My grandson bought a used model 1200 Winchester. He gave it to Grandma when she was in town and wanted me to fix it. I can't find a thing wrong with it, shoots great. However the butt pad is hard as a rock due to age. I want to put a Limbsaver on it but the ones in the store are in plastic covers that I can't open to measure the size. The Limbsaver website wants one to print off their sizing chart, but I don't have a printer. Is there a chart somewhere that I can use to find the correct size? I don't mind the grinding to fit an oversize pad.
A shotgun question
- Thread starter Igiveup
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
mckenney99
Member
Limbsaver pads are a bit gummy to grind, it can be done but you have to go very slowly to keep from building up heat and gumming up the pad and the sanding belt or disc. KickEez pads grind a little more smoothly. Both makers should give you the dimensions on the different sized pads.
Kp321
Member
+1 on freezing the pad. Also use a new sanding pad/belt. The new sharp grit cuts cleanly without gumming.
germansheperd
Member
My son and I rebuilt an old 1957 Wingmaster just for the woods. Mostly all new guts, springs, and an almost like new old style bolt and chrome shell lifter. Nothing to look at but for the purpose of climbing hill, going through brush, and trees/branches.
I just put on the slip-on Limbsaver cuff.
I just put on the slip-on Limbsaver cuff.
Attachments
Bladeswitcher
Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2007
- Messages
- 298
- Reaction score
- 751
Want some unsolicited advice?
Pick out your pad and have an old-school professional gunsmith install it. Don't do it yourself.
I say that as somebody who owns a shotgun pad grinding jig, and has a bench-top disc grinder in his shop that's used primarily for grinding pads. I've done close to a dozen pads for my own guns and have got to the point where I can do a pretty decent job. There's definitely a learning curve. When faced with a really important pad job, I turn it over to my local gunsmith.
It might cost you $40 in labor to have pro do it. It's money well spent.
Pick out your pad and have an old-school professional gunsmith install it. Don't do it yourself.
I say that as somebody who owns a shotgun pad grinding jig, and has a bench-top disc grinder in his shop that's used primarily for grinding pads. I've done close to a dozen pads for my own guns and have got to the point where I can do a pretty decent job. There's definitely a learning curve. When faced with a really important pad job, I turn it over to my local gunsmith.
It might cost you $40 in labor to have pro do it. It's money well spent.
Keep the pad coated with Armoral when grinding it. Especially the final hand sanding with sanding block.
Last edited:
OP
I appreciate all the replies. I think what I really need is to know the size of the Limbsaver pad to purchase. The pads cost $39.95 in two different stores in the town and they are packaged in a manner I can't determine the size in the package. The few choices in the store list some of the models each fit, but not the Winchester 1200 is listed on the small selection. The only gunsmith here is part time two days a week, but maybe I should just take the gun to him and let him worry about the size. I use a slip-on on one of my rifles, works good, but for the shotgun I would like a permanent solution.
From the website, "Need help? Give us a call. 360-427-6031"
Bladeswitcher
Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2007
- Messages
- 298
- Reaction score
- 751
Typically, for a grind-to-fit pad, you want it bigger than the heel of the gun (big enough to accommodate the slope/angle). It's hard to grind a too-small pad big enough to fit.
ETA: the pre-made custom fit pads generally don't (fit, that is).
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2008
- Messages
- 952
- Reaction score
- 886
Let the gunsmith tell you which one to get, assuming he does not stock them himself. There is a steel insert in there that won't look right if it's ground down to exposing it.
Again, let the old time smith, likely a shotgun specialist, do the install. Really messy job and difficult for the first timer.
Again, let the old time smith, likely a shotgun specialist, do the install. Really messy job and difficult for the first timer.
scooter123
Member
Kevin if you use the Limbsaver Web Store you will be able to purchase a pad specific to your model 1200. This means there won't be any need for fitting or slotting screw holes that just miss lining up with the holes in the stock. It is how I got the pad for my Beretta 686 Sporting which features a larger pad surface than that for the 686 Field (Field is what you'll find in the stores if they have Beretta pads).
BTW, if anyone has a contact at Limbsaver put in a serious suggestion that they offer their pads with a leather surface option. I had to shorten the reach on my 686 last winter due to having to dress like a snowmobiler to shoot skeet and I've been spoiled by the Leather faced pad I purchased. The Limbsaver is now just too darned tacky and Armorall does nothing to improve that. At some point I expect that I'll purchase a Pachmayr pad just because these pads do slick up with Armorall, have one on my Browning Citori and it's nearly a match to leather.
