Got a few S&W M&P's. Been doing some thinking about getting a revolver, most likely a .357 mag 686 with a 6" barrel. Been reading about "pre-lock" models being more desirable. So, what years should I be looking for. And exactly what do the "plus" and "-" dashes mean? Thanks.
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Birdhunter6
Member
The integral lock was introduced in 2001.
Plus means a 7 round cylinder instead of the standard 6.
Dash numbers indicate an engineering change. A no dash gun is the original design. The higher the - number the more recent the design. Some changes were considered improvements but some were cost cutting measures.
Most revolver fans have old school attitudes. Older is considered better. "They don't make 'em like they used to." I am no different. My dislike for the post lock guns is based as much on lesser fit, finish and quality standards as it is on the lock itself.
The 686 is a great revolver. Good luck in your search.
Plus means a 7 round cylinder instead of the standard 6.
Dash numbers indicate an engineering change. A no dash gun is the original design. The higher the - number the more recent the design. Some changes were considered improvements but some were cost cutting measures.
Most revolver fans have old school attitudes. Older is considered better. "They don't make 'em like they used to." I am no different. My dislike for the post lock guns is based as much on lesser fit, finish and quality standards as it is on the lock itself.
The 686 is a great revolver. Good luck in your search.
Dashes indicate update during a model run.
The Trigger Lock went into effect in 2000/2001. S&W agreed to gun legislation measures during the Clinton admin. Since it went into effect every S&W revolver has the integrated lock mechanism accessible with a supplied key thru the sidewall, just above the cylinder release button.
'Pre-lock' is basically every revolver prior to this implementation.
Desirability is based on preference and may not reflect a majority here or there.
Some remove the lock and insert a cap to plug the hole in the sidewall.
A viable compromise which renders any mfg warranty as void and the firearm possibly illegal in certain states (aka California).
Ps, it needs to be pointed out that older revolvers (pre-lock) also have other features that went away aside from 'lock' or 'no lock'. Notable as an example would be the firing pin on the hammer or pinned barrels etc.
Enthusiasts can tell about more details.
The Trigger Lock went into effect in 2000/2001. S&W agreed to gun legislation measures during the Clinton admin. Since it went into effect every S&W revolver has the integrated lock mechanism accessible with a supplied key thru the sidewall, just above the cylinder release button.
'Pre-lock' is basically every revolver prior to this implementation.
Desirability is based on preference and may not reflect a majority here or there.
Some remove the lock and insert a cap to plug the hole in the sidewall.
A viable compromise which renders any mfg warranty as void and the firearm possibly illegal in certain states (aka California).
Ps, it needs to be pointed out that older revolvers (pre-lock) also have other features that went away aside from 'lock' or 'no lock'. Notable as an example would be the firing pin on the hammer or pinned barrels etc.
Enthusiasts can tell about more details.
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Most comments will say the no dash to the dash -4 are the most desirable.
No Lock, No MIM, hammer mounted firing pin w/ frame "shape" change.
Many folks after 20 years no longer care and are OK with the changes introduced with the -5 guns.
No dash and -1s had a firing pin bushing issue with "hot" 125gr .357 ammo; and many have a "M" on the yoke indicating a return to the factory or service center.
Mine are all -4 or earlier...... most were bought pre -5s I'm ambivalent as I in all probability won't be buying anymore/1
Good luck in you search; the 4" L-frame 686, and blue 586, are IMHO the best utility/duty/general purpose revolvers ever offered. Grip frame and trigger reach of the K-frame and strength of the N-frame.
No Lock, No MIM, hammer mounted firing pin w/ frame "shape" change.
Many folks after 20 years no longer care and are OK with the changes introduced with the -5 guns.
No dash and -1s had a firing pin bushing issue with "hot" 125gr .357 ammo; and many have a "M" on the yoke indicating a return to the factory or service center.
Mine are all -4 or earlier...... most were bought pre -5s I'm ambivalent as I in all probability won't be buying anymore/1
Good luck in you search; the 4" L-frame 686, and blue 586, are IMHO the best utility/duty/general purpose revolvers ever offered. Grip frame and trigger reach of the K-frame and strength of the N-frame.
Most comments will say the no dash to the dash -4 are the most desirable.
No Lock, No MIM, hammer mounted firing pin, w/out the frame "shape" change.
Many folks after 20 years no longer care and are OK with the changes introduced with the -5 and later guns.
No dash and -1s had a firing pin bushing issue with "hot" 125gr .357 ammo; and many have a "M" on the yoke indicating a return to the factory or service center.
Mine are all -4 or earlier...... most were bought pre -5s. I'm ambivalent as I in all probability won't be buying anymore/1
Good luck in you search; the 4" L-frame 686, and blue 586, are IMHO the best utility/duty/general purpose revolvers ever offered. Grip frame and trigger reach of the K-frame and strength of the N-frame.
No Lock, No MIM, hammer mounted firing pin, w/out the frame "shape" change.
Many folks after 20 years no longer care and are OK with the changes introduced with the -5 and later guns.
No dash and -1s had a firing pin bushing issue with "hot" 125gr .357 ammo; and many have a "M" on the yoke indicating a return to the factory or service center.
Mine are all -4 or earlier...... most were bought pre -5s. I'm ambivalent as I in all probability won't be buying anymore/1
Good luck in you search; the 4" L-frame 686, and blue 586, are IMHO the best utility/duty/general purpose revolvers ever offered. Grip frame and trigger reach of the K-frame and strength of the N-frame.
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If you live in a state that allows purchases from out-of-state via online auction and shipped to your FFL you have good choices.
We in CA have the detrimental Handgun Roster which is regularly updated and dictates what can be imported into the state, new or used alike.
When it comes to pre-lock S&W revolvers, only those that are already registered in the state can be PPT-ed, consigned or otherwise sold/bought.
That reduces available options dramatically.
We in CA have the detrimental Handgun Roster which is regularly updated and dictates what can be imported into the state, new or used alike.
When it comes to pre-lock S&W revolvers, only those that are already registered in the state can be PPT-ed, consigned or otherwise sold/bought.
That reduces available options dramatically.
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quikdraw67
Member
I have a no dash no M overstamp 4" and a dash 2 6". Square butt with Goncalo Alves grips.
I'm sure the newer guns are good, but they don't have the visual appeal of the older 686's.
JMHO YMMV
I'm sure the newer guns are good, but they don't have the visual appeal of the older 686's.
JMHO YMMV
I picked this one up on the 9th of this month.
As described in another post, I debated quite a bit with myself, talked myself out of it, than talked myself back into it. I had to make 3 trips to the GS next town over. It's a -5 and a real nice, lightly used sample as such. Aside from the firing pin, now frame mounted it still qualifies.
I am pretty happy about it, especially knowing that availability is scarce.
As described in another post, I debated quite a bit with myself, talked myself out of it, than talked myself back into it. I had to make 3 trips to the GS next town over. It's a -5 and a real nice, lightly used sample as such. Aside from the firing pin, now frame mounted it still qualifies.
I am pretty happy about it, especially knowing that availability is scarce.
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S&W-Keeper
Member
Love the 686,I bought the first one that I saw when they came out,
After my original post - I feel like such a traitor. Sometimes things just move fast. Found a 6" 686-4 just like wanted on the net. Went in to local gun store to ask about a transfer. Owner was busy, so I looked at the used gun display case, and what was sitting there? A brand new, never fired, 6" Colt Python. It came home with me!
I would prefer that guns have no lock. But as a journeyman machinist I am fine with the older or newer guns. I find the machine on modern gun to generally be better. CNC's with carbide or ceramic tooling cuts better and holds up longer the high speed steel does in my experience. I find the older guns had more time spent in the assembling guns then they do now. As parts no not need as much hand finishing and fitting now as they did.
If it makes you happy, it's a win-win situation.
There was a time I was certain never to be attracted to any semi-automatic hand gun. Today I wish there was a Colt 1911 among the 1/2 dozen 1911s occupying safe.
The Gila Bender
Member
Look for an early to mid-1990's 686 dash 3 or dash 4 with "B" or "C" serial prefix, pre-lock with hammer-mounted firing pin. I have three "L" frames - 586-3 square butt "B" prefix (1992), 686-4 six-inch, and 686-4 four inch Plus model seven-shot, both with "C" prefixes (1996). All are great shooters.
I have a 629-6 and it is the smoothest, tightest and best shooting smith revolver I have had. Any date has the opportunity to get a real nice one or an average one. But…they are all good. I have had a number of “lock” guns and thousands of rounds later I have never had one fail to go bang. Other than the black dimple they are fine by me. If you find a 686 new or,used from a reputable dealer I would not worry a bit. I hav never shot a 686,I did not like��
I have one early '80 example, but aside from "no-dash" and other early guns being more desirable as a collectible, weren't there also some improvements, on the way from the no-dash to the -5? The firing pin bushing is the most obvious example, but I know there were other engineering changes that can be called improvements (?)
