686-6: Heavy leading in barrel and cone

SquarePizza

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I have a 686 that leads pretty heavy. All this time I just kept cleaning it and figuring I had the velocity wrong for the load.

It is a 3" barrel with very heavy leading from the forcing cone and continues about 1.5" up the barrel. There is also heavy lead deposits on/around the right hand side of the forcing and frame, but not the left side.

The load- Missouri bullet co 158 gr swc over bullseye at approx 1100 fps.

When I run it through my model 27, zero leading is found. So now I am doubting it is the load, rather something isn't correct on my 686.

Can anyone shed some light on my leading issues?
 
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I wonder if the cylinder throats are too big. I had the same issue with my Colt SAA. I solved the problem by using larger diameter bullets and Trail Boss Powder. See if a standard .38 falls thru the cylinder, if it does then there is your problem. I never heard of it on a 686 , but anything is possible.
 
Check all chambers with a Range Rod and make sure all are aligned properly.

I switched over to RNL bullets years ago and found that they lead less than the SWC's do primarily due to the sharp edges of the SWC vs the gradual shape of the RNL. Other than the fact that the RNL does not cut nice clean holes I find them the best for everything except Hunting and SD.

You also did not state weather you were using .38 Special length cases or .357 Magnums. When shooting .38 Specials in a Magnum Revolver they tend to lead up more because the cylinder is longer and the bullet has to go through more of the chamber length.

Use a Lewis Lead Remover to make quick work of your leading and try some RNL 158's.
 
686 leading

There is also heavy lead deposits on/around the right hand side of the forcing and frame, but not the left side.

Like chief38 was alluding to, alignment (cylinder to bore) may be an issue from what you've stated. Also check the common causes: chamber throat size/roughness, as well as forcing cone roughness.

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A couple more things to look at are the condition of the forcing cone and the type of rifling.

If the forcing cone was cut with a dull cutter you will see a lot of galling and subsequent leading. So, look for deep grooving in the forcing cone. The fix for this is to have the factory re-cut it under warranty and your 686-6 does have the lifetime warranty. BTW, DO NOT tell them you've been shooting reloads, technically that voids the warranty and IMO it's none of their business what you've been shooting. If they insist on knowing tell them you got a deal on Blazer LRN.

Second potential issue is the type of rifling. If your barrel was ECM rifled it will be EXTREMELY sensitive to the lubrication you use on your bullets. I tried some of the above mentioned Blazer LRN in my model 620 and the ECM barrel leaded up so horribly in 50 rounds that it took 12 hours of scrubbing to get it cleaned out. Look closely at the rifling and if it has rounded radii blending the grooves and lands you have an ECM rifled barrel. If so, you'll need to add some supplemental lube to your bullets. Unfortunately, I don't have a clue on what type or brand, simply that the ECM barrels can shoot lead if properly lubed. My personal response to this problem is to shoot jacketed or plated bullets in my 620 and can report it doesn't lead up at all when used with plated bullets. If you don't want to use plated bullets another option would be to try some of the new powder coated bullets, by all accounts they work great and are available in a rainbow of colors. BTW, call me old fashioned but to me there is something just plain WRONG with Red, Green, Blue, and Yellow bullets so don't look for me to try any of these rainbow loads.

BTW, I am just now starting with reloading Berry's Hard Cast so I can work up some loads for Cowboy Action Shooting. So, I can sort of relate because I do not want to face the leading issues I saw with that cheap Blazer ammo in my 620. Knowing that the ECM barrels are sensitive to leading I do NOT intend to try any of the Cowboy loads in the 620 and will limit my testing to my Winchester 1892 and my 357 Magnum revolvers with traditional cut rifling.
 
I have a 686 that leads pretty heavy. All this time I just kept cleaning it and figuring I had the velocity wrong for the load.

It is a 3" barrel with very heavy leading from the forcing cone and continues about 1.5" up the barrel. There is also heavy lead deposits on/around the right hand side of the forcing and frame, but not the left side.

The load- Missouri bullet co 158 gr swc over bullseye at approx 1100 fps.

When I run it through my model 27, zero leading is found. So now I am doubting it is the load, rather something isn't correct on my 686.

Can anyone shed some light on my leading issues?

My 686 throats were only .356, maybe .3565, so I had them reamed to .3575. It helped, but I also learned to use #18 hardness for serious .357 velocities and stay away from cowboy at #12, unless, I suppose, for a short barrel or relatively light recoil.
 
To remove the leading, get some Chore Boy all copper scouring pads. Cut off some material and wrap it around a bore brush for a very tight fit in the barrel. Will remove leading easily.

Sounds like an alignment problem. Have it checked with a range rod.
 
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