686 lockup

[roughcreek]

I recently purchased a used 686 no dash. Everyhting appeared fine, smooth action, nice trigger. I took it to the range and put one cylinder of target 38 wadcutters through it. During shooting the cylinder gradually got harder to turn, Didn't take the 6th shot. Cylinder was hard to open. Ejected and inspected the cases. Primers normal, no primer flow evident. With no cases in the cylinder it was still hard to close and rotate. Cleaned the gun good, including the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield. Cylinder still hard to turn, altho getting better. Did not get a free turning cylinder until I had scrubbed the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield with a bronze brush. I am aware of the "no dash" recall (this one is not stamped), but was of the impression that that was due to primer reflow into the firing pin bushing causing lockup. Mine is hard to turn with no cases in the cylinder and no readiliy apparent cause of the binding.
Any suggestions before I call S&W. Thanks.

 

[roughcreek]

I recently purchased a used 686 no dash. Everyhting appeared fine, smooth action, nice trigger. I took it to the range and put one cylinder of target 38 wadcutters through it. During shooting the cylinder gradually got harder to turn, Didn't take the 6th shot. Cylinder was hard to open. Ejected and inspected the cases. Primers normal, no primer flow evident. With no cases in the cylinder it was still hard to close and rotate. Cleaned the gun good, including the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield. Cylinder still hard to turn, altho getting better. Did not get a free turning cylinder until I had scrubbed the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield with a bronze brush. I am aware of the "no dash" recall (this one is not stamped), but was of the impression that that was due to primer reflow into the firing pin bushing causing lockup. Mine is hard to turn with no cases in the cylinder and no readiliy apparent cause of the binding.
Any suggestions before I call S&W. Thanks.

 

[john traveler]

Make sure your extractor rod is not loosening up during firing.

With gun empty, hold gun up to a light source and cycle the action. Observe that the locking bolt drops down as the cylinder starts to turn. Watch the barrel-to-cylinder (B-C) gap. It should be uniform, and measure about 0.005" to 0.006" or a little more. Carbon and lead firing residue at the forcing cone and cylinder face can cause the action to tighten up. Also, remove the crane and cylinder assembly, clean the crane axle and cylinder bore thoroughly, and lightly lubricate. Dried oil and firing residue here can tighten up action too.

 

[Joni_Lynn]

You may have some dirt under the extractor which is holding the extractor out from the cylinder just enough to cause the problem.
If that's it, clean the cylinder under the extractor and clean the back side of the extractor.

 

[Alk8944]

Originally posted by roughcreek:
I recently purchased a used 686 no dash. Everyhting appeared fine, smooth action, nice trigger. I took it to the range and put one cylinder of target 38 wadcutters through it. During shooting the cylinder gradually got harder to turn, Didn't take the 6th shot. Cylinder was hard to open. Ejected and inspected the cases. Primers normal, no primer flow evident. With no cases in the cylinder it was still hard to close and rotate. Cleaned the gun good, including the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield. Cylinder still hard to turn, altho getting better. Did not get a free turning cylinder until I had scrubbed the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield with a bronze brush. I am aware of the "no dash" recall (this one is not stamped), but was of the impression that that was due to primer reflow into the firing pin bushing causing lockup. Mine is hard to turn with no cases in the cylinder and no readiliy apparent cause of the binding.
Any suggestions before I call S&W. Thanks.

The most likely, as Joni said, is debris under the extractor. Bet when you extracted the fired cases you did it with the muzzle pointing down and picked them out one at a time, didn't you?

First, Hold the muzzle up when extracting brass and let them fall into your free hand, the bench, etc. This tends to keep un-burned powder in the case instead of falling onto the back of the cylinder and under the extractor.

Second, carry an old toothbrush with you, just like you should have a cleaning rod, bore brush and a squib rod, just in case. If things seem a little tight just push and hold the extractor out and use the toothbrush to brush out the extractor recess and back of the extractor. A loose extractor rod can enter into this too, but much less likely than stuff under the extractor.

If you do find the extractor rod loose DO NOT use pilers to tighten it, it takes just once to mar the rod or it's knurling beyond help. Instead carry a small piece of leather, like a belt, to wrap around and hold the rod. If at home hold the rod in a vise while wrapped with the leather to protect it and tighten the rod. On all guns made after 1965 or so the rod threads are left-handed as shown by a narrow smooth area surrounding the rod behind the knurling.

 

[Skip357]

You could have a loose gas ring.

 

[roughcreek]

Joni hit it. Looking under the extractor with a glass I could see what looked like burrs on the outside edge of all the cylinders. When I scrapped them it turned out to be lead. Scrapped off the nose of bullets maybe?? Anyway, I bronze brushed under the extractor and believe it seats farther in now.
Thanks to all for the input. Thanks Joni.