9 MM Reloads Getting Stuck - Jamming Slide

Filibogado

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I'm at my wits' end trying to figure why my 9mm reloads keep getting stuck when I pull the slide, and jamming the slide when I try to manually try to eject the bullet. I have a 5904 and the gun works perfectly with factory ammo. Its when I use my reloads that were done with a Lee Classic turret press. I am using 115 grain lead bullets with the red band around them. I am attaching pictures below. My bullet measurements appear to be all within specs as to overall length and diameter as shown below:

Length per Lee 1.169 mine 1.146
mouth per Lee .381 mine .361
bullet per Lee .356 mine .351

The only thing I can think of is the my bullets' head are of the bulbous type, as opposed to the tapered factory bullet shape. So will seating it deeper and making the overall length shorter resolve the problem? Am I crimping it wrong? Is my bullet seating loose?

I am attaching pictures. Note the striation mark on the bullet after I able to forcibly eject the bullet by pushing the gun's nose against the edge of the table to free the stuck slide. Is it rubbing against something on its way into the chamber? I have to use a cleaning rod to push the live bullet out of the chamber where it seems to be stuck. Why would it get stuck if the outside dimensions are all within specs?

Thanks for any help.

Fil
 

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It's probably an illusion from the photo but the case looks flared out and the bullet looks wider than the case. Can you post a link for the bullets you're using?
 
Need to seat deeper, the bullet is engaging the rifling. Try dropping the round into the barrel and see how far it goes compared to a factory round.
 
Are you sure those bullets measure .351"? They should be .355 or .356.

They appear larger as if you have bullets made for a Makarov.

That bullet is way to fat for a 9mm and is obviously getting stuck in the barrels rifling.

Seating deeper may solve the problem but reduce the powder charge if below minimum length.

Most 9mm bullets are round nose of flat nose TC.

BLM
 
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It's probably an illusion from the photo but the case looks flared out and the bullet looks wider than the case. Can you post a link for the bullets you're using?

The photo is fuzzy when blown up but I concur. The case is not crimped and the bullet appears to be too large.

BLM
 
1.169" in the max overall assembled length. You need to figure out what the max OAL is of your components, in your gun, & assemble them a few thousands shorter. Different components, different max. OAL".

If your crimped case mouth is measuring .361", you're over taper crimping them. With a .355" bullet in .020" of brass case, you should in around .375".

Just curious, what powder load are you using?
 
1) Larger images are both permitted and distinctly helpful. I would suggest sizing our images to 500 x 750 pixels before downloading them.

2) As others have suggested I believe that you may need to seat these bullets deeper in the case. It would be helpful to measure the total length of the bullet and post that length so we can compare the length of your bullet to others that members have on hand. This will allow a more detailed decision on how to approach the length issue. BTW, while manuals always state the minimum overall length what is really critical is the enclosed volume in the case. So where the front of the bullet ends up really doesn't matter, it's where the REAR of the bullet is within the case that is really critical. When you start using oddball bullets it becomes rather critical to do some length comparisons to more typical bullets so you do a better and safer job of determining the overall length. BTW, it's a real pet peeve of mine that bullet manufacturers won't post this critical bit of information.

3) The numbers that you posted for the bullet diameter & crimp diameter do not make any sense at all. If your bullets really are .351 inch in diameter they are so undersized that they'll probably fall through your barrel. In addition a crimp diameter 0.020 inch UNDER specification will probably result in a casing that doesn't headspace properly in your pistols chamber. In a way it's a good thing you have a problem with jams, because with a crimp that small you could end up with the mouth of the case PAST the headspace ledge and that is a distinctly UNSAFE condition. I would suggest that you re-measure your components and hope you find more reasonable results. Because as stated your bullets cannot be used for 9mm and your cases will possibly split when you re-size them to the correct dimension.

4) Finally, we need ALL of your data, what case, what powder, and who's handgun dies are you using. In addition you should be posting the amount of powder you plan on using and what kind of velocity you are trying to achieve.
 
1.169" in the max overall assembled length. You need to figure out what the max OAL is of your components, in your gun, & assemble them a few thousands shorter. Different components, different max. OAL".

If your crimped case mouth is measuring .361", you're over taper crimping them. With a .355" bullet in .020" of brass case, you should in around .375".

Just curious, what powder load are you using?
I'm using IMR 800X with a 4.3 grain starting load and a No. 49 Auto Disk cavity on my Auto-Disk powder measure. This is the only powder I could find after searching all of Metro DC. It is the flaky (no pun intended) type.
 
Attached are enlarged photos. I'm using a cheap Chinese electronic caliper whose readings are suspect because the thing does not even zero when you close the jaws and the watch battery door keeps sliding out. Its zero reading is "-.10 mm" or "-.26 in." Can anyone recommend a higher quality caliper, perhaps the mechanical one that looks like a C-clamp? I get everything from Amazon Prime.
 

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I agree with others you need to slowly start seating the bullet deeper, and try the plunk test until the bullet stops contacting the rifling. You can see how the lead bullet doesn't taper as much towards the meplat as the plated bullets, I sure this is where you would be experiencing feeding problems.
 