Actually after thinking about it I would suggest that you get on the Packmayr web store and get your pad from them, because Limbsaver's are just too tacky and that really slows down mounting the shotgun. Granted the Pachmayer isn't as cushy as a Limbsaver but there really isn't than much of a difference in what you feel when shooting.
BTW, if anyone has a contact at Limbsaver put in a serious suggestion that they offer their pads with a leather surface option. I had to shorten the reach on my 686 last winter due to having to dress like a snowmobiler to shoot skeet and I've been spoiled by the Leather faced pad I purchased. The Limbsaver is now just too darned tacky and Armorall does nothing to improve that. At some point I expect that I'll purchase a Pachmayr pad just because these pads do slick up with Armorall, have one on my Browning Citori and it's nearly a match to leather.
Actually after thinking about it I would suggest that you get on the Packmayr web store and get your pad from them, because Limbsaver's are just too tacky and that really slows down mounting the shotgun. Granted the Pachmayer isn't as cushy as a Limbsaver but there really isn't than much of a difference in what you feel when shooting.
You'll never get an off the shelf pad that fit's perfectly.
You can't grind a pad to fit and make it a perfect wood-to-pad fit w/o grinding them both as one. Which means overlapping the work and then you are into refinishing the wood as well.
You can get awfully close as far as matching up the pad with the wood, but the really nice look is gotten from the sanding/grinding of the two components as one.
It all depends on what final look you are after.
One of the biggest faults people do in fitting a pad is rounding the 'toe' of the pad over as has already been mentioned.
The toe line / bottom line of the stock should continue right down the pad as well. No change of angle.
Also take time to make sure the plain wood butt and the back of the pad are truely flat and square before planting them into position.
Often stocks are flat, but eyeball or check with a straight edge from the top and you'll find the flat is canted one way or the other.
Pads often need a flat sanding to make then truely flat before install
Those squishy soft pads like LimbSaver are OK but are more difficult to shape because of the forgiveness of the material. You push it away from the belt grinder when shaping it, then it returns as a high spot.
Freezing them helps a lot as does using a brand new sharp belt.
I recommend a rather rough cut belt as well like a 180grit. They cut quick and cooler than the fine grit.
Matr'l is removed w/o as much pressure needed so the pad doesn't heat up on you or move around.
You can finish it up with a finer cut for looks with a few light swipes across the surface.
A plain old waffle pattern or bridge pattern opening pad will likely give you all the recoil relief you need and they are much easier to work with.
They are avail in non-white line as well. Red, black and brown.
Screw holes don't often line up. If you can use one, use it and plug the other. I usually drill 1/4" or 5/16" and plug with an ordinary dowel and white glue.
Face it off and mark new screw hole thru the pad. Drill a pilot hole. Thread the screw in first w/o the pad in place to get the wood threaded to the screw.
Then install the pad.
One or both old screw holes can be plugged and redrilled. I've worked on some guns where there are 6 and more old plate and pad holes under the existing butt pad.
Once the pad is in place and you are satisfied with the fit (check around the edges for a nice tight fit.
Then decide wether want to mark the edge of the wood onto the overhanging back side pf the pad & remove it to grind/belt sand the excess off.
Or grind/belt sand it right while it's on the stock sanding the pad and stock as one. This will require wood refinishing.
Which ever, keep that toe line correct AND also the sides & top of the pad in straight lines coming off of the wood and onto the pad.
This latter point is often difficult w/o grinding the wood as well as most factory stocks are not shaped to straight lines along the sides. They are kind of bow shaped with a high spot in the middle of the stock and then the line tapers towards the butt plate, instead of the entire line being straight to begin with.
You can make your pad straight sided, and then it's looks kind of strange when in place against the wood which abuts it coming in at a slight slope.
Some guns are worse than others of course in that unwanted feature. Most people never notice it.
You can't grind a pad to fit and make it a perfect wood-to-pad fit w/o grinding them both as one. Which means overlapping the work and then you are into refinishing the wood as well.
You can get awfully close as far as matching up the pad with the wood, but the really nice look is gotten from the sanding/grinding of the two components as one.
It all depends on what final look you are after.
