....I have a 4 part question.....What gunsmithing service provides the finest acion work on S&W revolvers? Has anyone had experience with the shop of Teddy Jacobson in *********. Texas? Is there an internet data base for S&W serial numbers showing year of manufacture? What does "No dash" mean?........Thanks
Action Job
- Thread starter eb641
- Start date
gerald mcdonald
Member
Jacobson does good work. He can be a little on the arrogant side but his work is good, so good he will pretty much tell you that nobody does it as well as him.
Hi from France !
No Internet data base as far as I know, but the "Standard Catalog of S&W" by Jim Supica would help a lot. It is my "bible"
No dash means that the gun's version is the first one producted. For example, a S&W 29-1 is the second version of the S&W 29 "no dash", and so on.
No Internet data base as far as I know, but the "Standard Catalog of S&W" by Jim Supica would help a lot. It is my "bible"
No dash means that the gun's version is the first one producted. For example, a S&W 29-1 is the second version of the S&W 29 "no dash", and so on.
1 old 0311
Member
Jacobson does have a good reputation as a gunsmith BUT a few years ago he was on the NAA site and expressed his feelings about anyone who isn't a WASP. I am not a minority but I have no room for anyone who feels superior to others because of their color, or where they were born.
If I remember correctly he was thrown off the site.
Can't attest to "the finest" action work, as I don't have others to compare to, but I have had Matt Almeda at Revolver Armorer (Revolver Armorer) inspect and work on multiple S&Ws for me. He did a great job of bringing a M19 cylinder gap back into spec; it shoots as well as I can manage. Matt's done several jobs on other Smiths for me; I'd send him any of my weapons for work, and he and Gwen are good folks. HTH.
Last edited:
photoman
Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2000
- Messages
- 5,072
- Reaction score
- 1,967
- City & State/Province
- The Great State of Texas
Last I heard, he had decided not to work anymore but I just checked his website and looks like he's taking work so...
I do remember reading some of his blog stuff and not being real impressed by his opinions regard some issues. I'm sure he doesn't care one hoot about my opinion.
I do remember reading some of his blog stuff and not being real impressed by his opinions regard some issues. I'm sure he doesn't care one hoot about my opinion.
scooter123
Member
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2009
- Messages
- 6,959
- Reaction score
- 4,399
- City & State/Province
- Metro Detroit, Michigan
Since it hasn't been pointed out at this time, I'll tell you that it's not at all difficult to do your own action job. All you need is a selection of rebound and main springs, the special tool for installing the spring in the rebound slide, some stones, and the S&W revolver shop manual. All of which are available from Brownells. BTW, make sure to get that tool for the rebound spring, I cannot concieve of any way to install the rebound spring without that tool.
Read the manual at least twice before starting and the most difficult task will be to get the sideplate started back into it's nest, which takes a bit of experimentation the first time you do it because it requires learning the "feel" of how to do it smoothly. It probably took me 30 to 40 minutes to get the sideplate back on my model 67 the first time, now I can nest one in in under a minute.
BTW, the newer MIM guns incorporate features that used to have to be added during an action job, so basically there is nothing more required than replacing the rebound spring and perhaps smoothing the DA sear on the trigger. However, if the gun has seen 500 or more DA trigger strokes the DA sear won't need any smoothing at all, they seem to be self polishing. I also found no need to smooth the surface of the rebound slide since it was quite smooth as it came from the factory.
BTW, the rebound spring can have a big effect on the SA trigger pull in addition to the DA pull weight. I have a 12 lbs. rebound spring installed in my 617 and it breaks at a bit under 2 lbs., which is light enough that it requires complete attention to the trigger finger at all times when it's cocked. I also found that while the 12 lbs. spring functions perfectly in my 617, that same spring will have issues with the trigger reset in my 10mm 610. I would recomend a 14 lbs. rebound spring for the first choice, it will produce about a 3 lbs. break on the SA sear, works well in double action without any reset issues, and reduces the DA pull to about 8 1/2 lbs.
