Acceptable flashgap clearance

HogBob

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Unlike most posters here, I'm not very knowledgeable about revolvers since I own only two. One is a Model 686-1 with 6 inch barrel and the other is a Model 66-2 with 4 inch barrel. The Model 66 is reasonably accurate (when fired from a pistol rest) but the Model 686 has been erratic since the day I purchased it new. The clearance between the forcing cone and cylinder face as the cylinder rotates is as follows for the Model66:
1 = .007 inch
2 = .006 "
3 = .006 " "
4 = .007 "
5 = .008 "
6 = .007 "

For the Model 686:
1= .006 inch
2 = .007 "
3 = .0075 "
4 = .006 "
5 = .0055 "
6 = .0055 "

When I had the "gunsmith" at the dealer where I bought the 686 check the variation in the gaps, he noted that the they were within "factory specs" and timing was perfect and the revolver was returned by the sales clerk with a bill for $20. I never had an opportunity to discuss with the gunsmith why it was so inaccurate when compared to the shorter barrel Model 66. Does anyone have any information concerning whether the variations in clearances noted above are normal or why one model is so much less accurate than the other?
 
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Welcome from Ohio. This is the new member introduction area. Ask your question in the revolver or smithing section and you should get answers.
 
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I can understand your surprise and the "gunsmith" did not earn that $20 fee, in my opinion.

He/she should also have checked the throat sizes on each of your cylinder bores and the bore of the barrel. As I understand it (and I could be wrong) the throats could be swagging your bullets as they pass through making them a less than optimal fit for the bore of the barrel. Or, the barrel itself may not be the optimal size.

Warning: I first read about this possible issue here on the forum and am easily convinced by a reasonable sounding discussion, so there is ample room for error. :o
 
Howdy from Ohio...good to have you in the house! Ditto what CIsland said.
 
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Welcome aboard from the great state of Pennsylvania!
 
A big THANK You for all your welcome replies. This was first time to post on this forum and I mistakenly put in the wrong place. I don't know if it can be moved to the Gunsmith thread or if I can remove it and retype it in the proper place. Thanks again for your welcomes and replies.
 
Hey, HogBob!

It would probably be easiest to copy the text from your existing message and paste it into a new message in the S&W Smithing section S&W-Smithing

If you do that, your original message will still be here for us to express our "Welcome to the Forum". ;)
 
Welcome to the forum.

There could be a number of reasons for the 686 not shooting accurately. Hard to tell without seeing the revolver. The cylinder gap is not the likely culprit. The specs look OK to me. I would try some different ammo.

You might have the alignment checked with a range rod. Any gunsmith should have one. This will show if the cylinder is aligned properly. If you get some "spitting" from the cylinder, this could be the problem.

When you took the revolver to the gunsmith, what did you ask him to do? Did you ask about accuracy?
 
IronHead -- At the time I brought it in for inspection, I remarked about the variation in flashgap clearances and the poor accuracy of the revolver since I bought it new. At that time, I got the impression that they figured I was a newbie PITA and kind of blew me off with a quick look at the gun and a $20 fee. I never went back to that dealer again and bought a subsequent Model 66 from another dealer with which I have been quite satisfied.
 
Welcome from Texas HogBob. Great forum for all things S&W, have fun, learn lots, share what you know.
 

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