As to calipers, even the cheap dial calipers seem to be pretty accurate, from what I am hearing.

I have a set of Harbor Freight dial calipers. I have measured them against other calipers, and against known diameter items. They are within .0005. There is a thread here in the reloading section on calipers.

If your calipers are measuring 9mm cast bullets at .351, then either your calipers are wrong, or you have a really bad batch of bullets. I suspect the former. If your calipers are reading wrong, then you really don't know what your OAL is.
 
If you're going to reload, you should get some RELIABLE measuring instruments, before you hurt yourself or someone else.

You also need to read some RELOADING MANUALS, for the procedures and images of them.

Good loading and Shooting.:)
 
As noted, you need to purchase some calipers if you don't have them already. You just can't get measurements accurate enough using a tape measure.

Your bullet type is Lead Round Nose and that is the data you should be using for loading your ammunition. Lee's 2nd specifies a starting charge of 4.5 grains and lists a minimum overall length of 1.100 inch with a lead bullet. So, you are too long and likely a bit light on your planned powder charge.

I am unfamiliar with 800X or it's metering qualities but I won't use any new powder in a powder measure until it passes my personal test for consistency. Some powders do not meter well in a powder measure and powders that do not meter well MUST be hand weighed for each charge. My personal test for consistent thrown charges is quite simple, 30 consecutive throws are individually weighed and they must ALL be within 1/10 grain or less of the average of all 30 charges. If I find even one throw more that 1/10 grain away from the average that particular powder gets relegated to my Hand Weigh Only list. Note, at present the powders I have on hand that requires Hand Weighing are Unique for handgun loads and all of my rifle powders (4064 & 2495).

If you don't have a scale do NOT do any more loading until you get one, even if it's a cheap digital with a wandering zero. One budget scale I can recommend is the RCBS 502, it's easy to zero and works very well as long as you make certain the heavy poise is properly seated in the notch on the beam. I'll also warn you that your scale should be set on a specifically marked area on whatever bench you are using. Because as I've found out they are quite sensitive and no wood bench will be perfectly flat. Move the scale just a foot and you'll probably find the zero had gone off. One day I may purchase a granite surface plate specifically so I won't have to worry about dips and hollows on my loading bench throwing the scale off.

PS; don't be insulted if you think we are treating you like a newbie. Your post count is low and your issues and statements tend to fit the profile of a newbie. One thing you'll find on this forum is that we are all a bit OCD about being safe and any newbie will get some advice pertaining to safety he may or may not have heard before. If you've been loading for 40 years just consider this advice as reminders.
 
My loads didn't cycle until I went to 6-6.2 grains. I was using the same round nose lead bullet. Of course I got help from this forum !
 
I am also curious

how much you have loaded or if this is your 1st try at it

Need a slight crimp and do the Plunk test
pistol barrel/chamber cartridge plunk test - YouTube
PHOTO_14129504_182809_32661009_ap_zpsfbeb3f50.jpg


Disassemble your pistol.
Pull the Barrel out
test the factory round.. see how it seats... then start testing yours....... seating lower and lower till they seat correctly

Guys love to help... more info... better pictures.. and Lots of info


Good luck and be safe
 
You might also take a deprimed case with a slight bell and
see how far a factory bullet will enter the case, nose first.

Then do the same with the 115gr lead bullet and see what
is going on.You will see if the bullet diameter is close to
9mm specs. If under size, you will find out in a hurry.

The flare and crimp on the case is a major factor on if the
load will seat properly as well as the shape of the bullets tip.

A tapered or sharp pointed design can enter well into the
barrel throat, where the Round Nose design will come into
contact with the lands and rifling much sooner.

Hope things work out with the case O/D and the OAL seating of that bullet ........with that 800-x powder.

PS;
got one but my eyes are getting old and the lines and figures are starting to get a little blurry
even with the bifocals. Looks great in the Macro picture, though !!

eg1w01.jpg
 
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... Can anyone recommend a higher quality caliper, perhaps the mechanical one that looks like a C-clamp? I get everything from Amazon Prime.

The ones that look like "C-Clamps" are called Micrometers.

If you buy these calipers and take care of them like the precision instrument they are, you will never need anything else.

Amazon.com: Starrett 1202-6 Dial Caliper, Stainless Steel, White Face, 0-6" Range, +/-0.001" Accuracy, 0.001" Resolution: Industrial & Scientific@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21h-CnUCYxL.@@AMEPARAM@@21h-CnUCYxL
 
When my 45's did that not enough crimp.

when my 45 acp did this it was because I didn't flair the case enough before seating, it actually "pealed" some lead and made the bullet too large (at the case mouth) so the cartridge head spaced not on the case but on the lead shavings around the case mouth. slide would not go into battery. I bought a Lee factory sizing gauge and check all my reloads to it. So it probably is that the bullet is out too far and head spacing on it, but it could be what my problem was also. Another thing to try if the bullet seating doesn't work.
 

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