One of the biggest faults people do in fitting a pad is rounding the 'toe' of the pad over as has already been mentioned.
The toe line / bottom line of the stock should continue right down the pad as well. No change of angle.
Also take time to make sure the plain wood butt and the back of the pad are truely flat and square before planting them into position.
Often stocks are flat, but eyeball or check with a straight edge from the top and you'll find the flat is canted one way or the other.
Pads often need a flat sanding to make then truely flat before install
Those squishy soft pads like LimbSaver are OK but are more difficult to shape because of the forgiveness of the material. You push it away from the belt grinder when shaping it, then it returns as a high spot.
Freezing them helps a lot as does using a brand new sharp belt.
I recommend a rather rough cut belt as well like a 180grit. They cut quick and cooler than the fine grit.
Matr'l is removed w/o as much pressure needed so the pad doesn't heat up on you or move around.
You can finish it up with a finer cut for looks with a few light swipes across the surface.
A plain old waffle pattern or bridge pattern opening pad will likely give you all the recoil relief you need and they are much easier to work with.
They are avail in non-white line as well. Red, black and brown.
Screw holes don't often line up. If you can use one, use it and plug the other. I usually drill 1/4" or 5/16" and plug with an ordinary dowel and white glue.
Face it off and mark new screw hole thru the pad. Drill a pilot hole. Thread the screw in first w/o the pad in place to get the wood threaded to the screw.
Then install the pad.
One or both old screw holes can be plugged and redrilled. I've worked on some guns where there are 6 and more old plate and pad holes under the existing butt pad.
Once the pad is in place and you are satisfied with the fit (check around the edges for a nice tight fit.
Then decide wether want to mark the edge of the wood onto the overhanging back side pf the pad & remove it to grind/belt sand the excess off.
Or grind/belt sand it right while it's on the stock sanding the pad and stock as one. This will require wood refinishing.
Which ever, keep that toe line correct AND also the sides & top of the pad in straight lines coming off of the wood and onto the pad.
This latter point is often difficult w/o grinding the wood as well as most factory stocks are not shaped to straight lines along the sides. They are kind of bow shaped with a high spot in the middle of the stock and then the line tapers towards the butt plate, instead of the entire line being straight to begin with.
You can make your pad straight sided, and then it's looks kind of strange when in place against the wood which abuts it coming in at a slight slope.
Some guns are worse than others of course in that unwanted feature. Most people never notice it.
dfariswheel
Member
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
- Messages
- 1,488
- Reaction score
- 1,095
Limbsaver has a fitting chart on their site.
These are scaled drawings of the exact size that are printed out to compare to the butt of the stock.
With this you can get a very close fit.
Which Recoil Pad? – LimbSaver Online Store
These are scaled drawings of the exact size that are printed out to compare to the butt of the stock.
With this you can get a very close fit.
Which Recoil Pad? – LimbSaver Online Store
Baltimoreed11754
Member
How about a lace on or velcro on pad? I have lace on's on my cas sg's.
Well there are those that can do it at home ot those that just take it to the gunsmith.........
either way it will get on the shotgun but it is wise to pick the right pad for the job
be it solid or a waffle pattern.............
plus you might need to "Cant" the pad for a better fit for the shooter, instead of just grinding off the outside material.
Get er done.
either way it will get on the shotgun but it is wise to pick the right pad for the job
be it solid or a waffle pattern.............
plus you might need to "Cant" the pad for a better fit for the shooter, instead of just grinding off the outside material.
Get er done.
ancient-one
US Veteran
Maybe he was like me. I bought,at a pawn shop, a really slick 1200, 20ga with I think a 24 inch barrel. I had never owned a pump shotgun that the action unlocked after it fired. I didn't have the paperwork for it and assumed something was wrong. The owner didn't know anymore than I did, fired it out behind his shop, came in and said you are right and refunded my money.
A couple of weeks later I was messing around and found one just like it for a lot more money. In the description it listed the action unlocking as a feature. I was really disgusted with me.
OP
lihpster is the winner! I called the phone number he supplied, talked to a nice lady, she asked questions about the gun and then gave me a stock number for the Model 1200. She said to go to Sportsman's Warehouse or similar store and order what I need. The store is cheaper than ordering from the manufacturer she said. Thanks All.
Last edited:
Awesome! Glad it worked.
Similar threads