There are also reduced power mainsprings available. However, the selection is somewhat limited and most of the lighter mainsprings come with the notice that they will only function properly with Federal primers. Another option for reducing the mainspring power is by backing out the strain screw. However, doing this can also cause issues with weak primer strikes and failures to fire. In addition, any strain screw that isn't fully seated will tend to back itself out over time. Because I am not a fan of making adjustments that cannot be undone, I am not a proponent of filing the strain screw. I prefer to fabricate shim washers to fit under the head of the strain screw from standard shim stock. With a small sheet of 0.005 inch shim stock, and an investment of some time, it's a simple matter to make up a batch of shims that will allow the strain screw to be backed out in 0.005 inch increments while maintaining a fully seated strain screw. This allows tweaking the strain screw in staged increments so that you can find a postion that permits the lightest DA pull while maintaining reliable ignition with most commercial primers.
Now, one final note. As previously mentioned, installing a lighter rebound spring will reduce the SA trigger pull my a noticable ammount. It you decide to install a lighter mainspring, or reduce the tension on the standard mainspring, you'll have to experiment a bit with the rebound spring weight in order to get a SA trigger pull that is a weight at which you are comfortable with. I suspect that with a reduced power mainspring and a light rebound spring that it's possible to get the SA pull down to the range of 1 lbs. or possibly less. I would not consider that to be safe even if it doesn't show any pushoff. So part of doing an action tuning for the lightest reliable DA pull weight will require experimenting with the balance between the rebound spring and the mainspring tension. So, if you want to do your own action tuning, get a selection set of the rebound springs. I'll also tell you that the K, L, N, and X frame are very easy to work on and one advantage to doing the work yourself is that you can undo anything that produces an issue you don't like, such as a super light SA pull or dependence on one particular brand of primers.
Read the manual at least twice before starting and the most difficult task will be to get the sideplate started back into it's nest, which takes a bit of experimentation the first time you do it because it requires learning the "feel" of how to do it smoothly. It probably took me 30 to 40 minutes to get the sideplate back on my model 67 the first time, now I can nest one in in under a minute.
BTW, the newer MIM guns incorporate features that used to have to be added during an action job, so basically there is nothing more required than replacing the rebound spring and perhaps smoothing the DA sear on the trigger. However, if the gun has seen 500 or more DA trigger strokes the DA sear won't need any smoothing at all, they seem to be self polishing. I also found no need to smooth the surface of the rebound slide since it was quite smooth as it came from the factory.
BTW, the rebound spring can have a big effect on the SA trigger pull in addition to the DA pull weight. I have a 12 lbs. rebound spring installed in my 617 and it breaks at a bit under 2 lbs., which is light enough that it requires complete attention to the trigger finger at all times when it's cocked. I also found that while the 12 lbs. spring functions perfectly in my 617, that same spring will have issues with the trigger reset in my 10mm 610. I would recomend a 14 lbs. rebound spring for the first choice, it will produce about a 3 lbs. break on the SA sear, works well in double action without any reset issues, and reduces the DA pull to about 8 1/2 lbs.
There are also reduced power mainsprings available. However, the selection is somewhat limited and most of the lighter mainsprings come with the notice that they will only function properly with Federal primers. Another option for reducing the mainspring power is by backing out the strain screw. However, doing this can also cause issues with weak primer strikes and failures to fire. In addition, any strain screw that isn't fully seated will tend to back itself out over time. Because I am not a fan of making adjustments that cannot be undone, I am not a proponent of filing the strain screw. I prefer to fabricate shim washers to fit under the head of the strain screw from standard shim stock. With a small sheet of 0.005 inch shim stock, and an investment of some time, it's a simple matter to make up a batch of shims that will allow the strain screw to be backed out in 0.005 inch increments while maintaining a fully seated strain screw. This allows tweaking the strain screw in staged increments so that you can find a postion that permits the lightest DA pull while maintaining reliable ignition with most commercial primers.
