A Couple Questions?

[clance]

I have a few question that I hope that those in this forum might be able to help me with.

First question:
I inherited a Pre-29 that my dad purchased new back in 1956. The gun has several spot on it where the bluing has been worn through due to use and I would like to have the piece restored to like new condition. I contacted S&W yesterday to see if they would do a "factory restoration" but they limit the manufacture year that they would go back to, to 1960.

Is there a recongized expert that could restore this revolver and wouldn't diminish it's value?


Second question:
I found a Pre-model 10, 5 screw stubnose that I would really like to pickup for a CPL piece. I've been cruising though the internet to find out whether or not I would be able to fire +P ammo in it as I would prefer the extra thump if possible. One site stated that the post-war pieces could handle the pressures but that's the only one I've found.

Could someone enlighten me whether or not the post-war hand ejects can handle the pressures?

 

[jspick]

Others may have a different opinion but I say DO NOT refinish your dads gun. Refinishing will devalue it. The wear is from your dad and that is family history. Don't change it.

John

 

[Doc44]

Ford's Custom Gun Refinishing in Crystal River, FL could most likely restore your 44 Magnum. However, any restored or refinished revolver loses much of its appeal to collectors. I have had several 44 Magnums refinished over the years because I liked the way they looked compared to their original condition. I also knew at the time these guns would not be "collectible", but would be shooters.

Bill

 

[PMRet]

For work on your pre-29 contact Dave Chicoine, [email protected], outstanding work and great guy to deal with.

 

[H Richard]

Regarding the Pre 10 and +P ammo, I have a 4 screw "Pre 10" which shipped in 1957 just before they started model marking them. I wouldn't hesitate to put any amount of +P through it. Even if yours is a older 5 screw, I wouldn't worry about it. Unless you are planning to put many thousands of rounds a month through it. For normal practice and CCW use it should be fine. Also, the added weight of an all steel gun wil help with the recoil. The 2" K Frames I have are just as accurate at 10 yards as my 4" K Frames.

 

[murphydog]

The stated reason the factory will not refinish earlier guns is the lack of proper parts should they find a mechanical problem. The rule I've heard from the factory was nothing before model numbers were stamped (1957), but the year appears to shift somewhat.

 

[Sebago Son]

Asked and Answered.

Is there a recongized expert that could restore this revolver and wouldn't diminish it's value?

NO..........

 

[DCWilson]

Does the serial number on your Pre-10 have either a C or S prefix? If so, I would imagine it would easily handle +P ammo without disintegrating, but remember that almost any revolver fed a steady and heavy diet of hot loads will suffer stresses that can lead it to loosen up or even stretch a little.

If your snub .38 is one of those uncommon prewar guns with a six digit serial number and no letter prefix, I would resist the temptation to shoot hot stuff in it. Those guns are too valuable to shoot loose.

To my mind a Pre-10 has to be a short action postwar revolver with either a C prefix serial number or an S-series number above S990000 (approximately). Earlier guns have the long action and are a different model in my eyes.

The company has said that it is is safe to shoot +P ammo in any .38 with a model number stamped on the frame. They just use that as an easy distinguishing characteristic. Guns made a week before the model numbers started going on the frames are identical in every other respect.

 

[alaskavett]

Clance, welcome to the Forum! I would never refinish any firearm with family history. Remember your gun came to you this way because your Father used it. That aside, I have a model 57 that I have thought of having Ford's or the factory restore. Does anyone have a idea what ballpark that runs? Thanks. Kyle

 

[JSW]

NO..........

What he said. You can have it restored but you will actually be lowering the value of it.

 

[KJM]

If you are going to keep the gun, it does not matter WHAT the "value" is. You paid ZERO, so you can't decrease the value.

Do with it what will make YOU happy.

 

[Jim Watson]

There is a lot of difference between refinishing and a true restoration.
A Ford's blue will look good, but it won't look like a S&W blue.
And it WILL reduce the resale value.
And it will, to my mind reduce the heirloom value, removing the signs of use your Father put on it.

 

[clance]

Thanks all!

I've had a chance to read all of your posts and I think Mr. Watson nailed it why I shouldn't have the firearm restored. All the wear that is on it was place there by my dad use and is apart of him. So I'll probably just place it in a case along side with the 629 (no dashes) that he owned, as well as my great, great grandfather's bowie that he carried through the Civil War.

The serial number on the pre-model 10, is C 16XXX. As this one has no personal attachment and I plan on carrying it as a CCW piece I'm not concerned about the value though I'm interested in a quality job. I would like to find someone that can duplicate the bluing that was used during that time period which IMO is superior to the bluing/finish of the guns today.

 

[clance]

Regarding the Pre 10 and +P ammo, I have a 4 screw "Pre 10" which shipped in 1957 just before they started model marking them. I wouldn't hesitate to put any amount of +P through it. Even if yours is a older 5 screw, I wouldn't worry about it. Unless you are planning to put many thousands of rounds a month through it. For normal practice and CCW use it should be fine. Also, the added weight of an all steel gun wil help with the recoil. The 2" K Frames I have are just as accurate at 10 yards as my 4" K Frames.

Thanks for you the information, I don't plan on giving it a steady diet of +Ps. My habit is to practice with standard loads (.38 Spl. in this case) then run a cylinder or two with the +Ps just to see where the lot is hitting on the paper. When I change out my carry ammo I might run it through the M&P or one of my .357s. In any case I feel better knowing that I shouldn't need to worry.

 

[DCWilson]

The serial number on the pre-model 10, is C 16XXX. As this one has no personal attachment and I plan on carrying it as a CCW piece I'm not concerned about the value though I'm interested in a quality job. I would like to find someone that can duplicate the bluing that was used during that time period which IMO is superior to the bluing/finish of the guns today.

A five-digit serial number with a C prefix points to 1948. It is a short-action revolver and I would not hesitate to shoot +P ammo in it, though as I said above a steady diet of higher-pressure ammo will wear a gun out faster than standard ammo.

The postwar blue was not quite as special as the 1930s and late 1950s high-polish blue. It was actually kind of flat. You can get a high-polish finish if you want it, but it won't exactly reflect what the company was putting out in the late '40s/early '50s.