Local store has a 66-1 for $700... should I jump on it?

Jboogie

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Hi all,

I was perusing the ammo selection at my local shop as I do with some frequency, and made the same move (mistake?) I always do, perusing the used gun counter, and I noticed they have this S&W 66-1 tucked back under the glass. It's wearing what looks like Hogue monogrips or similar, and the sticker says no original box. There was a bit of a line to get a cashier to help and I didn't have time to wait, but I'm considering going back tomorrow for a better look and to try to check the lock-up and timing and whatnot.

I recently picked up both a 19-4 in I'd say average condition, and a 10-6 that spent a decade or two in a NYPD duty-holster, (plus a Ruger Security Six), so I'm pretty flush on the K-frame or similar sized wheelguns, but I got the sense that a -1 (pinned and recessed I believe) Smith of any kind in what looks like pretty good shape might be worth snagging, if no reason other than to hold onto. I'm also in my early 30s so I figure the market/supply of these will be even more depleted 10-15 years from now and I'll probably be able to turn it around if I want to down the road without TOO much of a ding to the wallet, other than the obvious, less money for other purchases now.

What do you all think? If it's in good condition is a 66-1 (no box etc) worth $700? My gut says yes... secondary question, I have tended to gravitate towards blued guns but I know the stainless models are probably easier to clean/maintain without worrying too much about the finish. Do the wheelgun aficionados here prefer stainless over blue or vice versa? Any insight is appreciated. Thank you.
 

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Hi all,

I was perusing the ammo selection at my local shop as I do with some frequency, and made the same move (mistake?) I always do, perusing the used gun counter, and I noticed they have this S&W 66-1 tucked back under the glass. It's wearing what looks like Hogue monogrips or similar, and the sticker says no original box. There was a bit of a line to get a cashier to help and I didn't have time to wait, but I'm considering going back tomorrow for a better look and to try to check the lock-up and timing and whatnot.

I recently picked up both a 19-4 in I'd say average condition, and a 10-6 that spent a decade or two in a NYPD duty-holster, (plus a Ruger Security Six 😱), so I'm pretty flush on the K-frame or similar sized wheelguns, but I got the sense that a -1 (pinned and recessed I believe) Smith of any kind in what looks like pretty good shape might be worth snagging, if no reason other than to hold onto. I'm also in my early 30s so I figure the market/supply of these will be even more depleted 10-15 years from now and I'll probably be able to turn it around if I want to down the road without TOO much of a ding to the wallet, other than the obvious, less money for other purchases now.

What do you all think? If it's in good condition is a 66-1 (no box etc) worth $700? My gut says yes... secondary question, I have tended to gravitate towards blued guns but I know the stainless models are probably easier to clean/maintain without worrying too much about the finish. Do the wheelgun aficionados here prefer stainless over blue or vice versa? Any insight is appreciated. Thank you.
I will buy it if you don't.
 
Sounds like a good $. If you can examine the gun and check condition more knowledgeably, it will be a very good $. Be advised that surface condition in stainless revolvers can lead you astray since they tend to clean up more easily and look better in a showcase. I've seen stainless guns with loose innards that indicated wear while external surfaces were close to pristine.

Re stainless/blue, I have both 66s and 19s and am pleased with both types of finish. Hard for me to pass up a 4" 19 or 66 as they were the primo guns in the early 70s and IMO are the most handsome.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
I'm not a fan of K frame .357s. Basically just glorified .38 specials with lengthened chambers that were never intended for much firing with .357 magnum ammunition. I would pass on it and look for an N frame, a 27 or 28. Before you spend your money on the 66, you better look for forcing cone cracks or general looseness. Others will disagree but years ago an LEO friend that was issued 19s and then 66s told me the 66s did not even hold up as well as the 19s.
 
Brian Pearce who writes for Handloader and Rifle magazine and is undoubtedly the best gun writer to date says the K frame .357s should be looked at as .38 spls that can chamber .357 ammo and handloads should be limited to the 20,000 psi limit for +P 38 spl ammo. BTW, check the guns for sale in the forum classifieds for a bargain model 28-2 S prefix, late 60s mfg .357. Lot more likely to appreciate in value than the 66 glorified .38 spl with rubber grips.
 
