686 Trigger Journey!

[Echelon]

I have been working on my 686 trigger. It was polished and tuned by a gunsmith but now I want to put in a wolff type 1 power rib spring. I want the power rib spring to hit the primer as hard as the stock spring. I used my wheeler digital trigger gauge to measure the stock and the power rib trigger pull with the following results.

Wolff
6 lbs. 9 oz.
Stock
7 lbs. 7.4 oz.

I also measured the tension on the hammer by putting the trigger gauge on the hammer.

Wolff
2 lbs. 10 oz.
Stock
3 lbs. 3 oz.

I am not an expert and this is about as scientific as I get. My question is this.

Is there a drop in strain screw to make the power rib
Thank you strike with the same force as the stock spring or should I stay with the stock spring.
Thankyou

 

[CALREB]

Are the trigger gauge weights of 6.9 and 7.7 double action weights. If so I would expect you to suffer misfires with anything but carefully reloaded ammo using federal primers, possible some factory Federal ammo of their match type. Unless maybe you have an extended firing pin. If not, those are very heavy single action weights.

If you want it to be as heavy as the factory spring/use the factory spring. If you put a very slight bend at the top of a factory spring it feels the exact same as a "power" spring. I can't tell any difference and usually take them out of any of my guns,

 

[Echelon]

Are the trigger gauge weights of 6.9 and 7.7 double action weights. If so I would expect you to suffer misfires with anything but carefully reloaded ammo using federal primers, possible some factory Federal ammo of their match type. Unless maybe you have an extended firing pin. If not, those are very heavy single action weights.

If you want it to be as heavy as the factory spring/use the factory spring. If you put a very slight bend at the top of a factory spring it feels the exact same as a "power" spring. I can't tell any difference and usually take them out of any of my guns,

I forgot to mention I put in a 15 pound trigger return spring.

 

[Echelon]

I forgot to mention I put in a 15 pound trigger return spring.

These are double action numbers

 

[413Maxwedge]

In my 686's I have found the factory main spring with a 15# trigger return spring usually works best. I tried the Wolff type 1 "Factory Standard Power Rib" mainspring in my 686-6 and It would not fire. It fired in both my 686-5 but they felt TOO light. I didn't trust it.

I DO like it in my 386 PD scandium L frame though. No FTF and it feels great. I don't know why it would feel good in my scandium L frame but not the steel ones, but that was my experience. I also run it in my 10-7 and 66-5 (with a 15# trigger springs) and they all run great.

 

[Beju]

IME, I had to use an extended firing pin and fit an extended strain screw to my 686-6 to get it to reliably ignite hard primers (old Winchester lead free and Argentine Servicios y Aventuras) in double action. I settled on a 8.6 lb DA pull with a 15 lb rebound spring.

I got a pack of extended strain screws from Wolff Gunsprings and ground one down with a rotary tool. I periodically reinstalled it in the 686 until I got close to 8.5 lbs.

I doubt that there's a magic strain screw length or trigger pull weight; it's dependent on what primers you intend to use and tolerances between different revolvers. For example, firing pin lengths can slightly vary from one pin to another. I also don't know what your gunsmith did to improve the trigger pull. Some smiths probably just polish, some smiths may slightly reshape surfaces for ideal fitment/interaction.

I also have a 586 ND PPC gun of unknown builder/usage. I changed to the same Wolff mainspring not to lighten anything up (it already had some spring with a big arch), but because I was changing grips and the spring that was in it contacted the cross bolt on the new grips. With a 15 lb rebound spring, I also settled on an 8.5+ lb DA pull.