686 Plus hammer/trigger problem

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magnumpete

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I have a 4" 686 Plus (-6). A while ago, I had an action job done on it. When I got it back, when I pulled the hammer back to shoot S/A, the hammer would click, the cylinder would lock - but there was still another 1/4" of pull before the hammer would click all the way back in place. An unsettling feeling. I recently noticed when the hammer is pulled back to shoot S/A, with not much pressure, the hammer can be pushed forward with my thumb (not pulling the trigger). Everything seems to work fine shooting D/A. Unfortunately the gunsmith who did the work is no longer around so before finding another 'smith, would like to try the fix myself. I'm not a gunsmith. Can anybody tell me if this could be as simple as replacing some parts (with part suggestions) or am I better off taking it to another gunsmith for the fix? I've taken the side plate off. To my untrained eye, could not see any problem.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
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I have a 4" 686 Plus (-6). A while ago, I had an action job done on it. When I got it back, when I pulled the hammer back to shoot S/A, the hammer would click, the cylinder would lock - but there was still another 1/4" of pull before the hammer would click all the way back in place. An unsettling feeling. I recently noticed when the hammer is pulled back to shoot S/A, with not much pressure, the hammer can be pushed forward with my thumb (not pulling the trigger). Everything seems to work fine shooting D/A. Unfortunately the gunsmith who did the work is no longer around so before finding another 'smith, would like to try the fix myself. I'm not a gunsmith. Can anybody tell me if this could be as simple as replacing some parts (with part suggestions) or am I better off taking it to another gunsmith for the fix? I've taken the side plate off. To my untrained eye, could not see any problem.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
It sounds like your revolver has developed a "pushoff" problem: too light SA sear engagement. First thing to check is the mainspring tension screw to assure that it is full length and the mainspring is full strength.

The pushoff is probably from someone stoning the hammer fullcock notch and/or the trigger nose sear. Either one is bad news and may require replacement of the hammer and/or trigger.

With the sideplate off, remove and examine the hammer full cock notch. Does it show signs of stoning? Does the trigger nose show signs of stoning? If yes, the easiest remedy is to replace those components. It's possible, though not easy, to re-stone the parts, re-harden them, and get them to work properly. You will need to spefify to S&W (or whatever parts supplier) your exact model and dash configuration to get the right parts.
 
Thanks. That sounds like the problem, exactly. After the action job, the gun had a real real smooth action. There is no mention of parts replacement on the receipt so would doubt the main spring was replaced, though could have been. Bet the trigger/hammer were stoned too much. The problem started immedately so was obviously a result of the work. After taking the side plate off, if I can tell that the hammer and trigger were stoned, may try to replace them myself. Not up to doing any stoning myself. If I'm unsure of anything, will take to another gunsmith.
 
Originally posted by magnumpete:
Thanks. That sounds like the problem, exactly. After the action job, the gun had a real real smooth action. There is no mention of parts replacement on the receipt so would doubt the main spring was replaced, though could have been. Bet the trigger/hammer were stoned too much. The problem started immedately so was obviously a result of the work. After taking the side plate off, if I can tell that the hammer and trigger were stoned, may try to replace them myself. Not up to doing any stoning myself. If I'm unsure of anything, will take to another gunsmith.
Click to expand...
Hammers and triggers are rarely, if ever drop in replacement parts, they most often have to be fitted by someone who knows what they are doing(Factory-Gunsmith). Its also rarely a good ideal to stone the single action cocking notch on a hammer, during an action job...Good Luck!
 
If this is a MIM FMFP gun, a new hammer and/or trigger will usually just drop in. The MIM parts normally don't require the fitting the forged parts required.
 
It is a MIM gun, a 686 Plus with "686-6" stamped on the frame. I could order the hammer and trigger and see if they do drop right in. If not, then take to a gunsmith and have them fitted. Was wondering if there would be any fitting needed.
 
Originally posted by magnumpete:
It is a MIM gun, a 686 Plus with "686-6" stamped on the frame. I could order the hammer and trigger and see if they do drop right in. If not, then take to a gunsmith and have them fitted. Was wondering if there would be any fitting needed.
Click to expand...
Frequently the front, bottom corner of the sear is beveled slightly. If the sear in the gun now has the corner beveled, install that sear on the new hammer. New MIM hammers are usually assemblies and come with a sear installed.
 
