I just got my new to me 686-2 and cleaned it all up. The single action pull is simply amazing. But I don’t know what to think about the double action pull. The DA pull feels almost like a 2 stage trigger. It pulls nice and smooth all the way up to the end. Then it stops and takes a good bit more weight before it breaks. The good part is I could pull all the way though and hold it. Then I could pull the trigger the last bit right when I want to fire. I guess that does have its advantages for target shooting. But I though DA should be long and smooth all the way through. Kind of one steady pull from start to finish. That is basically what my 642 is like. Should the 686 be smooth all the way through like my 642 or is it made to be more like a 2 stage trigger where it stacks right before letting off?
686-2 double action trigger pull
- Thread starter rc51kid
- Start date
ballistic
Member
A lot of Colts will have a double action trigger pull that gets heavier near the end, called stacking. A S&W revolver should not do this. It really should be like your 642 but, better. The small J frames usually have a heavier pull than a K,L, or N frame.
If you have never been inside the sideplate before, you should have a good gunsmith take a look at it. He can check it out, and maybe smooth it out for you. It just might become your favorite gun after that.
If you have never been inside the sideplate before, you should have a good gunsmith take a look at it. He can check it out, and maybe smooth it out for you. It just might become your favorite gun after that.
HspncElvis
Member
A friend bought a 686 7 shot revolver. I put about 28 rounds through it. I recall the double action trigger being smooth all the way through. Single action I'd say is about 4lbs. Had a good recoil and muzzle flash. A very nice gun and a lot of fun.
skeezix
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Floating hand?
The 'floating hand' was introduced on the 686-1. I asked about it last year and this is the answer I got from a SWF member:
The floating hand was supposed to address timing problems and to simplify the final fitting of the revolver. It was supposed to center itself in the hand window and was not supposed to be so sensitive to the width of the hand. What it did do, among other things, was give a really poor double action pull. Some of the floating hand guns run fine, but many don't. The good thing is that you can drift the floating hand's pivot pin out of the trigger and use a regular hand.
I don't know if the 'floating hand' was still in the dash two models, but if it was, that may be the reason for the poor double action pull on your gun.
I had a 586-1 and the effort to cock the hammer and pull the trigger in double action was noticeably more.
The 'floating hand' was introduced on the 686-1. I asked about it last year and this is the answer I got from a SWF member:
The floating hand was supposed to address timing problems and to simplify the final fitting of the revolver. It was supposed to center itself in the hand window and was not supposed to be so sensitive to the width of the hand. What it did do, among other things, was give a really poor double action pull. Some of the floating hand guns run fine, but many don't. The good thing is that you can drift the floating hand's pivot pin out of the trigger and use a regular hand.
I don't know if the 'floating hand' was still in the dash two models, but if it was, that may be the reason for the poor double action pull on your gun.
I had a 586-1 and the effort to cock the hammer and pull the trigger in double action was noticeably more.
thanks for the info guys. I will look for a good smith to do the trigger job. Any ideas of who is the best to use? I would like some one local to Atlanta but i will ship if i need to. I would want it done right. If it is something i can do myself i would be more than willing to do that. I have several nice stones, everything from super fine to course. Any input?
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