A Lube For Aluminum That WORKS!!

[Fishinfool]

I would contact Anderson (still in business), and ask someone in their service department what they recommend. My own first inclination would be a bag of Q-Tips, and some Wilson 1911 slide grease, sparingly applied to the tracks mating surfaces.

Larry

 

[Narragansett]

I suspect that your problem is aluminum oxidation. You might try Ideal Noalox. This can be had at an electrical supply house, or on Amazon. This is an oxidation inhibitor used on electrical connections. It is thick and messy. I do not know about its' lubrication qualities, but it is slick. I say Ideal Noalox, because other such compounds have an abrasive component such as Burndy Penetrox

 

[venomballistics]

Teflon Silver | All Powder Paints(R)

I'll park this here just in case you can figure out how to use this.
It'll require disassembly, coating, and baking ... A rather involved process.
Once done, it's not going anywhere and will take all the abuse instead of the aluminum.
I've used it on a 1911's frame rails and slide and ran the gun dry.
it resulted in a lube free EDC.
If it can take THAT, it'll solve your problem if you can use it.

 

[Racer X]

boron nitride powder, burnished into the aluminum? option B might be grey label Liquid Wrench dry lube. PTFE and boron nitride, which is white powder, aka white graphite.

 

[SweetMK]

I would contact Anderson (still in business), and ask someone in their service department what they recommend. My own first inclination would be a bag of Q-Tips, and some Wilson 1911 slide grease, sparingly applied to the tracks mating surfaces.

Larry

Well, heck, I Googled "how to lubricate Anderson Windows"

and their reply popped right up.

"Remove grease or debris with a soft, dry cloth, then lubricate moving parts with a dry silicone spray. Lubricants or harsh abrasive cleaners are not recommended. Wipe down the hardware/component using water, a small amount of soap and a clean, dry cloth to remove any dust or debris.

To lubricate hardware or other moving components including window and patio door lock mechanisms, we recommend using a dry lubricant spray.

Please follow the manufacturer's instructions for use. Dry lubricant spray may be ordered through the Andersen WindowCare® Solution Center, the Andersen® Online Parts Store, or your local hardware store.

To avoid damage to your Andersen® product, it is important to use a dry lubricant that does not contain acetone. "

I am positive that I have tried dry lube before..

 

[SweetMK]

I suspect that your problem is aluminum oxidation.

That makes sense,, two identical metals rubbing each other is an incredibly incorrect design.
(A better design is something hard rubbing against something soft)

When two identical metals rub, the metal is subject to spalling,,

Spall - Wikipedia

In my case, the aluminum is simply that,, uncoated aluminum.
The aluminum oxidizes (normal for aluminum,,,) then the two oxidized aluminum surfaces are rubbed against each other.

I would equate it to rubbing sandpaper against sandpaper.

It is aluminum oxide against aluminum oxide.
I am sure this is my situation, after a few openings, there is a black coating on the tracks,
ground up aluminum oxide.

The "black" has always been there,, maybe the electrical oxide inhibitor may be the answer,,
but, again, every one of those electrical oxide inhibitors that I have seen is not very "contact friendly" ,,
in other words, you do not want to touch the stuff without rubber gloves,, it is nasty.

The aluminum oxide makes great sandpaper, we all have some,,
hmmmm,, maybe the aluminum oxide is the cause of failure for the lubes that I have tried,,

Lube mixed with aluminum oxide makes a GREAT abrasive!!,,

 

[glenwolde]

Try Fluid Film. It has a lanolin base.

 

[Paul in Nevada]

Sounds like it's time for new windows.
Aluminum windows either have plastic glides or they rely on the slick anodized surfaces of the metal itself. By now the surface treatment has worn away and the metal is embedded with grit. Applying any type of lube will just attract dust and expose you to chemical fumes.
40 years is well beyond the service life of those windows.