Any "gunsmith" who creates a push off while doing an action job needs to no longer be around. Before any more action work replace your hammer and trigger(without examination no one can tell which one is damaged)then just shoot it, clean it, lube it, shoot it, clean it, lube it.....you get the idea. After about 500 rounds if it still needs an action job; consider it just don't be in a hurry to have it done. Most Smiths really slick up with a routine like I suggested and springs can be replaced cheaply and easily if you feel the need(I alter mine to suit me).
 
You can bobb the hammer and shoot only double action (single action is for beginners
icon_biggrin.gif
) Just kidding. I shoot DA all the time and I have two 686 guns with the hammer cut on them. One has a < 4 pound trigger pull on DA, and the other is < than 5 pounds.
Picture6001.jpg

The one on the bottom is the light trigger and the middle one is the 9mm now. Pic was before it was worked over.
 
Funny, I have thought of bobbing the hammer. Would like the option of shooting S/A, though. Will order a hammer and trigger and take it from there. Will assume S&W is the best place to get the parts considering the gun is only a few years old.
 
Originally posted by magnumpete:
It is a MIM gun, a 686 Plus with "686-6" stamped on the frame. I could order the hammer and trigger and see if they do drop right in. If not, then take to a gunsmith and have them fitted. Was wondering if there would be any fitting needed.
Click to expand...
SW might fix it for free (you could ask them). Just tell them you have a push-off problem and don't mention the gun butcher who probably caused it. I don't know if they supply hammer/trigger sets to owners because of legal liability issues. I think SW classifies those as gunsmith-only parts and they will likely want to install it to make sure it works right. Maybe not, you can ask and see what they say.
 
Originally posted by bountyhunter:
Originally posted by magnumpete:
It is a MIM gun, a 686 Plus with "686-6" stamped on the frame. I could order the hammer and trigger and see if they do drop right in. If not, then take to a gunsmith and have them fitted. Was wondering if there would be any fitting needed.
Click to expand...
I don't know if they supply hammer/trigger sets to owners because of legal liability issues. Those are generally classified as gunsmith-only parts and they will likely want to install it to make sure it works right.
Click to expand...
They are not sold as sets, they are sold individually and are NOT gunsmith only. He even has a choice of trigger widths.
 
Originally posted by magnumpete:
Funny, I have thought of bobbing the hammer. Would like the option of shooting S/A, though. Will order a hammer and trigger and take it from there. Will assume S&W is the best place to get the parts considering the gun is only a few years old.
Click to expand...
If the prices at Numrich are current, you can figure on dropping about $100+ total or more for a factory trigger and hammer for a 686. You might want to see if SW will fix it under warranty and save some $$$.

http://www.e-gunparts.com/prod...sterModel=1980z686-3


As for fitting MIM parts: the DA sears in my MIM guns definitely were fitted at the factory... in one case, improperly fitted. Point is, you either have to get a hammer with a DA sear already fitted or transfer the old DA sear to the new hammer and hope it works OK. The DA sears on MIM hammers are not pinned in like the old ones, they are easy to get out but don't lose the little spring inside.
 
If I could swing it, would be great to have S&W fix the problem under warranty. I am the original owner. Gunsmith, what gunsmith ...... I guess the worse that could happen is they get the gun, tell me it has been stoned, fix it and charge me. Would probably be out all the shipping then, though.

I have searched Brownells and Numrich. Unless I missed something, what 686 parts they had were for the earlier firing pin models, not the late model transfer bar -6.

I had the same folks do my 6" 686 Plus. Also had a gold bead patridge front site installed. They did an awsume job - has an action like an old Python. Too bad about this one.
 
Originally posted by magnumpete:
If I could swing it, would be great to have S&W fix the problem under warranty. I am the original owner. Gunsmith, what gunsmith ...... I guess the worse that could happen is they get the gun, tell me it has been stoned, fix it and charge me.
Click to expand...
You could ask them and see before you ship it out. From what I have read, SW is very generous about fixing their guns for the original owner. YMMV
 
Thanks again for the help. I think I just may try replacing the parts myself, first. tomcatt51, can I assume the links you forwarded, even though the 686-6 is not mentioned under any of the parts, they would fit it?
 
Originally posted by magnumpete:
Thanks again for the help. I think I just may try replacing the parts myself, first. tomcatt51, can I assume the links you forwarded, even though the 686-6 is not mentioned under any of the parts, they would fit it?
Click to expand...
Should be the right parts for an MIM 686. I pulled the #'s from S&W's parts catalog and turned those #'s into Brownell's #'s. Triggers are common between K, L, and N frames. Hammers are frame specific, L frame hammers only fit L frames etc.
 
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