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IMO a 66 is a "carry much and shoot not so much" if we're speaking of .357 magnums. Now .38 Spl, it is a shoot plenty of those. If you wish to shoot lots of the pricey .357 magnums, get an L or and N frame.

Around these parts, your dealer's asking price is pretty good; bet he'll negotiate if you wave 6 Bens and a Grant at him, hopefully OTD price.

Usual caveats apply; do all standard checks. Definitely check for forcing cone crack at 6'oclock.
 
I'm not a fan of K frame .357s. Basically just glorified .38 specials with lengthened chambers that were never intended for much firing with .357 magnum ammunition. I would pass on it and look for an N frame, a 27 or 28. Before you spend your money on the 66, you better look for forcing cone cracks or general looseness. Others will disagree but years ago an LEO friend that was issued 19s and then 66s told me the 66s did not even hold up as well as the 19s.

Regional areas make a big difference on gun prices.

Since you are in your early 30’s the 19 (and later 66 and 13) you may not know the original concepts were to be shot with .38 Special for practice with .357 Magnum for serious duty carry. Magnum ammunition, especially 125 gr. JHP’s is very hard on them with the barrel forcing cone cracking in only 2,000 rounds. So as a shooter with magnum ammunition there a lot better choices.

As for investment value it is a **** shoot (pun intended). I particularly like the K-Frame revolvers and the tea leaves in the bottom of my cup says as the Anti-2A States pass more and more restrictions on semiautomatic handguns gun owners will simply buy revolvers hence increasing demand and along with it prices.

Personally $700.00 is on high side for me. On the other hand I paid $600.00 for a used S&W Model 13-2 4” barrel with correct grips last November. However I have not seen Model 13’s for sale for a long time and it is right at home hanging on the wall with my fixed sight Colt, S&W and Taurus 4” barrel revolvers.
 
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$700 is a good not great price. It all depends on how much 357 you plan on shooting.
 
close to $8 bills out the door with tax and transfer fees....I'd look for a cheaper one, if your stuck on a K frame then more like $550-$600
 
By all means always try to negotiate the lowest possible price while being sure to NOT lose the opportunity to own something you like. I personally have walked away from guns that I deeply wish I had bought for a $50-100 difference.
 
close to $8 bills out the door with tax and transfer fees....I'd look for a cheaper one, if your stuck on a K frame then more like $550-$600

Its a local shop so no transfer fee, but definitely taxes. The 19-4 I picked up for $500 a couple months back has some holster wear but I liked that price a lot better, hah.
 
Regional areas make a big difference on gun prices.

Since you are in your early 30’s the 19 (and later 66 and 13) you may not know the original concepts were to be shot with .38 Special for practice with .357 Magnum for serious duty carry. Magnum ammunition, especially 125 gr. JHP’s is very hard on them with the barrel forcing cone cracking in only 2,000 rounds. So as a shooter with magnum ammunition there a lot better choices.

As for investment value it is a **** shoot (pun intended). I particularly like the K-Frame revolvers and the tea leaves in the bottom of my cup says as the Anti-2A States pass more and more restrictions on semiautomatic handguns gun owners will simply buy revolvers hence increasing demand and along with it prices.

Personally $700.00 is on high side for me. On the other hand I paid $600.00 for a used S&W Model 13-2 4” barrel with correct grips last November. However I have not seen Model 13’s for sale for a long time and it is right at home hanging on the wall with my fixed sight Colt, S&W and Taurus 4” barrel revolvers.

Thanks for the feedback. I know not to shoot much 357 out of an old K-Frame, and to only use even the 158gr loads sparingly. The 19-4 I picked up recently is primarily on 38spl duty as well, I have a Ruger Security Six and a 27-2 for Magnum duty, although I sorta treat the 27-2 like a Safe Queen because it's in nearly pristine shape. That one I paid $930 for and it hurt but I knew I couldn't let that one go.
 

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Absolutely a fair price. I picked up this one a month ago with a set of Pachs, nothing else, for the same price. I got the grips here to replace the ugly Pachs. It shows signs of riding in a holster but mechanically it's outstanding a ton of fun at the range. I only shoot .38s these days in K frames, I have my late dad's 686 for the rare times I want to shoot magnums. It's probably a 1979.

 
It's not a bad price, but only if it is mechanically sound and does not show significant erosion of the forcing cone.
 
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