686-6 trigger "grit"?

[wheelyfun66]

Hey All,
I have a relatively new 686-6 snub.
I bought it used, but the previous owner must have barely EVER fired it (based on condition).
First owner DID pull the lock and install "the plug".

I've only put about 150 rounds through it, and never had the side plate off.

While dry firing today (with snap caps), I seemed to notice a gritty noise when the trigger is first pulled. Seems like the noise happens before the trigger is actually pulled (when hard pressure is applied, but before trigger is actually moving rearward).

Perhaps this is too vague?

Question: Can grit/metallic burrs have moved around inside this revolver?

I suppose now would be a good time to remove my first-ever side plate?

Any recommendations as to internal maintenance, while side plate is off?

Thanks!

 

[wheelyfun66]

Well....
I'm not a side plate virgin anymore!
Pulled the side plate and inspected for grit & metal shavings.

I didn't spot any large pieces, but the inside is kind of dirty and also has some spots of orange-reddish "stuff".

I don't think that this is surface rust, but it is....something!

The crane also had some of this sticky reddish stuff, so....

I'll spray it all with some gun cleaner, use some pointy Q-tips to swab it all out, and then blow it all out with some compressed air.

?Should I lube the internals lightly?
With what?

Thanks!

 

[chief38]

There are a a bunch of reasons you can be getting a gritty sensation when the trigger is pulled. You could have a situation where the Hand that comes through the Frame Window is scraping and not moving freely. You could have a badly fitted Trigger or Hammer, your Cylinder could be binding or your Rebound Slide could be rough, so on and so forth. With out actually seeing it, I am just throwing out some possibilities. If you are not familiar or good at diagnosing Revolver problems I'd bring it to a QUALIFIED GS or send it back to S&W.

Since you state that you have already removed the Side Plate clean out any and all surface rust and debris, then lubricate sparingly with a good gun oil. I like Rig #2 Oil or Remoil because they evaporate and leave behind protection and lubricant without attracting dust and dirt. Use what you like, but I would stay away from grease. Operate the mechanism SLOWLY and watch and feel for your problem. You need to pull back the Thumb Latch if the Cylinder is not in the gun to operate. Make sure you are careful that the Hammer does not hit the Frame and chip it - because it is free to move out when the Side Plate is removed.

 

[wheelyfun66]

If you are not familiar or good at diagnosing Revolver problems I'd bring it to a QUALIFIED GS or send it back to S&W.

Thank you Sir, for your helpful post!
It's not nearly "bad" enough to warrant a trip to S&W, but simply my overzealous observations and OCD.

I'll report back after cleaning and lube of internals!

 

[wheelyfun66]

Follow up: removed internals, cleaned with toothbrush and Q-tips.

Lubed contact points, and......trigger now feels like an L frame should!

Now I am familiar with dis assembly and won't be afraid to do it periodically.

I won't overdue it.....but it feels good to be able to do basic maintenance (familiar with semi autos....but revolver internals have eluded me until now)

 

[chief38]

wheelyfun66:

The great thing about Smith Revolvers is that they are all pretty much the same. Some have recoil springs and most leaf type but most all are quite similar. Once you get the hang of it you will no longer be afraid to take them apart for cleaning, lubrication, smoothing or diagnosing a problem. Good for you!