stevegartx
Member
I'm wanting to replace the plastic diconnector in my 910s . Does anyone know what model of gun that will work ? I have already replaced the guide rod with a metal one & sights with Trijicon night sights.
910s Disconnector
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The nylon disconnector replaced the steel one (used across the entire model line), starting back in the late 90's.
I remember being told that the plastic one did just as well as the steel one when the factory conducted extended testing, and actually performed a bit better than the steel one.
The precision of the molded plastic part means armorers no longer have to be taught to potentially resolve a "long tail" condition in the steel part, where the tail has to be CAREFULLY stoned/filed so normal function is restored. The smoothness and natural reduced friction surface of the plastic part means it runs up & down the disconnector tab in the drawbar more easily, and there may be less resistance offered to the sharp corners of the drawbar.
The downside is that it can be broken by an armorer or technician when removing & installing it, when the drawbar tail has to be moved around the drawbar's disconnector tab (which is done by using a pin punch to move the tail). Improper pressure, and or inattentiveness, can result in the tail being broken.
Other than that, it seems to run pretty well. All the new production TSW's use the same plastic disconnector.
I've not yet had to replace one that either broke or wore out, and that's starting back in the late 90's when I started seeing newer production guns that had the plastic parts. I replaced the steel ones in my own 3rd gen guns that I carried off-duty and used for training & practice. I also replaced the steel disconnector in my issued work 3rd gen gun with the plastic part.
I kept all the old steel parts, including some older "new" steel ones, for my spare/repair parts collection, but I use the plastic ones in my own guns.
Just my thoughts.
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stevegartx
Member
Ok , Then maybe thats not such a good idea . I think in this case I'll just leave well enough alone. Thanks for your information.
It's not that it's not a good idea, so much as that it's probably not something that's "needed" to "improve" your 910, in my thinking, anyway.
Yeah, a lot of use were originally knee-jerk reactionary in our response to the introduction of some plastic parts. However, they worked out okay, and sometimes even had some advantages not found in the steel parts. (Look how the idea of using a "plastic" frame for a handgun eventually worked out.
)
The nylon spring cup is another part that some folks didn't like, but it turned out that it didn't require the top edges being hand stoned to make them smoother (less likely to get caught on each spring coil during compression), either. Yes, the bottom bump can get worn from repeated grip pin removal. More so than the metal ones, but how often does the grip have to be removed, anyway? Even with annual armorer removal and inspection they'll last for a long, long time in ordinary conditions.
Sure, the metal guide rod bodies were revised and improved over the years, but that's a different part that gets more wear & tear.
Yeah, a lot of use were originally knee-jerk reactionary in our response to the introduction of some plastic parts. However, they worked out okay, and sometimes even had some advantages not found in the steel parts. (Look how the idea of using a "plastic" frame for a handgun eventually worked out.
)The nylon spring cup is another part that some folks didn't like, but it turned out that it didn't require the top edges being hand stoned to make them smoother (less likely to get caught on each spring coil during compression), either. Yes, the bottom bump can get worn from repeated grip pin removal. More so than the metal ones, but how often does the grip have to be removed, anyway? Even with annual armorer removal and inspection they'll last for a long, long time in ordinary conditions.
Sure, the metal guide rod bodies were revised and improved over the years, but that's a different part that gets more wear & tear.
