66 no dash or 686-3?

[equivet]

Been lurking on the forum for a while and wanted to get some advice on my next S&W. Wanting to get a stainless model for in the woods, plinking, etc and found a shop that has the two models mentioned in the title, both 4", both in very good condition, both about the same price. I have a pristine model 19 and a 627 PC, so I've got two great shooters, one of which can handle all the 357 loads I'd ever want, so that advantage of the L frame is neither here nor there. Both fit my hand well and I don't find the size difference between the two significant. Wondering if either has a clear quality advantage over the other: for instance, did the no-dash 66s have any issues to worry about? Did the 686-3s have any changes for good or bad vs -2s? Should I wait around for a better model of either? Thanks in advance!

 

[stevieboy]

The 686 is a considerably more robust gun than the 66. It has a much beefier forcing cone and more metal in the frame. It can handle some of the hotter rounds -- both in terms of shooter comfort and in terms of wear and tear on the gun -- better than can the 66.

On the other hand, the 66 is going to be easier to carry than the 686 because it's lighter. I also personally think that the triggers on K-frame Smiths, including the 66, are superior to those on any other model, the 686 included, but that's just my subjective judgment.

Bottom line, they're each superb hand guns, each has its advantages and disadvantages. What you buy is ultimately a question of personal taste.

 

[NZshooter]

I've read that 66 no dashes had problems and the -3 is the best of the 686 series (though most will say the no dash 686 is the best, factory refit or not). Just what I've read in my vast wanderings of the Internet and seemingly reputable gun books; unfortunately I can't remember specifics but others FAR more knowledgeable than me will chime in.

If you've got a 19 then I'd go for the 686-3 just to be able to shoot the hotter loads. With the 19 you've already got the classic Smith, may as well have both of their best modern .357s... now you just need a 27

 

[semperfi71]

If it were me, if I had a line on a M66 no dash I'd be buying that and I could find a M686 easier later.

The M66 will handle any sensible .357 load (I'd stay away from the 125 grain and less). And it will increase in value even if you shoot it as long as you take care of it.

 

[old bear]

The M-66 is the quintessential carry a lot shoot a little revolver, so if you want a “backup” woods hiking revolver I would pick the M-66. If you want a revolver to shoot a lot especially with hotter .357 Magnum loads go with the 686, either way you will have a great firearm.

 

[Rogue686]

I have a 686 no dash and a 66-1. Both are very nice, excellent guns. However, the trigger pull on my 686 no dash is very smooth compared to that of the 66-1.

Because of that, I prefer my 686...but every gun is different, and everyone has their own preferences. I would say go with the one that balances a little bit better in your hand. I found my 686 with a full underlug balances a little better than my 66-1 with no full underlug. But that's just me.

 

[BobR1]

Hard decision.
Myself I would be shooting 38 Specials out of either gun 99.9% of the time. My woods carry 64 HB 4" normally has 2 shotshells in it all Summer for snakes followed with 4 semi wadcutters.
If I recall correctly I believe the 66 had a recall due to locking up with Federal brand 357 ammo. Primers flowing back around the firing pin. I had one in the late 70's that I had issues with the cylinder locking up on myself.
In 2011 I would have gotten on this site and asked about the problem, and in short order I would have the answer of what the problem was, and a phone number to contact S&W to send it back in. In 1978 I just traded it off not knowing what the problem was.

Shooting 38 Specials or hard primer 357 loads you would probably never have any problems with it fixed or not. Look in the Yoke for an M stamp for modified. I am working off the top of my head here, and could be mistaken about the model.

My Opinion Here
Any real difference between the two will be mainly size and weight as long as you are only shooting 38 Specials in them. If I had any intentions of shooting any quantity of 357 Magnum ammo, I would go with the 686 for strength. The factory trigger pull could be better on either gun than the other. I have a 64 that has a great trigger with me doing a little smoothing and a Wolfe spring set. I also have a 686 with a great trigger done by Ron Power. As long as they are timed OK, and lock up tight the trigger can be made better on either gun.

Bob

 

[murphydog]

You mentioned you have a model 19; if you really like this obviously the model 66 will be very similar. BobR1 mentioned the early model 66s locking up with shooting, and this was a problem with extensive rapid fire and heat buildup. The early 686s up to the -1 had the primer flowback issue, which the -3 will not have due to upgraded parts.

Personally, with equal prices, I would opt for the model 66, but you wouldn't go wrong with the 686 either. Hope this is helpful.

 

[AveragEd]

I echo what a lot of the others have said. The Model 66 is a nicer carry gun and unless you get nuts with the ammo and shoot lots of it, it will stand up well for you. To me, the biggest issue here is that the Model 66 is no longer made while the Model 686 is, albeit in an MIM, IL form.

The triggers on the two models are the same part, so the fit of the sears would be what makes one trigger feel better than another. The hammers, however, are different.

I have a Model 66-4 in 2-1/2" and 66-2s in 4" and 6". I also have a half-dozen Model 686s in 4" and 6". My favorite "shooter" is my 6" Model 66.

Ed

 

[Jeff45]

As most have said, they are both excellent revolvers, but I would go with the 686. The 686-3 was the best of the bunch with the wood grips, old thumb latch, forged hammer and trigger, hammer firing pin, no lock, and no MIM.

Which ever you choose, be sure to check the lock-up, cylinder to barrel clearance, forcing cone flame-cutting, timing, barrel bore, and frame and yoke for cracks.

 

[equivet]

Thanks for all the quick feedback. I am leaning toward the 686, mainly because I don't have an L-frame, but have to admit, the 66 is sexier. Think maybe I'll go back and check each out a little more thoroughly and see if there is any significant difference in lock-up, timing, or trigger.

 

[JohnAC]

Ok, I'll say it... Buy both.

Neither one of these guns will be in danger of doing down in value. Shoot them both, get comfortable with each, and keep the one that you feel fits you better. Or keep both and come to terms with your expensive hobby.