Now, one final note. As previously mentioned, installing a lighter rebound spring will reduce the SA trigger pull my a noticable ammount. It you decide to install a lighter mainspring, or reduce the tension on the standard mainspring, you'll have to experiment a bit with the rebound spring weight in order to get a SA trigger pull that is a weight at which you are comfortable with. I suspect that with a reduced power mainspring and a light rebound spring that it's possible to get the SA pull down to the range of 1 lbs. or possibly less. I would not consider that to be safe even if it doesn't show any pushoff. So part of doing an action tuning for the lightest reliable DA pull weight will require experimenting with the balance between the rebound spring and the mainspring tension. So, if you want to do your own action tuning, get a selection set of the rebound springs. I'll also tell you that the K, L, N, and X frame are very easy to work on and one advantage to doing the work yourself is that you can undo anything that produces an issue you don't like, such as a super light SA pull or dependence on one particular brand of primers.
Too bad you don't live in So. Central Wis. I'd turn you on to my LGS.
TACC1
TACC1
firearmsunlimited
Member
One of the best S&W pistol smiths in the country (IMHO) is Frank Glenn. He was rated in the top 10 master gun smiths by Guns and Ammo and Handgunner. He specializes in S&W wheel guns and 1911's. He does work for Enos and Leatham. Frank won the 1992 and 1997 Masters. He does complete conversions for most of the Action Shooting games such as N.R.A. Action (Bianchi Cup), PPC, IDPA, IPSC, USPSA, Masters, etc. Frank does all the machine and action work. You can find him listed under Glenn Custom.
Big Cholla
Member
IMHO, you can't beat "Cylinder and Slide". ......... Big Cholla
gerald mcdonald
Member
I had a talk with him a few years ago about a trigger job. I had felt one of his action jobs and it did feel very good. I knew his reputation going in and a couple minutes into the conversation I was thinking, he's nothing like his rep. Then something must have triggered him and within a minute or two I had heard enough. Too many good smiths to put up with swollen egos. I ended up using Dave Berryhill and was very impressed with his work (1911's only now days). He gave me a 5# break that feels like a lot less.
Teddy Jacobson is opinionated and very vocal about his points of view, but his work is very, very good.
He does the work himself. He doesn't pay someone $8 an hour to do the work on the firearms he takes in.
I keep intending to send a gun to him but it makes the gun a safe queen. The guns with his work that I have handled were taken out of the safe, then put back in after we were finished looking at them. The owner wasn't particularly interested in shooting them because he thinks the T in the shield brings a lot of value to the guns.
He does the work himself. He doesn't pay someone $8 an hour to do the work on the firearms he takes in.
I keep intending to send a gun to him but it makes the gun a safe queen. The guns with his work that I have handled were taken out of the safe, then put back in after we were finished looking at them. The owner wasn't particularly interested in shooting them because he thinks the T in the shield brings a lot of value to the guns.
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2010
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
T in shield
Could you explain the "t in the shield" part.
Thanks
Could you explain the "t in the shield" part.
Thanks
DON1937
Member
If you replace the rebound spring dry fire the gun several times to be sure that the trigger resets. I've had the rebound springs in and out several times trying to get the lightest one that will work. I don't have the "rebound spring tool" but I've never had a problem getting the spring out and back in using a plain screwdriver.
photoman
Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2000
- Messages
- 5,072
- Reaction score
- 1,967
- City & State/Province
- The Great State of Texas
Reduced power rebound springs will greatly effect your followup shot speed.
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2005
- Messages
- 8,074
- Reaction score
- 7,260
No one knows action jobs on S&W better than S&W. Get your work done by them. Ask for duty action. It will be very smooth, lighter than when it left the factory, but with no failures to fire. Very reliable and very nice.
gerald mcdonald
Member
I wouldnt expect it to increase in value any, he does good work from the ones I've handled but no better than many others who I have also handled. His name isnt up on the same plain as Laughridge and Bowen and others when it comes to increasing value.
Teddy Jacobson acid etches the barrel of the gun with a shield and a T in the middle of the shield.
According to some people I have talked to it is their opinion his work will be worth a lot more after his death.
But that is opinion and not yet proven.
Last edited:
