686 SSR yoke falls off during speed reloads

[Nightowl]

I have been using Safariland speed loaders since they were first made. I don't even remember when they were first introduced, sometime in the 1970's, I think. Mostly in N frames, but also in my 586 I got in 1980. Since I shot PPC I didn't have to slam them, just insert until they dropped. Never had any yoke issues with either type of yoke screw. So, this is an interesting piece of information. The new yoke screw and yoke button seemed to have cured yoke endshake problem in the older guns.

 

[Geeko]

Word is a couple of the S&W sponsored shooters have had this problem with the yoke coming off during a speed reload. One of them got DNF'd from the NY State Championship because of this. The yoke does appear to be softer than the retention screw springed tip.

 

[mirkoilpirata]

I guys!
Just today today it happened the same problem whit my 686-6 SSR, during a speed reload with weak hand in IDPA CoF!!
Same suggestion?
I think that the old steel was most harder than the actual steel!
Is it true or is only my impression?
I have e 686-3 and it seems harder than 686-6.
Someone knows how may i resolve this problem?
Someone knows how was made the 686-1 or -2 yoke?
Someone have the schematic of the -1 or -2?
Thanks from southern Italy!!

 

[H Richard]

See my post above (#6). The steel in the gun is the same, it is the spring loaded yoke retention screw that is failing due to the "excessive" force you are most probably using in your speed reloads.

 

[OKFC05]

This is a familiar problem with revolvers, old and new, when excessive force, particularly "draw back and smack", is applied to the open cylinder with speedloaders. It is an operator induced failure, and no mechanical fix will prevent it from failing from excessive force.

The correct technique is to hold the cylinder firmly in the off hand with the thumb and 2 fingers through the frame and PUSH the speedloader until it releases. Then drop the speedloader. Smacking the speedloadeer wastes time and applies excessive force to the cylinder after the speedloader releases and bottoms out. It is just poor technique.

 

[mirkoilpirata]

H Richard and OKFC05, thanks for your answers!
I'll try to modify the screw seat, i still don't know how, but i 'll try!!
Working the "V" and make it like a milling flat, replacing the genuine screw whit a springless and flat one.
What do you think?
Oh, it's clear that i'll change my reload technique!!

 

[jstanfield103]

Well I just ordered two Comp ll's and was getting ready to try the Comp lll's until I read this thread. Now I believe I will stick with the 2"s.
I may try the Speed Beez instead of the 3's, the Speed Beez seems to be very well made.

 

[bpeddicord]

I had the same thing happen to my new model 64. After about 5000 rounds of 38 special factory RNL ammo, my yoke was almost falling out of the revolver. S&W replaced the yoke at no cost and returned the gun to me in 2 weeks. Probably due to hard and fast reloads with Safariland comp III speed loaders. Here's a picture of the yoke before I returned the gun to S&W for repair.

 

[bpeddicord]

Yoke screw

If this was happening due to its design, then all current S&W's would suffer this, the SSR is nothing more then a dressed up 686, hence, all 686's would have this issue, I have a SSR, and a 620, one question I would like to ask is how hard are you hitting the back of the cyclinder when you do your speedloads? This slamming the loader into the cyclinder, to me, would almost force a endshake situation, and in time the spring screw probably would start cutting the groove you mentioned, give S&W a call and see if they can convert your SSR back to the old design when they replace the crane for you.

I recently checked my new 629, my 686 + seven shot, my model 65, and a 10-11. All show signs of cutting on the yoke due to the spring loaded screw. None of these have been shot in IDPA and I have used only HKS speed loaders with these revolvers, since they are for self defense and hunting only. I have about 14 old S&W model 10s, 64s, 15s, and 19s that have the old style flat tipped screw. I have shot many of them in IPSC and IDPA for 20 years and none show signs of cutting the yoke. I believe the new design screw with the spring loaded tip is a poor design.

 

[Nightowl]

I cannot totally agree that it is a poor design. It works very well for eliminating yoke endshake under normal operating conditions. It works very well for speedloading when holding the speedloader in the right hand and the open cylinder with the left thumb and two fingers while holding the gun with the remainder of the left hand. I have had no issues with speedloading my 627-2 that way for 15 years. I agree that it was not designed or anticipated that folks would hold the gun in the right hand and slam a speedloader into the unsupported cylinder with the left hand. If the screw is not tight and a good fit, you can push the yoke right out of the gun.

For those that speedload with the left hand, find a screw that fits the threads, and fit the tip to the V in the yoke, eliminating the spring loaded screw weak point. I believe there has been some discussion on another thread here on what kind of screw is needed to make the change.

I'm not sure how the older style yoke would hold up under the left hand speed load technique as the yoke was not hardened in that area and the screw head was considerably smaller. Yoke endshake was a problem in the old system under heavy use.
By the way, I'm not dissing the technique, just as the yoke system was designed to withstand that kind of forces.

 

[S&WIowegan]

I have had this same thing happen to me while running a 625-2 in USPSA matches. The ammo is 230 gr ball in full-moon clips. I have seen it happen to another local shooter using a 625 and moonclips. We believe this can happen during a reload where excess force is applied in haste. Several factors come into play. One factor may be a slightly loose yoke screw. Another seems to be that the spring-loaded yoke screw can retract enough under stress to allow the yoke to exit the gun.

I also believe the stainless steel used in S&W revolvers is a bit too soft. The metallurgists doubtless have good reasons for using the steel they selected.

These revolvers really aren't built to take regular abuse that competitive shooters generate. Most owners will never have a problem.

 

[3rdgeargrndrr]

covered previously?