A Lube For Aluminum That WORKS!!

SweetMK

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I started to put this in the Smithing section,, then I figured here might be better.

Our home was built in 1977-1979 time-frame.

The windows, IIRC, are Anderson, wood frames in aluminum tracks.

There is aluminum on the wood window, and another aluminum track in the window opening.

The window, therefore, slides up and down, rubbing aluminum on aluminum.

We have been in this house since 1982,, and I have NEVER found a lube that will keep the windows gliding for more than a month or two.

I have tried every type of silicone spray, even stuff especially designed for RV slide-out extensions.

I have tried 3-IN-ONE oil, synthetic engine oil, WD-40 (of course) ,,,
I have tried several penetrating oils, automatic transmission fluid,,

I have tried paraffin wax, and Johnsons Wax,, (disaster!!)

I have tried Renaissance Wax.

Recently, I have tried every gun lube that I have,, EEZOX, several CLP sprays, Ballistol,,

40 years is a LONG time,, I have had plenty of tries to fix this,,
Typically, I try a "new lube" each year when I clean the windows,,

I can not believe this issue has not come up with some auto-loader handgun,,
Surely, people shoot a handgun more cycles than I open and close windows,,

The lube "failure" seems to be related to the lube evaporating,, that is about how long the windows stay easy to slide up and down,,

So,, Help me out,, what lube could I have possibly overlooked??
 
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Froglube?

froglube-clp-paste-4-oz
 
It might also be noted that window tracks are subject to airborne dust and dirt from both indoor and outdoor sources, and many lubricants that might last longer in a sealed environment will hold any small debris that hits it which also works its way into the sliding channels...Cleaning these surfaces before applying lube can extend the time intervals between applications...:rolleyes:...Ben
 
It might also be noted that window tracks are subject to airborne dust and dirt from both indoor and outdoor sources, and many lubricants that might last longer in a sealed environment will hold any small debris that hits it which also works its way into the sliding channels...Cleaning these surfaces before applying lube can extend the time intervals between applications...:rolleyes:...Ben
This ^^. As someone (almost) said, "Cleanliness is next to glideliness." True Grit isn't good for sliding surfaces.

A dry film moly lube like Loctite LB 8017 or CRC Dry Moly Film might be an option, but moly is very visible (dark gray) and can be messy.
 
I know there were uses for the oil by NASA and they bought it from the Russians or I suppose they did after whaling was disallowed by most of the rest of the world. I think my last 2- 4 ounce bottles are marked Sperm Oil. Worked good on long recoil firearms like Brownings...summer and winter. Used it for charcoal type bluing on small parts too
 
Sperm oil is used on mechanical components of nuclear weapons, I believe that may be the only legal use for sperm oil in the US these days. Watch and clock oil used to be sperm oil because it adheres well to metals and does not gum up. But it is now some synthetic. Watch and clock oil (the new kind) is also a superb gun oil, and that is what I use. I used to repair clocks and have a good supply of it.
 
Looking at info on whale oil,, it appears the extreme pressure capabilities of the oil are only exhibited when the oil has sulfur in it.

90WT gear oil has sulfur in it,, rear end gears operate under extreme pressure,,

Hmmmmm,, I might try synthetic gear oil that has sulfur,,

I can't use much,, the sulfur smell is not too appealing,,,:eek:
 
I have tried white lithium,, it does not last.
I have sort of avoided "greases",, hoping to avoid a mess on the window frame.

I have graphite, that has not been tried,,
I also have moly grease,, that is good grease,, but MESSY!!
 

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