696-1 hammer and trigger

[copasj]

I picked up a 696-1 the other day, and from the looks of things the hammer and trigger had the finish roughly buffed off. Is my assumption correct that a standard L frame hammer and trigger can be used for a replacement? Also, what would be the best way to buff out the minor scratches etc on the stainless frame?

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[Hondo44]

I picked up a 696-1 the other day, and from the looks of things the hammer and trigger had the finish roughly buffed off. Is my assumption correct that a standard L frame hammer and trigger can be used for a replacement? Also, what would be the best way to buff out the minor scratches etc on the stainless frame?

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Yes, standard L frame hammer and trigger will work, actually any K, L or N frame trigger are the same. It can be tough touching up SS finishes because they are a brushed finish. Scotch bright pads are the best. If you polish it or buff it, you'll have shiny spots.

 

[copasj]

Here is a picture of what I am working with. Don't know if a kitchen pad will cut it.

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[Sebago Son]

"Lord What Fools These Mortals Be!...."

Looks like the previous owner "polished" that with a wire wheel while it was still on the gun!... note the damage around the edges of the hammer window...

Does the hammer push off?

 

[copasj]

No, the hammer doesn't push off. At least if what you are asking is if the hammer will fall if you wiggle it around while it is cocked. It still seems to index and lock up fine. It seems mechanically sound even though it's been abused a little.

I don't know what they used, but it makes you wonder what they were thinking, doesn't it.

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[Sebago Son]

Yes it does make you wonder... I've seen better file work on Kyber Pass Webley copies...

If the hammer can't be pushed off while cocked (over an empty chamber of course) with thumb pressure or with the smack of your palm it may be salvageable even if it is nasty looking.

Might save you a few bucks...

Good Luck Amigo!

Drew

 

[murphydog]

I think the 696-1 had MIM parts? If so, they may not interchange with the earlier forged ones but the factory may still have them in stock.

Here is a previous thread about stainless refinishing:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/178802-scotchbrite-pads-stainless-guns.html

 

[Hondo44]

Here is a picture of what I am working with. Don't know if a kitchen pad will cut it.

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That's a bigger problem than 1st described. The are only the final step to match the factory brushed finish.

However, fixing that hammer is simple and certainly not worth the expense or trouble to change it since it functions fine! I've fixed a lot worse; just takes some elbow grease and patience.

You just need to remove from the gun and start with about 400 grit paper wrapped around a new rectangular pencil eraser. Use it crosswise over the top surface of the hammer like a shoe shine brush. Pay attention to not rolling over the edges of the hammer and maintain the sharp edge factory look. When all scratches are removed, change to 800 grit paper and then the Scotchbrite pad.

You're not anywhere near central CA are you? I'd be happy to do it for you.

 

[copasj]

Nope, I'm in Washington. I agree, I don't think my description was very good. But the picture makes it look worse than it is (I think, I am no expert in this stuff).

With that said, the scratches are not bad enough to feel with the pad of my finger, but I can if I drag my fingernail across it.

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[copasj]

Decided to dredge up my old thread. I had the 696 bead blasted and the hammer and trigger cerakoted. Bead blasting took care of the frame damage for the most part. Not entirely, you can see it if you look for it. But it's a working gun, not a collectors piece.

I have already received the 44 SPC and 44 Russian brass from Midway. And I have 2 types of bullets cast up, Lee 429-200-RF and H&G #503 clone (Very similar to Lyman 429421).

Current plan is to test both bullets in the Russian cases, but just the H&G #503 in the 44 Special. I have H-Universal and N320 available, and would be happy to hear suggested loads.

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[chief38]

You might have to go from to 400 to 600 to 800 grit Emory paper to get that scratch off. If you are careful and STAY on the rear of the gun without hitting the sides, it will blend in just fine. I think (at least from your photo) that if you use scotch brite pads you'll be there all night! The Emory paper in progressively finer grits will do the job and it will go much easier.

Take some painters's tape and put it on the sides of the revolver just in case your hand slips.

AND......... wile you're at it you can polish the hammer also - it looks a bit rough. I would take it out before doing that of course.

Chief38

 

[copasj]

Check the post just above yours =p.