Action Job on a 686 w/3" barrel

tominphx

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What actual issues are addressed in doing an "action job".

Thx in advance, Tom
 
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There's different definitions depending on what the gun needs, how light and slick do you want, and what's your budget. I've put many spring kits in guns and thats all I've ever really needed once it gets shot a lot and those kits just take few minutes and are under 20 bucks. Other people will stone the surfaces of the moving parts and one can spend over $200 for a good job.
 
Jerry Miculek has an excellent video called "Trigger Job" that goes into some depth on what to stone and how to do it. It is a great starting point to learn the basics and then study the revolvers action and see what you can do. I have spent hours staring at the way the parts interface in a S&W revolver and over time have developed my own techniques for smoothing out the double action pull. There is some interesting information in the stickies on this forum also. It really comes down to a bit of common sense if you are used to working with things mechanical. If you are not, find a good revolver smith.

Stu
 
My standard action job involves polishing all the contact points that create friction in the action. Rebound slide, trigger, hammer and cylinder stop surfaces, etc. Choosing the right rebound spring is crucial to the press as well as the return. There’s no free lunch, it’s a give and take. The mainspring gets swapped out depending on the use case of the revolver and its age. Frame mounted firing pins on the newer guns allow for lighter springs but must have an extended firing pin…again, no free lunch.
 
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