased hardness (which is why your "stainless steel" guns attract a magnet). That grade of stainless has numbers beginning with the numeral 4 - 416 or 4160 in the case of most firearms; pure stainless grades begin with the numeral 3. I suppose S&W could have specified additional carbon for their stainless handguns - it certainly makes sense.

Ed
 
I have fired away fairly heavy 357 loads in my K Frames. Factory and Handloads.
Mostly heavier bullets, 150 , 160 and 174s.
That was before I was informed/indoctrinated about the forcing cone situation.
One of our Astute Members says - ‘Knowledge comes from fear.’
Since I don’t scare that easy, now you know!
The only things that I readily admit being afraid of are Cancer and Women who weigh more than me!
 
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